[skubajon]

Well I did a quick search and saw modbus settings and some plug-ins. Not sure if they work

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[Al_The_Man]

Let me know if you find one.
Al.

[mactec54]

Well I ordered the rs485 adapter last night with a new spindle. Going that route. I'm thinking it had something to do with settings for ramp up etc when I switched to external control.

I did s10000 m03 and it made it to like 1500 rpm before smoke and that took like 5 or so seconds to even get there

Only thing I think I may have set wrong was pd070 (I think that's the parameter without book in front of me) I had set to 1 which was 1-5v but never changed back to 1-10v when I went back to mach3 control.

Also followed the directions to set max amps to 11 but everywhere else people are saying set to 8.

Anyone have tried and true hy vfd settings for external control using water cooled 2.2kw 400mhz 220 spindle?

10 amps is the Max for these Spindles

Sounds like you did not have the VFD main Parameters set correct, if you did not have your main Parameters set as below, then you can Damage the VFD and Spindle

Huanyang Mactec54
PD000=0 for Parameter unlock ( 1 ) for Parameter Lock

PD001=0 (1 For Remote Control)

PD002=0

PD003=400

PD004=400

PD005=400

PD007=20

PD008=220

PD009=15

PD010=8

PD011=120 (Minimum Setting 120)

PD13= 08 is for Factory reset, Only use this to set VFD to Factory Default Settings

PD014 Accel=12 ( Adjust to suit)

PD015 Deccl=12 (Adjust to suit) ( PD15 is ignored IF PD26=1 Then the Spindle will Coast to a Stop)

PD141=220 ( Motor Rated Voltage ) (120 for VFD Rated for 120v )

PD142=9 ( Motor Max Amps) (Set for your motor Amp Rating 2.2Kw Spindle 9 amp Max)

(Set for your motor Amp Rating 1.5Kw Spindle 7 amp Max)

PD143=2 ( Motor Number of Poles)

PD144=3000 (Max Motor RPM) =3,000= (24,000)

PD002=1 ( For Remote Pot use )

PD70=0 ( This may need to be set to 1 for normal use )

PD72=400

PD73=120

[skubajon]

Long, but these are the settings I used to the t. Minus the pd001 and pd002.

As I said though. Worked like a charm, until I went external control


The VFD parameters
First, reset the VFD to factory settings. You don't know where that thing's been. On the front panel, hit PROG (or PRGM), and then the up and down buttons until you reach PD013. Hit SET. Change the value to 8 using the up and down buttons. Hit SET again. Now your VFD is reset.

For the next parameters, I've renamed them to make some kind of sense. For setting multi-digit values, use up and down to increase and decrease the value, and the >> key to move one digit to the right.

PD001: Command source. Set to 0. 0 means you're controlling the spindle via the front panel controls. 1 means you're using controls that you've wired up to the screw terminals. 2 means you're going to control it using RS-485.

PD002: Speed control source. Set to 1. 0 means you're controlling the speed through the up and down front panel buttons. 1 means you're going to control the speed with either the knob on the front or an external potentiometer. 2 means RS-485.

When PD002 is set to 1, there is also a jumper next to the screw terminals that you have to set. If the jumper is on the right pair, the control is the front panel knob. If the jumper is on the left pair, the control is via an external potentiometer connected to the screw terminals. Make sure the jumper is on the right-side pair.

By the way, I found setting 0 pretty weird. You only get to see the speed as a frequency, not as RPM.

PD003: Default frequency. If PD002 was set to 0, this is the frequency the motor will start running at. The frequency is directly related to the speed. Since we set PD002 to 1, we can leave this alone. But you can set it to something like 200 Hz to start at mid-range.

PD004: Rated frequency: Apparently this is for motors with a fixed frequency. Since the spindle is variable frequency, this setting can be ignored.

PD005 through PD010 set three points on a voltage/frequency curve. As the motor ramps up to your desired speed, it follows this curve. The manual usefully shows three types of curve: constant torque, low torque, and high torque. I've set mine to the values for the constant torque graph (why not).

I think that if you get a VFD with a spindle, the particular model of VFD comes with different factory settings for these depending on the spindle. Which is nice.

PD005: High-end frequency: 400 Hz

PD006: Middle frequency: 2.5 Hz

PD007: Low-end frequency: 0.5 Hz

PD008: High-end voltage: 220 V

PD009: Middle voltage: 15 V

PD010: Low-end voltage: 8 V

PD011: Minimum allowed frequency. Set to 120 Hz. Air-cooled spindles are not meant to stay at low speeds, otherwise they overheat. I understand that water-cooled spindles can go as slow as you want.

Leave the next parameters alone, and skip to...

