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Thread: Hoss's G0704

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  1. #501
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1416
    Quote Originally Posted by hoss2006 View Post
    1.073 would give you a loose class 2B thread, I used a 1.0625 bore for the best class 3B thread with the tap.
    Easy as pie, took about 3 seconds to power tap it on the lathe.
    Don't trust your chuck, indicate the part face with a DTI.
    Hoss
    Thanks! Glad I stopped where I did. I'll see if the local shop here has an internal threader. Otherwise I'll order up something. That threader/groover looks pretty interesting.

  2. #502
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1114
    They also make external top notch holders that can do the same.

  3. #503
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1416
    Quote Originally Posted by Starleper1 View Post
    They also make external top notch holders that can do the same.
    I've got an external guy from AR Warner. I just never have had a cause to do internal threads yet.

  4. #504
    Quote Originally Posted by amyers View Post
    Have you seen this, only $20.
    Z ballnut mount
    AM
    2 left and then that's it.
    Will be no longer available.
    Hoss
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  5. #505
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    3447
    Finally received my R8 conversion so now i can go ahead and swap those new bearings in. I ordered those shims from mcmaster as you advised. does it matter if the shims go above or below the bearing? Or as long as the thickness is good its good? Will i have to press these in or should i be able to get them in by hand?

    Thanks Hoss.

    I will have to send you a picture of this one part as well, they might have sent me the wrong quill sleeve lower black screw in part.. Thank goodness my MT3 one fits the R8 one though. The one they sent me is like a 1/2 size replica...


    EDIT:
    Apparently im having issues with the "spindle ring" i think they shipped the wrong part?

    Attached is a picture.. I can account for everything else, except this spindle ring.. The thing is there is no spindle ring that came off the MT3 or R8 spindle i already had... Im confused lol..

    Part 274 "spindle ring" $4.50

    I have a video that i will post later tonight.
    Video:
    [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MA8GVZt71xk"]YouTube - Grizzly G0704 Highspeed Bearing upgrade Part 1.[/nomedia]
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMAG0599.jpg   IMAG0598.jpg  

  6. #506
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    45
    I ordered the R8 conversion stuff also (Thanks diyengineer for the help!). Grizzly of course do not have them in stock, so will have to wait to 11th Jan for my bits.

  7. #507
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    3447
    Quote Originally Posted by CADScott View Post
    I ordered the R8 conversion stuff also (Thanks diyengineer for the help!). Grizzly of course do not have them in stock, so will have to wait to 11th Jan for my bits.
    Take a peek at that video in a bit when its done processing and lemme know if you see part "247" in my video.. i have no clue what the "spindle ring" is suppose to be..

  8. #508
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    45
    Just watching the video, not sure where that part comes from, will take mine apart tonight to have a look.

  9. #509
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    136
    That looks like the ring in the bottom of the quill. Does it not fit there?

  10. #510
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    45
    Nope, it's not the lower quill ring, it's too small. Can't find that part anywhere on mine, I guess they have sent you the wrong part diyengineer.

  11. #511
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by CADScott View Post
    Nope, it's not the lower quill ring, it's too small. Can't find that part anywhere on mine, I guess they have sent you the wrong part diyengineer.
    Ah, and thanks for that video.

    So you push down on the sleeve under the drawbar cap and pull that C washer and it all comes out? After pulling the quill moving gears, that is.

  12. #512
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    3447
    Quote Originally Posted by CADScott View Post
    Nope, it's not the lower quill ring, it's too small. Can't find that part anywhere on mine, I guess they have sent you the wrong part diyengineer.
    Must be the wrong part. Here is a comparison.

    So the real question is what the heck is part number P07042474!? "spindle ring".
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMAG0600.jpg   Untitled.jpg  

  13. #513
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    3447
    Quote Originally Posted by Beezle View Post
    Ah, and thanks for that video.

    So you push down on the sleeve under the drawbar cap and pull that C washer and it all comes out? After pulling the quill moving gears, that is.
    Well after you pull the C washer and take the spring off, Use the manual Quill feed and just keep lowering it on down, make sure you have one hand holding the quill and it will drop right on out!

  14. #514
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    45
    I think part 247 is the lower ring, my parts breakdown is different, and clearly shows part 247 at the bottom of the spindle. All the other numbers line up with Grizzly numbers.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails BF20L.jpg  

  15. #515
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    3447
    Quote Originally Posted by CADScott View Post
    I think part 247 is the lower ring, my parts breakdown is different, and clearly shows part 247 at the bottom of the spindle. All the other numbers line up with Grizzly numbers.
    I am a idiot haha. I guess if i were to follow the line Number 247 does fall right below the bearing..(flame2)

    haha! Your schematic in my opinion is clearly laid out better! I guess i have to be smarter than the drawing!

    So problem solved, they sent me some Miniature sized version of part 247. Ill have to call them and see whats up with that?!

  16. #516
    Sounds like you got it all figured out.
    One note, the bearings should just fit in the bores, no need to press them in,
    just a little love tap with a rubber mallet.
    The upper bearing should have a slip fit on the spindle so binding won't screw up the preload.
    emery the spindle if needed.
    Hoss

    P.S., the Z mounts are sold out now.
    http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com

  17. #517
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by diyengineer View Post
    Well after you pull the C washer and take the spring off, Use the manual Quill feed and just keep lowering it on down, make sure you have one hand holding the quill and it will drop right on out!
    What did you push that sleeve down with? Seems stiff enough to need a clamp, but I haven't really tried yet. Waiting for the parts, etc. to arrive.

  18. #518
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by Beezle View Post
    What did you push that sleeve down with? Seems stiff enough to need a clamp, but I haven't really tried yet. Waiting for the parts, etc. to arrive.
    To answer my own question - it was easier than I thought.

    I locked the quill and have the feed already removed. Just 3 screws and it pulls out.

    I left the drawbar cap on to catch the sleeve and pushed the sleeve down with a block of wood at one edge, then pull the C clip out.

    Then slowly undo the cap and there wasn't that much spring at the end that anything flew. Then undo the quill lock and the spindle drops out.

    So I assume preload of the bearing is in the two threaded rings? The top one having two cap screws in it?

    Now I just have to figure out gears to improve RPMs and maybe learn how to use a compound rest so I can make Hoss' pulleys.

  19. #519
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    3447
    Umm... I need to order a new lower bearing... Its in pieces.. Banged on it a bit too hard.. opps... =( Now i have half the bearing stuck on the spindle and half in the quill.. ****!!!

  20. #520
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1114
    The top ring is the one to set the preload. The bottom is basically a dust cap. The top ring is split half way and when you tighten those two cap screws it locks the ring in place by spreading the ring slightly. This way you don't loose your preload.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Preload Ring.JPG  

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