[hoss2006]

Hi all,

Just spoke with Matt the owner of precisionmatthews.com (Precision Matthews) and got some information I thought might be useful.

The G-704 is not made by Weiss. It comes from a different factory. The PM-20,25,30 are made by Weiss. This makes a difference to me since I know that Weiss makes a wide range of machine tools and has the proper expertise. That's the reason I bought a Rigol scope even though it had a smaller screen and was an older design. Rigol makes scopes for HP and others - they know their stuff.

The next batch of PM-20,25 and 30s will be coming in with motors made in Tawain by Best Motors. The problematic motors were mainland China made and were not manufactured to tight tolerances. In particular they had a burr on the edge of the brush guides that would cause the brush to hang up. The motor would run fine at first but as soon as the brushes needed to move they couldn't and this would cause an arc that would destroy the motor controller as well as badly burn and pit the armature. He estimated that at one time he was seeing a failure rate of one in three machines though it has been improving as of late. He finally got so tired of returns that he told Weiss to use the Best Motors because they have a much higher quality manufacturing process and have been building motors for many years.

He agreed with me that the labels on the G0704 machines warning against running at full speed were nonsense. A motor running at full speed with no load is essentially idling - there is very little current draw or heat generated. The spinning armature creates a back EMF that counters the voltage supplied by the controller. A ninety volt motor running at full speed is probably using less than half an amp. Look at routers - they spin at 20K and don't have any problems.

I find it inexcusable for a company with Grizzly's resources to essentially create a CMA label so they can avoid responsibility for problems they never should have allowed in the first place. DC PM motors are a more than mature technology. They are used everywhere from car fans to household appliances - you name it. Grizzly, by these actions, has created a real bad taste in my mouth. This isn't the only problem I have with them but it's the one relevant to this thread so I won't kvetch further.

The main heads up here is that genuine Weiss machines with better quality motors will be available from PM in about eight weeks. The machines are finished and ready to have the motors mounted but the motors need some adaptation to mount up right. Four weeks to get the motors installed and four weeks to come across the big pond.

For me the extra $100 is well worth it. Matt was very clear that he couldn't match Grizzly's price. But in my case he's shipping the thing 3000 miles vs less than 1000 miles and I'm getting a better motor, a machine made by a reputable firm, and a real live human being I can talk to when I have a problem. Well worth the difference.

I'm a nobody just like most everybody else.

You got me interested in the mill and I got motivated to do a little research.

Now if you've got information that contradicts anything I've said I'd be grateful to hear it. My intention is not to "promote" anyone. I realize that Matt is going to be biased in his favor but he is making a claim that his machines are made by Weiss and that the Grizzly machines are not. That, as I said before, matters to me. And the quality of the motor matters too. I also appreciate dialing up someone and being able to talk about things the old fashioned way.

I will be happy to retract the whole post if you think it violates your policies. But I'd love to know anything more that you can say about the quality of the Grizzly machines at this point in time vs: machines made by Weiss.

Yes you are giving out matt's biased opinion so I take his opinion of his biggest competitor with a grain of salt.
No the grizzly isn't perfect but I haven't had any trouble with mine and the price is the best you can get.
A better motor is the only difference, not really an important factor for me and many others that
swap for something bigger which is a popular mod for many going cnc on any mill.
I don't make the policies here but you gotta be cool about what you post and where, you don't want a troll label so soon.
FYI if you want the best quality bf20, get one from Optimum. I have their link on my main page
'where to buy' along with 15 others including PM.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

Putting the finishing touches on the stl models.
I added a little tab and slot for the cap and tube to make gluing the tube at the proper angle a snap now.
Also ran all the models thru the Netfab Cloud to reduce the file sizes and make sure the were fixed of any errors.
Probably be all done tomorrow unless I get put in a foul mood.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

I couldn't find the little red lock knob that broke on mine the first day so I whipped up something.
If anyone has a pic or 2 of theirs showing how it's held in place that would be great.
I think there was a steel retainer clip on the inside but I can't remember.
Hoss

[Bubba]

Hoss,
Just looked at mine and I can't find any retention clips of any sort. There is a "dimple" on the side that looks like it may be "pinned" in place, but can't tell for sure if it is that or a mold mark.

Sorry can't be more definitive and afraid to force it and break mine.