PD070: Speed control input: Set to 1. This means that the speed will be controlled by an input voltage between 0 and 5V. This is what the front panel knob delivers. 0 means 0-10V. 2 means the control is by an input current between 0 and 20mA. 3 means 4-20mA. 4 is a combination of voltage and current.

PD071: Speed control responsiveness: Leave at the factory setting of 20.

PD072: High-end frequency: Set to 400. This sets the frequency represented by the top end of the speed control.

PD073: Low-end frequency: Set to 120. This sets the frequency represented by the bottom end of the speed control.

Now skip straight to...

PD141: Rated motor voltage: Set to 220V.

PD142: Rated motor current: Set to 11A. Why not 10? Because there will always be some loss in the spindle cable. This compensates for that. But feel free to set it to 10A. The worst that can happen is that your motor loses power at the top end.

PD143: Number of motor poles: Set to 4. This is the number of magnetic poles in the motor. It should be either 2 or 4, and is 4 for the 2.2kW spindle.

PD144: RPM at 50Hz: Set to 3000. Since the max RPM is 24000 at 400Hz, this means that the RPM at 50Hz will be 3000.

That's it

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[mactec54]

Long, but these are the settings I used to the t. Minus the pd001 and pd002.

As I said though. Worked like a charm, until I went external control


The VFD parameters
First, reset the VFD to factory settings. You don't know where that thing's been. On the front panel, hit PROG (or PRGM), and then the up and down buttons until you reach PD013. Hit SET. Change the value to 8 using the up and down buttons. Hit SET again. Now your VFD is reset.

For the next parameters, I've renamed them to make some kind of sense. For setting multi-digit values, use up and down to increase and decrease the value, and the >> key to move one digit to the right.

PD001: Command source. Set to 0. 0 means you're controlling the spindle via the front panel controls. 1 means you're using controls that you've wired up to the screw terminals. 2 means you're going to control it using RS-485.

PD002: Speed control source. Set to 1. 0 means you're controlling the speed through the up and down front panel buttons. 1 means you're going to control the speed with either the knob on the front or an external potentiometer. 2 means RS-485.

When PD002 is set to 1, there is also a jumper next to the screw terminals that you have to set. If the jumper is on the right pair, the control is the front panel knob. If the jumper is on the left pair, the control is via an external potentiometer connected to the screw terminals. Make sure the jumper is on the right-side pair.

By the way, I found setting 0 pretty weird. You only get to see the speed as a frequency, not as RPM.

PD003: Default frequency. If PD002 was set to 0, this is the frequency the motor will start running at. The frequency is directly related to the speed. Since we set PD002 to 1, we can leave this alone. But you can set it to something like 200 Hz to start at mid-range.

PD004: Rated frequency: Apparently this is for motors with a fixed frequency. Since the spindle is variable frequency, this setting can be ignored.

PD005 through PD010 set three points on a voltage/frequency curve. As the motor ramps up to your desired speed, it follows this curve. The manual usefully shows three types of curve: constant torque, low torque, and high torque. I've set mine to the values for the constant torque graph (why not).

I think that if you get a VFD with a spindle, the particular model of VFD comes with different factory settings for these depending on the spindle. Which is nice.

PD005: High-end frequency: 400 Hz

PD006: Middle frequency: 2.5 Hz

PD007: Low-end frequency: 0.5 Hz

PD008: High-end voltage: 220 V

PD009: Middle voltage: 15 V

PD010: Low-end voltage: 8 V

PD011: Minimum allowed frequency. Set to 120 Hz. Air-cooled spindles are not meant to stay at low speeds, otherwise they overheat. I understand that water-cooled spindles can go as slow as you want.

Leave the next parameters alone, and skip to...

PD070: Speed control input: Set to 1. This means that the speed will be controlled by an input voltage between 0 and 5V. This is what the front panel knob delivers. 0 means 0-10V. 2 means the control is by an input current between 0 and 20mA. 3 means 4-20mA. 4 is a combination of voltage and current.

PD071: Speed control responsiveness: Leave at the factory setting of 20.

PD072: High-end frequency: Set to 400. This sets the frequency represented by the top end of the speed control.

PD073: Low-end frequency: Set to 120. This sets the frequency represented by the bottom end of the speed control.

Now skip straight to...

PD141: Rated motor voltage: Set to 220V.

PD142: Rated motor current: Set to 11A. Why not 10? Because there will always be some loss in the spindle cable. This compensates for that. But feel free to set it to 10A. The worst that can happen is that your motor loses power at the top end.

PD143: Number of motor poles: Set to 4. This is the number of magnetic poles in the motor. It should be either 2 or 4, and is 4 for the 2.2kW spindle.

