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IndustryArena Forum > Mechanical Engineering > Epoxy Granite > Epoxy Granite How-To Video
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    23

    Epoxy Granite How-To Video

    Love all the builds on this forum! Recently made a video going over my process to make an epoxy granite machine base, check it out:



    I built an aluminum skeleton into the frame to help increase the stiffness of the unit. Took a few tries to get everything right, but I really like the way it turned out.

  2. #2

    Re: Epoxy Granite How-To Video

    Great video! Thanks for sharing.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    23

    Re: Epoxy Granite How-To Video

    Thanks, It was a fun build!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    120

    Re: Epoxy Granite How-To Video

    That was really informative. Thanks for all of your work putting it together!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    927

    Re: Epoxy Granite How-To Video

    Just a few things to add on epoxy granite. I have a lot of experience with epoxy and composites from my day job....

    First, on the mold release, epoxy will not cure properly next to that mirror wax. That is one of the reasons for the poor surface finish in the video (with all the air bubbles). Adding a few layers of purple PVA mold release between the wax and the epoxy will solve the issue.

    The other reason for those air bubbles is the way it was mixed. Those hand drill rotary mixers cause tons of bubbles like when you beat an egg. The resin should be gently mixed first (including any resin coloring) before mixing it with the sand and gravel (to make sure it is mixed properly). Any remaining air bubbles can be removed under vacuum at that point.

    If you mix the resin and sand by hand (in small batches) and with heavy duty vinyl gloves, you can avoid mixing in additional bubbles. You can also feel the texture so you can make it as you want it. I like to add the resin slowly until it turns into a clay-like consistency.

    You can't stick to rigid percentages of each ingredient, There are too many variables between resins and rocks. If it is too thick, add more resin. Too thin then add more sand.

    You don't have to fill the mold in one go. It is actually better if you don't . As long as you don't leave more than a day or so between batches , it will all chemically bond together as if it was done in one batch. Curing too much resin at once is a recipe for excess heat which leads to bubbles.

    On the mix, Home Depot sells premixed bags of sand, gravel and granite in the cement section. It was around $5 for a 50lb bag and it works perfectly for epoxy granite.

    Regular room temp cure epoxy is not massively stable in high temperatures. It can become soft if left in the car on a hot day. Mixing it with sand /gravel helps a little but the best approach is to heat cure the resin or post cure. You can do this as a diy job by building a make-shift oven around your mold using sheet metal. You can then heat it with a plug in heat element from a BBQ smoker ($50 on ebay).

    A tip for removing the mold walls. If you unscrew them, they can be easily knocked off with a hammer.

    If you made it right, there is no chance of lifting it by hand. Buy a shop crane from Harbor Freight. Epoxy granite weighs a ton. Moving it can be dangerous .

    Forget about drilling epoxy granite. I had to use a new drill bit for every hole. It is better to bolt face plates to the metal skeleton before adding the epoxy granite (like in the video), or adding tubes through the base walls for nuts and bolts.

    Don't feel limited to just using epoxy granite over a metal skeleton. You can add any material you like to the design to achieve different properties. My base and fixed gantry is made with a carbon fiber shell filled with epoxy granite, steel bars filled with urethane foam, carbon fiber tubes (set in 3 directions), several kilos of carbon nanotubes (mixed with resin) and around three inches of carbon fiber strands (also mixed with heat cure epoxy). To say it is strong with excellent vibration damping is an understatement ....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Posts
    7

    Re: Epoxy Granite How-To Video

    Quote Originally Posted by Goemon View Post
    Regular room temp cure epoxy is not massively stable in high temperatures. It can become soft if left in the car on a hot day. Mixing it with sand /gravel helps a little but the best approach is to heat cure the resin or post cure. You can do this as a diy job by building a make-shift oven around your mold using sheet metal. You can then heat it with a plug in heat element from a BBQ smoker ($50 on ebay).
    ....
    How long do you need to post cure and at what temperature?

    Kind regards,

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    927

    Re: Epoxy Granite How-To Video

    Quote Originally Posted by Lemonmcgee1 View Post
    How long do you need to post cure and at what temperature?

    Kind regards,
    This varies by resin. Casting and laminating resins that can be post-cured usually include a recommended curing schedule.

    Some are lower temp cures like 250 degrees F. Some go up to 350. The higher the temp the greater the stiffness / temperature stability usually.

    If it doesn't say but you want to try... test a little bit at 180 degree for 4 hours and see how it turns out before using all of the resin.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Goemon View Post
    Just a few things to add on epoxy granite. I have a lot of experience with epoxy and composites from my day job....

    First, on the mold release, epoxy will not cure properly next to that mirror wax. That is one of the reasons for the poor surface finish in the video (with all the air bubbles). Adding a few layers of purple PVA mold release between the wax and the epoxy will solve the issue.

    The other reason for those air bubbles is the way it was mixed. Those hand drill rotary mixers cause tons of bubbles like when you beat an egg. The resin should be gently mixed first (including any resin coloring) before mixing it with the sand and gravel (to make sure it is mixed properly). Any remaining air bubbles can be removed under vacuum at that point.