[mhackney]

Hoss, both of my Craftsman Powder Coaters had a little steel circlip retaining the red knobs. Of course they both broke at first use! If possible, I think a larger diameter knob would make removing/installing the cup easier - and a nice large notch or arrow to know which way the slots are to align it properly!

EDIT - I must be going blind. Just looked at your drawing and it has a very nice indicator to show the alignment with the flats! Time for new glasses I guess.

Cheers,
Michael

[hoss2006]

Hoss, both of my Craftsman Powder Coaters had a little steel circlip retaining the red knobs. Of course they both broke at first use! If possible, I think a larger diameter knob would make removing/installing the cup easier - and a nice large notch or arrow to know which way the slots are to align it properly!

Cheers,
Michael

Thanks, I'll try that, my first one was an attempt at an oversize diameter that would pop into the hole to keep it, too hard to print.
Yeah this knob was a little too dainty for my fingers but it turns easy enough.
The centerline on the knob points in the direction of the tab, horizontal to open, vertical to lock.
Hoss

[Whizbang]

Hey hoss how can I contact you privately. would you mind if i sent you something regarding todays thread activity?

[hoss2006]

Hoss,
Just looked at mine and I can't find any retention clips of any sort. There is a "dimple" on the side that looks like it may be "pinned" in place, but can't tell for sure if it is that or a mold mark.

Sorry can't be more definitive and afraid to force it and break mine.

Thanks, there might be different models with different knob styles perhaps.
We'll get something to work.
Just ordered some circlips to try.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

Hey hoss how can I contact you privately. would you mind if i sent you something regarding todays thread activity?

Sure just send it to [email protected].
Hoss

[hoss2006]

Hoss, both of my Craftsman Powder Coaters had a little steel circlip retaining the red knobs. Of course they both broke at first use! If possible, I think a larger diameter knob would make removing/installing the cup easier - and a nice large notch or arrow to know which way the slots are to align it properly!

EDIT - I must be going blind. Just looked at your drawing and it has a very nice indicator to show the alignment with the flats! Time for new glasses I guess.

Cheers,
Michael

Like this one better?
Hoss

[mhackney]

That's the ticket! No mistaking how to use that. Nice job.

Cheers,
Michael

[hoss2006]

Excellent, thanks Hoss! I was thinking about machining a little L out of aluminum with a straight connector on the side but this looks a lot easier!

cheers,
Michael

Yeah the 1/4 tubing is pretty cheap and the wee little 1/8 ID provides enough oil and bonus, the thick wall stands up well. I didn't want to have to replace broken thin walled tubing all the time.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

My mom had a good idea for the bottle cap on the XC powdercoat cups.
Purchase your soda to color coordinate with the powder color.
Not exact but at least in the ballpark.
Mountain dew for green, Dr. pepper for red, Diet Pepsi for gray, etc.
Hoss

[Stigoe]

One idea, not as easy though, is to either turn or mill new caps and powdercoat them. Then you'd definitely get the correct color...

[hoss2006]

One idea, not as easy though, is to either turn or mill new caps and powdercoat them. Then you'd definitely get the correct color...

Yeah I'll probably just mark the cap with a sharpie.
or get a swatch set and stick a piece on.
I looked into low temp powdercoat but it's curing temp is still higher than the plastics glass transition temp.
Polycarbonate might hold up though.

More teasing, the XC version is done.
Making a funnel and some lock knobs, my circlips are here so I can see if that will work.
Hoss

[Dingenman]

Very nice work Hoss!

Don't you ever need time to sleep...?

You make me want to have a printer too!!

Cheers,
Ard

[hoss2006]

Thanks, I do sleep, funny thing is I dream about this stuff sometimes.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

Anyone who wants a peak at the main stl's can email me and I'll send a zip which
has the regular cup, the XC cup, the cup cap, the tubes for the cup and cap and the funnel.
These are the full models, the ones I split into pieces for printing without support will come later with the finished release with pics, vids parts etc.
email me at [email protected]
Hoss

[mhackney]

Hoss, the color coded bottle caps is a great idea and inspired yet another - some of the high end energy drinks come in aluminum bottles with aluminum bottle caps. I think they are the same thread. If so, they could be powder coated to match exactly!

cheers,
Michael

[hoss2006]

Hoss, the color coded bottle caps is a great idea and inspired yet another - some of the high end energy drinks come in aluminum bottles with aluminum bottle caps. I think they are the same thread. If so, they could be powder coated to match exactly!

cheers,
Michael

There you go, I'll have to buy some.
Hoss