PD144: RPM at 50Hz: Set to 3000. Since the max RPM is 24000 at 400Hz, this means that the RPM at 50Hz will be 3000.

That's it

You really had it messed up

And this is why you Smoked the Spindle, because you did not set the main Parameters correctly, using numbers what you think will work just cost you a Spindle and may be your VFD as well

[skubajon]

Lol yeah I'm guessing by the smell of my entire house that some parameter wasn't correct lol. Those Chinese spindles smell terrible cooked.

Now I don't have any errors flashing on my vfd, it boots fine etc. Only when I hit run passed like 1hz I get the EOLA signal and I have to reset. No dl or anything like that. Question is, do I hook another spindle to this vfd? Or buy new.

I can't seem to figure out what my best option would be. Hitachi or mitsubishi or buy another hy?

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[skubajon]

And those were settings off the half baked maker website using same spindle and vfd..

I guess that's a full baked recipe

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[mactec54]

And those were settings off the half baked maker website using same spindle and vfd..

I guess that's a full baked recipe

Yes I knew that's where you got that information from, I have seen it posted here before, I don't know if he did this on purpose or just does not know any better

I hope you didn't wire your power input like he did, as this to was totally incorrect as well, and will Damage the VFD input power side, which by this fault you have, has already happened

So by using his information he has cost you your drive and your spindle

It does not matter what VFD and Spindle you get, if it is wired and not set correct, the same thing will happen

[skubajon]

No I had my electrician wire it all up. I only followed his settings on that page.



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[mactec54]

No I had my electrician wire it all up. I only followed his settings on that page.

Are I see, in the photo the wiring looks ok, move the Hot wire on S, so you have R & T, connected, set the Parameters what I just supplied, and with no changes, so do a drive reset, and reset the Parameters exactly to what I posted, the VFD may not be dead, only the spindle, But don't test the output as you can damage the Drives without the correct test equipment

Did you check that the spindle was Grounded through Pin 4, you will have to do this with the new one when you get it

[skubajon]

I ran connected a ground to the outside of the spindle to the ground on the vfd itself

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[mactec54]

I ran connected a ground to the outside of the spindle to the ground on the vfd itself

Ok not ideal but would of worked, and kept everyone safe, it should of been inside the shielded cable

[skubajon]

Well if it helps, I prototype firearms for my biz which this machine is gonna help me do...something about serial numbers and ATF haha

So I'm somewhat safe


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[A_Camera]

Are I see, in the photo the wiring looks ok,

Have a look again. To me it looks as the earth from the mains is connected to the box the VFD is installed in and the earth from the motor is connected to the VFD. That is highly dangerous and utterly incorrect unless there is also a connection to the mains earth from somewhere else which can not be seen in the image.

[mactec54]

Have a look again. To me it looks as the earth from the mains is connected to the box the VFD is installed in and the earth from the motor is connected to the VFD. That is highly dangerous and utterly incorrect unless there is also a connection to the mains earth from somewhere else which can not be seen in the image.

But you don't know what you are looking at, when you have installed Hundreds of VFD and repaired them, then you may have a better idea what's going on

It is correctly wired Grounded, not all VFD's have the Ground wires where you think they should be, the Heatsink of the VFD is common to Ground, the Ground wire can be connected anywhere on the Heatsink, check your Bosch Ground/Earth will be the same, it can in reality be connected anywhere on the Heatsink, all the major VFD components that need to be Grounded, sit on the Heatsink are Grounded/Bonded to it

[A_Camera]

But you don't know what you are looking at, when you have installed Hundreds of VFD and repaired them, then you may have a better idea what's going on

It is correctly wired Grounded, not all VFD's have the Ground wires where you think they should be, the Heatsink of the VFD is common to Ground, the Ground wire can be connected anywhere on the Heatsink, check your Bosch Ground/Earth will be the same, it can in reality be connected anywhere on the Heatsink, all the major VFD components that need to be Grounded, sit on the Heatsink are Grounded/Bonded to it

I know how my Bosch probably better than you do and that was not what I was talking about. Sure, if this is the connection to the heat sink than it should be safe, but still breaks your rule of "start grounding". Perhaps it isn't that important after all...

Never the less, the reason I brought up was that it looked like it was just a screw through the plastic into the metal box.

[mactec54]

I know how my Bosch probably better than you do and that was not what I was talking about. Sure, if this is the connection to the heat sink than it should be safe, but still breaks your rule of "start grounding". Perhaps it isn't that important after all...

Never the less, the reason I brought up was that it looked like it was just a screw through the plastic into the metal box.

This has nothing to do with Star Ground, how pieces of equipment Grounds are terminated