Ooops, had a brain fart. CJL5585 is right, +5V to the gecko then the ground of that supply to the ground of the printer port. Seperate from the PS. Didn't have my cofee yet.
Ooops, had a brain fart. CJL5585 is right, +5V to the gecko then the ground of that supply to the ground of the printer port. Seperate from the PS. Didn't have my cofee yet.
Gerry, I guess you are right, however I am trying to set up an all round guide for stepper drivers. I guess you might have missed out on a recent post that had big time discussion about wiring and cooling practices. My theory is make it bold, easy to understand, even in other languages ( Pictorial) and hopfully there will never be any smoke.
Besides, computer drawing is my therapy.
TommyB, I dont know the answer, but I am guessing that the 5VDC is chopped up in pulses and fed back to the steo and dir wires. Or the other way round. ( Guessing)
This is why I am making the project public. So I can find the answers myself.
I didn't miss it. But that was with the G201 drives. The new G202 and G212 are much more robust, and highly recommended for beginners, because they aren't nearly as picky about how you install them.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Here is a example of one axis PC out Gecko in.
The examples so far should cover most applications, but just like when running DC servos at the drives voltage limit extra circuitry is required. This is what needs to be understood.
Darek
It's not clear in your drawing of mounting through the cabinet whether the cabinet wall is sandwiched between the heat sink and the drives. If so then efficient heat transfer between the multiple surfaces could be a problem. The drives should be directly attached to the heat sink and this will require a large hole in the cabinet. This should be indicated in the drawing in some way.Originally Posted by ynneb
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...achmentid=9898
As per Darek's post you will note that in this diagram the Gecko is getting power from the computer parallel printer port.
I recommend using an external 5 volt supply for the following reason:
Some computers have a problem outputting a proper 5 volt signal level. This problem is really pronounced if using some laptops. If an additional 5 volt supply is added, and this +5 volts goes directly to the optocouplers (The 5 Volt connection on the Gecko), and the power supply common (-) of the 5 volt supply is connected to the ground ckt of the breakout board (Pins 18 thru 25), any computer (including any laptop) should be able to communicate with the Gecko electronics on a consistent basis. This way, the computer is making the transistor switch, but the switching voltage does not have to be furnished by the computer itself.
Jerry
Benny
Can u draw a schematic for the breakout board, Charge pump and power supply and how that factors into the gecko wiring?
Thanks
Andy
Can anyone create a same type of schematic for G320 servo motors?
If this works here is a comple schematic of power supply, breakout board, G320's, encoders, and parallel port. Schematic is 50 K and is in .pdf.Originally Posted by cnc2k
Jerry
Nice work Jerry. That makes my work redundant.
My only suggestion is if the document was cut into 4 pages so that you could print it onto standard pages and then stick them together so as to make it not so small.
Can you do that or should I have a crack at doing it?
Can you show where fuses need to be add?
what happen to gecko's website? i couldn't find the manual.
Benny
You're not redundant ... you're essential!
It's great to see a servo schematic but could it please also be applied to steppers?
Cheers
Andy
I don't have the facilities here to cut it up into four smaller sections, so it's all yours to put into smaller pages.Originally Posted by ynneb
Jerry
Please post the files after you done cutting. i would love to have it, so i don't have sit by the computer all the time.
This is a great section guys.
A couple of comments as a guy that has just done all of this for the first time.
1. Can we have all of this stuff in one place.
2. Has any one put together some words, that tells how to do stuff along with the diagrams. All of it should be no longer than 1 page i would think, other wise us blokes will not read it.
3. To digress, has any shortening of the Mach X manual been done, I hate reading that thing everytime i want to add a new feature.
I am happy to put stuff together if this has not been done. Some common trouble shooting techniques and issues I found might also be a valuable doc?
any thoughts
/Michael
It can be printed out on a piece of computer paper (8 1/2 X 11), or on a sheet of 11 X 17 if you have that large a printer.Originally Posted by cnc2k
The size of the drawing can be changed with the + and - at the top of the file.
I set it to 50 percent size which is regular printer paper.
Jerry
I found another schematic on this site too
http://www.rogersmachine.net/CNCwiring.html
Check out the new tutorial videos at http://www.machsupport.comOriginally Posted by mikie
A lot better than reading the manual.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Hi GuysOriginally Posted by ynneb
In regards to the DPDT Relay (the one that is connected to the Start and E Stop Buttons) in the attached wiring diagram, does anyone know what part of the Relay each number represents? I would guess that the (A) & (B) is the Energizing Coil? Which number is the common, normally open, normally closed connection for each bank of this Relay?
Willyb
I just wired one of my G320, i didn't use the 1000uf cap. is that ok? i want to make sure it is safe before fire it up.
Also, can someone explain to me how to set the LIMIT, DAMP, and GAIN