    If you mix the resin and sand by hand (in small batches) and with heavy duty vinyl gloves, you can avoid mixing in additional bubbles. You can also feel the texture so you can make it as you want it. I like to add the resin slowly until it turns into a clay-like consistency.

    You can't stick to rigid percentages of each ingredient, There are too many variables between resins and rocks. If it is too thick, add more resin. Too thin then add more sand.

    You don't have to fill the mold in one go. It is actually better if you don't . As long as you don't leave more than a day or so between batches , it will all chemically bond together as if it was done in one batch. Curing too much resin at once is a recipe for excess heat which leads to bubbles.

    On the mix, Home Depot sells premixed bags of sand, gravel and granite in the cement section. It was around $5 for a 50lb bag and it works perfectly for epoxy granite.

    Regular room temp cure epoxy is not massively stable in high temperatures. It can become soft if left in the car on a hot day. Mixing it with sand /gravel helps a little but the best approach is to heat cure the resin or post cure. You can do this as a diy job by building a make-shift oven around your mold using sheet metal. You can then heat it with a plug in heat element from a BBQ smoker ($50 on ebay).

    A tip for removing the mold walls. If you unscrew them, they can be easily knocked off with a hammer.

    If you made it right, there is no chance of lifting it by hand. Buy a shop crane from Harbor Freight. Epoxy granite weighs a ton. Moving it can be dangerous .

    Forget about drilling epoxy granite. I had to use a new drill bit for every hole. It is better to bolt face plates to the metal skeleton before adding the epoxy granite (like in the video), or adding tubes through the base walls for nuts and bolts.

    Don't feel limited to just using epoxy granite over a metal skeleton. You can add any material you like to the design to achieve different properties. My base and fixed gantry is made with a carbon fiber shell filled with epoxy granite, steel bars filled with urethane foam, carbon fiber tubes (set in 3 directions), several kilos of carbon nanotubes (mixed with resin) and around three inches of carbon fiber strands (also mixed with heat cure epoxy). To say it is strong with excellent vibration damping is an understatement ....

    I know this is an old post, but could you describe your build a little bit more? Like where'd you put the carbon nanotubes and carbon fiber strands? And the carbon fiber tubes, where those just used as a skeletal structure, or for reinforcing something more specific?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Posts
    7

    Re: Epoxy Granite How-To Video

    Hi Gormon,

    I appreciate your response.

    Could I ask you if there are any relevant differences in the different types of epoxy resins when it comes to making epoxy granite?

    I found one supplier who suggest the following epoxy for polymer concrete: https://www.r-g.de/en/art/104100AP.

    It's quite expensive and I can get something for almost half the price locally in Sweden: https://www.epodex.com/se/produkt/ep...3%A4rgl%C3%B6s

    Could you provide any advice? I've seen you around these forums and I would love to hear your opinion.

    /F

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    6841

    Re: Epoxy Granite How-To Video

    Hi Lemon - Technically if you use a solvent less epoxy all epoxies will give you the same result. However as usual some are better then others. Both of the resins you link are suitable. Both are low viscosity resins that will wet the filling well and flow freely into all the cavities. The epodex at half the price is the go. Laminating epoxies have thixotropes in them (thickeners) and these are not good to use for EG as they thicken the more you agitate them. Look up non newtonian liquids. So you need to use epoxies that are suitable for infusion or resin transfer or river tables etc. eg both of the resins that you mention as these are designed to flow and deair. Please note to acheive best properties all of these epoxies need to be post cured. The cure schedule will be available from the supplier. Other wise you just have to leave it in a warm place and get the best cure possible... The epodex has a max casting thickness of 10mm. Speak to the supplier and use the slowest hardener that will work without post cure. The fill will absorb lots of heat so the 10mm will be much bigger in your EG application. Maybe around 100mm or more... the technical support may help with that info. Good luck - Peter

    edit - I just watched the video and I disagree with the mixing strategy of first mixing the sand and the epoxy resin, then the hardener. I recommend you mix the epoxy and hardener gently so you don't introduce a lot of air, then mix this into your filling. If you do a test and the epoxy is very thin you can dry pack the mould then pour on the epoxy and it will seep through the mix easily. Once the epoxy comes up even to the top of the mix stop filling... this will minimise your air entrapment as it will de-air itself as it fills. If you mix the epoxy into the sand for instance you will capture alot of air but thats OK thats just the way it is. Also use a brush and brush out the surfaces of the mould with epoxy before you start filling it. This will give you a much better surface finish then pouring the full mix into the mould. Even better is to use a glass tissue on the mould surface to create a thicker wet coating on the mould surface. Glass tissue is available from composite suppliers... again good luck with the build....

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    6841

    Re: Epoxy Granite How-To Video

    Hi Lemon - Why have you chosen EG to make a machine? Interested in your basic rational. Peter

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