[Crevice Reamer]

Crevice Reamer, Thanks a million for the Driver Suggestions. This is exactly what I ended up ordering for my Grizzly 10x22. Should be in next week.

Glad it was a help to you.

[quote]I have a question (to anyone) regarding the ballscrews and couplings.

The couplings in Derek's list end up being very high by the time you buy both halves and the rubber from McMaster Carr you end up at $36 per coupling. I wonder why he went this way, wouldn't some good zero backlash, spiral couplings be much cheaper and much better? Opinions welcome.[quote]

Helical couplings are ALWAYS better than Lovejoy type.

I notice Derek did not have any bearings listed for the free end although he mentioned adding some later. Looks like McMaster #5972K327 12x32x10mm metal shielded ought to be good enough for the free end, especially being $4.41 each.

ANY bearing--even a bushing will work on the free end. It just has to contain whipping and allow the screw to be able to move laterally when it expands or contracts.

This will be my first endeavor thru CNC Land other than a few small projects and I don't want to mess it up too bad...

Thanks for any suggestions or opinions.
Richard

Welcome to the club Richard. Good luck with your conversion.

CR.

[David Bord]

Guys, just ran across this thread. Awesome!! By chance is did the updated drawings ever get posted for converting the Grizzly 10x22 to CNC?

David

[rwskinner]

I don't think so.

A Word of caution, if you do use the drawings in the beginning of this thread, then use the material list and drawings as rough examples only. Do NOT use the drawings directly or you will be disappointed. Don't ask how I know At least I only machined 1 easy item before I figured out there were either typos, or the machines are that much different.

Richard

[David Bord]

I don't think so.

A Word of caution, if you do use the drawings in the beginning of this thread, then use the material list and drawings as rough examples only. Do NOT use the drawings directly or you will be disappointed. Don't ask how I know At least I only machined 1 easy item before I figured out there were either typos, or the machines are that much different.

Richard

Thanks for the heads up Richard. Really appreciate it... Just hoping to save some time in the conversion.

David

[David Bord]

I recommend THESE electronics for the G0602:

$289 G540 http://www.http://geckodrive.com/pro...px?c=3&i=14469
$098 two KL23H284-35-4B 387 oz motor for X and Z When available, the KL23H2100-35-4B 381 oz motor will be an even better choice.
$060 One KL-350-48 48V/7.3A power supply.
$010 Estop switch
$005 2 Home switches
$009 Straight thru parallel computer cable.
-------
$471

All of this is available from Keling:

http://kelinginc.net/

Fantastic list/advice!! Man things have gotten simpler since looking into this a few years ago. So this list, some wire, a PC and few few misc items will handle all the motion control? Awesome!

Would you all guess the 387 oz motor is just right for the 10x22 mill? Are they suitable for taking as heavy cuts as the machine is capable of handling? Im hoping for a small bit of overkill.

Thanks again, David

[Crevice Reamer]

Fantastic list/advice!! Man things have gotten simpler since looking into this a few years ago. So this list, some wire, a PC and few few misc items will handle all the motion control? Awesome!

Would you all guess the 387 oz motor is just right for the 10x22 mill? Are they suitable for taking as heavy cuts as the machine is capable of handling? Im hoping for a small bit of overkill.

Thanks again, David

Yep! Tell me about it. MUCH simpler now, All due to an ingenious idea that Mariss had in his hot tub--Which he developed into the G540. THANKS MARISS!!

The 387 requires more Voltage than the G540 can run--so it will run slightly slower, and at speed will deliver somewhat LESS torque than the 381--Go with the 381.

Either will deliver plenty of cutting force. 381 oz times 5 TPI = 1905 oz divided by 16 = about 120 pounds.

It takes about 10 ounces to turn the hand crank, which turns a 17 TPI stock screw, so that's 170 ounces divided by 16 = about 10 pounds of cutting force manually.

CR.

[David Bord]

Guys,

Does Grizzly ever put the 10x22 lathe on sale, or offer discount coupons? Looking to pull the trigger but would like to save a few bucks as well

Thanks, David

[Crevice Reamer]

Guys,

Does Grizzly ever put the 10x22 lathe on sale, or offer discount coupons? Looking to pull the trigger but would like to save a few bucks as well

Thanks, David

You just missed the sale. $1025 and free shipping. Ended 12/28/09. Probably won't go on sale again until April/May. It's worth every cent of the new price though.

CR.

[jjenks]

Hey Cervice Reamer,

I got my lathe converted to CNC using the plans found in this thread. I am using a 12 volt driver board, motors and power supply I got off of a couple of minitech tools. As you can guess they are too weak to hold position so I want to upgrade. Unfortunately as a shop teacher I depend up on the money that is available to me through a budget. I did purchase a Xylotex board part number XS3525/8S-3. Can 380 oz Nema 23 Stepper Motors be hooked to this board?

Thanks.

Jack

[rwskinner]

Something you may want to check if you used the plans at the beginning of this thread. The X axis adapter and motor mount is not real stable. I could flex it over 0.005" with one finger.

