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IndustryArena Forum > CNC Electronics > CNC Machine Related Electronics > help with a DC motor controller....
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    13

    help with a DC motor controller....

    Hi ... I would like to ask for some help from the very informed members of this site ... I have been lurking a while ... I have just won a Micro-Mark .82500 mini-lathe on Ebay .. and it is missing the DC motor controller .. I know i can buy that from LittleMachineshop.com .. for I think 89.00 .. but I have some experiance in Electronics ... My Question is .. does or have any here have a simple diagram .. to build a DC MOTOR controller...that would work with this lathe?.. with parts list ... I like to roll my own stuff as I can ... and I like the idea of a separate ..away from the actual lathe control box .. You Guys here have also inspired me to get my feet :drowning: wet with a CNC mini mill ... I have the Homier mill all the electronic parts... the 282 oz steppers Dan Mauch was selling ... and the power supplies ... but havn't started retofitting yet .. as I havn't any maching experiance as of yet .. I figured to start with the lathe and a few good books .. I found a Amazon.com ... but anyway I would really appreciate any help ....
    :drowning:
    Mike...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    24260
    Mike, If you want to build a controller from the ground up with descrete chips, You can obtain alot of info from the IC manf applications sites, here is Motorola for a start
    http://www.freescale.com/webapp/sps/...XGrrlPY7r8f7sz
    I once built a very simple one for a servo valve with a single National LM759 and a couple of resistors.
    All of the major IC manuf have data/Application sheets that have a whole range of circuits Harris, National, Motorola, Maxim, Allegro.
    I have also got everthing from free samples to complete sample circuit boards to populate.
    Al
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  3. #3
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    Jun 2004
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    13
    Thanks.. Al ... for the web site ... It gave me the idea to use a H-bridge circuit I found on the net.. but replacing the 511's with 200 volt 20 amp mosfet's ... am i right .... I will try to post the circuit below or the web site ... Thanks again .. Mike
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails h_bridge.jpg  

  4. #4
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    Apr 2004
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    169
    Unfortunatly this circuit isn't going to do the job - the maximum voltage for this circuit is 15 volts or so. I think you need 110 volts at about 4 Amps for the motor on the lathe. This circuit i found comes closer to what you need. You will need to provide a separate low voltage supply for the 3525 and a higher voltage supply for the motor. It includes a current limit which is pretty manditory for a 400 Watt motor. Get the 3525 data sheet and make sure you understand the circuits operation if you decide to build something based on this.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 3525-motor.jpg  

  5. #5
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    Jun 2004
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    Thanks for the new diagram .... Looks like it will do it for me with a few mods ... Thanks again and to Al also,,, this way at least if I fry the control sometime in the future .. I will have no problem fixing it...


    Mike.....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    1306
    The 7x mini lathe motor is rated at 110VDC.

    This circuit is for 8-35VDC as far as I can see. I checked the ST electronics site for the data sheet :

    http://www.st.com/stonline/books/pdf/docs/4286.pdf

    Since Q1 is a 100V mosfet, is the plan to separate the control circuit from the power circuit? Could someone please draw a sketch of how to do this. I have been wondering how to make a higher powered DC controller also.

    To drive a 110V motor you probably want a 200V capable mosfet right?
    Regards,
    Mark

  7. #7
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    Apr 2004
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    169
    For a 110 volt motor you would probably use a supply of about 150 volts (110 ac rectified) with a 200 volt mosfet. A 10 watt 2700 ohm resistor and a 1 watt 10 volt zener to provide a 10 volt supply for pin 15 of the 3525.The resistor would be in series with d3 and the zener between ground and pin 15 . Pin 13 (vc) would be connected to pin 15 instead of 16 as this would give better gate drive for most mosfets. VR2 sets the chop frequency and dosn't really need to be variable, replacing it and r4 with a 6k8 resistor should give a frequency of about 20kHz. R7-R9 set the current limit and their parallel resistance should be 0.6/Amps ie for 4 amps, .15 ohms . VR1 should be a trim pot to set minimum speed and VR3 is the speed control proper.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    24260
    I am not familiar with the motor on your machine but if it is a 110v universal motor and you want speed control, there is a schematic and link to the data sheet for a surplus treadmill motor control that was posted on the Metalworking dropbox about 5 years ago http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...s/treadmot.txt
    These 2hp treadmill motor controllers are no longer available asfaik. But they use the Motorola tda1085 ic that motorola actually designed for washing machine motors.
    I have had one of these controllers on my bandsaw for the last 5 years and it works great.
    Al
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  9. #9
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    Jun 2004
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    Thanks.. Guys... I am building the circuit above .. with a 200 volt 20 amp mosfet ...thanks for the idea Tachus to get the needed voltage for the 3525 ...and your other input ... I havn't worked in electronics since the early 70's .... so I am rusty and things have changed alot ,, I recieved the Lathe today .. It does have the motor ... to test the motor .. I hooked up a large bridge rectifier .. with 110 .. and used a variac to control it ... works just fine. . Again ... thanks ,, I knew someone here .. would have an answer... :cheers:

    Regards,,, Mike

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    246
    Quote Originally Posted by mike3
    Thanks.. Al ... for the web site ... It gave me the idea to use a H-bridge circuit I found on the net.. but replacing the 511's with 200 volt 20 amp mosfet's ... am i right .... I will try to post the circuit below or the web site ... Thanks again .. Mike
    Who draw this schematics? Totaly wrong. Use Mos driver IC visit the
    http://www.irf.com

    populer driver IC IR210X family. IR2103 IR2104....

  11. #11
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    Mar 2004
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    1306
    Tachus42, thanks for posting mods to up thevoltage of the SG3525 circuit above. I printed the circuit, and note each of the changes you suggested (and understood them

    Bunalmis, thank for the link, I downloaded the datasheet for the IR2103. Do I understand correctly that the IR2103 doesn't do the PWM Choppering part which the SG3525 incorporates? Do you know of a sample circuit to do the same job as the SG3525 circuit above.
    Regards,
    Mark

  12. #12
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    Apr 2004
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    169
    The value i gave for the power supply resistor i gave was a little high it will not quite supply enough current - it should be about 2000 ohms to supply 75 mA (45 is needed for the gate drive and 20 for the chip plus a liitle spare). Reducing it will increase the power disipation above 10 watts so a good alternative would be to increase the gate resistor to 330 ohms.

  13. #13
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    Mar 2004
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    Would the gate resister be R5 220Ohms?
    Regards,
    Mark

  14. #14
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    Jul 2003
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    RotarySMP

    IR21XX family are MOS driver IC. This ICs solves all Mos drive problems.

    If you need simple pwm circuits you can use any pwm controller IC for the smps applicatios. IC examples SG3524, UC3843, UC3844, TL494...
    http://www.semelab.com/power/pwms.shtml (Data sheets)

    UC3843 is a current mode pwm controller. I dont have ready schematic but
    you can find sample design in the application notes of semiconductor company. Also you can find examples at the yahoo

    I used TL494 motor controller keywords for search engine and find follawing link.

    http://www.acs.comcen.com.au/dc_controller.html
    http://www.powersimtech.com/download.html (?)

  15. #15
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    Mar 2004
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    Thanks for the links Bunalmis.

    That second to last link is an interesting one, but at the end, it looks like you either use an IC limited to about 30V for the PWM + mosfet driving, and need some discrete components to prevent the full motor voltage from frying that IC, or you have a Mosfet driver which can handle the full motor voltage, but then you need additional componentry for the PWM side of the control.

    It seems to this beginner like belts or suspenders, either will get the job done, and taste will dictate which style you prefer? Is this correct, or do those high Voltage mosfet drivers convey some other advantage?

    For a beginner like me, having a guy like Tachus42 detail the exact modifications to an existing circuit in a way I can understand is a great help. I am not confident I could take the non worked examples from an IC datasheet and work through to get all the resister and cap values etc.
    Regards,
    Mark

  16. #16
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    Apr 2004
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    Yes the Gate resistor is the 220 ohm one.

  17. #17
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    RotarySMP

    (I have problem with English.)

    I modify tachus42's schema. You can find some answers for you questions in new schema.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Modified-3525-motor.jpg  

  18. #18
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    Mar 2004
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    Bunalmis and Tachus42, you guys are real champs.

    I'll have to have a play in Eagle and see if I can get this laid out.

    What minimum trace thickness would you recommend for a controller that will power a 250W 100V DC and 2.5A motor?
    Regards,
    Mark

  19. #19
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    Apr 2004
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    169
    Just for the record i didn't design the circuit it was just one i found, buts it's simple and should work well. The mos driver ic is a good improvment - it will speed up the turn up and turn off of the mosfet keeping it cooler

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    1306
    The standard Mini-lathe controller has the pot for speed control, with an OFFdetent, and a FWD-OFF-REV switch. Their have been reports of the controller not surviving being turned from OFF to FWD with the pot set to a high speed. Most users control ON/OFF with the pot and only touch the OFF switch at the end of a session or to change direction.

    With the circuit above, do you control on/off with a switch or relay in the power in lines (both 12V and/or 200V), or should you control RPM to zero with the VR3?
    Regards,
    Mark

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