[zamazz]

It's worth a shot, but the replacement nuts might not fit. I bought a second nut to double nut one of the screws I already had and it was nowhere close to fitting. I had to go from .125 to .118 balls to get it to fit and it's still tighter than normal.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[phomann]

Yes, that's what I thought. It may be better to buy the screws and ball as a matched set.

Cheers,

Peter

[phomann]

I have a number of Jigs that I have made for use on my Taig CNC Mill. Now that I have my TM20VL mill operational (Not finished with the conversion yet), I wanted to use one of the jigs on it. The jigs have been designed to mount to the Taig with 10-24 bolts and Taig T-nuts. I need to make some T-Nuts for the TM20VL but with a 10-24 thread, rather than the usual M8 thread.

The slots in the mill need a T-Nut that is about 12mm high, 16mm wide at the bottom and 10mm wide at the top. The local bolt store that by now, I deserve to go to their Christmas party has some key steel with the dimensions 12" x 1/2" (12.5mm) by 5/8"(15.875mm). This is near enough for the nuts.

Using the key Steel stock, the machining required to create the T-Nuts is ;

1. Mill 3mm from either side of the stock to a depth of 6mm.
2. Score the lengths of the nuts where they will need to be cut with a hacksaw.
3. Drill with a 4mm bit.
4. Countersink the holes (forgot to do this step).
5. Tap the holes to 10-24.
6. Cut to length.
7. Mill the T-Nut lengths to size.

The full story on how I produced them can be seen here;

http://www.homanndesigns.com/info/in...vl-mill-t-nuts

A few pics along the way.

Attachment 314396 Attachment 314398 Attachment 314400

Attachment 314402 Attachment 314404


Cheers,

Peter

[pippin88]

Peter, I see a bandsaw in your future...

I just got my TM20LV wired up and moving again after a year or so out of action. I think I have the same amount of radial play in my ballscrews that you do (but haven't put an indicator on the table to actually check the movement). Need to confirm how much backlash it translates into.

[phomann]

[phomann]

[phomann]

[phomann]

[Neptunes]

Hi Peter, what are you making here is it a power supply or new control board. Cheer
Peter


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[phomann]

Hi Peter,

It's neither.

[Neptunes]

Hi Peter,

It's neither.

Hey Peter
Ahh mystery like it watching . Have a great chrissy mate to you and your family. Been making gifts on my CNC thanks Peter


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[phomann]

Attachment 344054

[phomann]

[phomann]

[phomann]

[phomann]

Attachment 344368

[mjoconr]

Sure looks like a power supply mounting board to me.

[phomann]

Hi,

It's a chassis plate for the G540 based controller for my mill. There's a bit more to go though. I'll post more after the break.

Cheers,

Peter

[phomann]

[phomann]

The controller box with the components installed. When running off the Ethernet Smoothstepper I use a jumper plug to connect Port 1 of the ESS to the G540.



Port 2 of the ESS is accessible, whereas Port 3 of the ESS is used internally for the extra axes (Dummied up at the moment). The controller has a number of custom PC boards. The main one, the GC-06 board provides;

1. 2A 12V power supply for relays and external I/O such as proximity switches, indicators etc.
2. An isolated 12V Supply for the VFD circuity, allowing the G540 to develop a full 10V control voltage.
3. Temperature controlled cooling fan.
4. LED indicators on all inputs and outputs.
5. Ribbon cable connector for front panel indicators.

The Aim was to put together a controller that was more than just a G540 and a power supply in a box. I also wanted be able to put a controller together without soldering, and minimizing the amount of wiring required.

Cheers,

Peter