I'm sure it has to do with several things but I ended up making two 45 degree gusset plates that came off the X Axis mount and went down the carriage onto the Z Axis plate. With all my weight, I now get less than 0.001"

If I get some time, I'll shoot some pictures. It's been a very fun build and this has been a great thread with lots of ideas.

[rwskinner]

Some pictures. Still have to take some more of the current status but haven't had time.

Bearing Housing for the left side of the Z-Ball screw is the Free end. It's built so I could leave the tranny in the lathe.

I used an old enclosure I had laying around, not the best looking thing but it works. I added another black aluminum connector plate to the bottom next to the G540.

I take some more pictures when I have time and get more done.
I already put connectors on stepper wiring and cleaned that up.
I still need to add gussets to Z Fixed mount bracket, Limit switches, Screw covers, stepper covers.

[Crevice Reamer]

Hey Cervice Reamer,

I got my lathe converted to CNC using the plans found in this thread. I am using a 12 volt driver board, motors and power supply I got off of a couple of minitech tools. As you can guess they are too weak to hold position so I want to upgrade. Unfortunately as a shop teacher I depend up on the money that is available to me through a budget. I did purchase a Xylotex board part number XS3525/8S-3. Can 380 oz Nema 23 Stepper Motors be hooked to this board? Thanks. Jack

Hello Jack. Sorry to hear you are having trouble. The 381 motors will work, but need 48V PSU for best operation.

There's a lesson here: Buying components that won't do the job, or will break down & need replacing, does not SAVE any money. Best thing for you is to sell what you can--BEFORE the Xylotex dies, bite the bullet and get the proper electronics:

http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread...post682624.#91

CR.

[jjenks]

From the pictures it looks like you really beefed it up. How did you do the ball nut under the x slide? I did talk to the district and they are going to spring for the money to get the better motors, drive and power supply. Thanks for the pictures and information.

jack

[tauntdesigns]

Some pictures. Still have to take some more of the current status but haven't had time.

Bearing Housing for the left side of the Z-Ball screw is the Free end. It's built so I could leave the tranny in the lathe.

I used an old enclosure I had laying around, not the best looking thing but it works. I added another black aluminum connector plate to the bottom next to the G540.

I take some more pictures when I have time and get more done.
I already put connectors on stepper wiring and cleaned that up.
I still need to add gussets to Z Fixed mount bracket, Limit switches, Screw covers, stepper covers.

Looking good!

[asuratman]

Hello,
Can somebody here explain to me what is the easy way to make threading? One thing that I know of is using index pulse card. I am building cnc lathe machine now. In this thread, I did not understand clearly. Maybe somebody have some picture?

[GaryCorlew]

Yes with mach3 you have to use an index pulse card, I don't know what you want to see in a picture but this is the card I use on my lathe

[jjenks]

I just got the idex card. I would be interested in seeing how someone mounted it to the G0620 Grizzly lathe. I go the Grecko motors and boards and everything seems to be working fine. I mounted the board in an old Spectra Light case.

Jack

[rwskinner]

Really busy at work here, but when I catch a break I'll shoot a pic for you.

I made a 4-1/2" OD Aluminum Disc x 0.092" thick, and mounted it behind the main spindle pulley, then installed my pulley and both spindle nuts back on the spindle. I mounted a small block on the back of the head for the optical interrupter.

Disc ID is just a few thousands larger than the Spindle OD and there is a small keyway notch on the ID of the Disc.

The disc has a single slot cut in it that is 0.400" wide x 0.500" long.

Disc ID and OD was cut with the lathe, by hand since it was apart, keyway and Idex notch was done with a cheap notcing tool from hardware store.


Cable goes to a small stereo jack on the electrical panel, then I use a stereo patch cord to go to my CNC box where the C3 Resides.

I just got the idex card. I would be interested in seeing how someone mounted it to the G0620 Grizzly lathe. I go the Grecko motors and boards and everything seems to be working fine. I mounted the board in an old Spectra Light case.

Jack

[rwskinner]

Sorry for the delay. I removed the XSlide and milled the slot about 0.125" wider so the ballnut would fit. I only milled the side towards the spindle so the ball nut center stayed centered with everything else. The material removed was to make room for the recirculating tube on the ball nut.

I have lots more pictures of the updated project and when I get time I'll get them posted. Maybe a new thread since I'm walking all over dereck's thread.

From the pictures it looks like you really beefed it up. How did you do the ball nut under the x slide? I did talk to the district and they are going to spring for the money to get the better motors, drive and power supply. Thanks for the pictures and information.

jack

[jjenks]

Thanks for getting back. I understand the C3 setup pictures will be good also. If you are using Mach III what are using for your steps under the motor control for your X and Z axis. Also did you get an e stop hooked up? I got one hooked up and it does stop the motion of the axis movement and the spindle but the dro keeps moving on the Mach III screen.
Thanks.
jack