[Need TECH Help!]

Here is info i have found so far on pendant.

[Need TECH Help!]

It looks like i might have to bypass the circuit board inside. Been trying to trace wires from switches to pins and the axis selector has a couple axis on each wire/pin? Is this what the pdf on pendant means when it says it is digital? Are they doing this by resistance?

[mmurray70]

It looks like i might have to bypass the circuit board inside. Been trying to trace wires from switches to pins and the axis selector has a couple axis on each wire/pin? Is this what the pdf on pendant means when it says it is digital? Are they doing this by resistance?

My MPG selectors did not have a separate pin for every axis. For example they used something like pin 10 for X, pin 11 for Y and both pin 10 and 11 on at the same time for Z. And they did the same thing for the speed selector. Yours could be more complicated then this but I thought id mention it.

[TomKerekes]

I agree. I think the "encoder board" is converting a bunch of mutually exclusive selections into a binary code to save IO pins. A 4 bit binary code can have 16 unique states so the 6 axis selections plus a few others are encoded into a 4 bit code. I didn't see the pinout coming out of the cable after the encoding.

Based on your model number is seems you have the 24V encoder. That might be a problem. You might need to use resistor dividers to get the voltage down to 3.3V or less.

Regards

[Need TECH Help!]

Would the voltage divider go on both A and B outputs?

[Need TECH Help!]

My MPG selectors did not have a separate pin for every axis. For example they used something like pin 10 for X, pin 11 for Y and both pin 10 and 11 on at the same time for Z. And they did the same thing for the speed selector. Yours could be more complicated then this but I thought id mention it.

Thats what i was getting. Did you find a way to use it as is or just bypass the encoder board?

[Need TECH Help!]

Also here is a picture of pendant encoder board.

[TomKerekes]

Hi Troy,

Would the voltage divider go on both A and B outputs?

Yes. But you would need to determine what type of outputs they are. ie open collector or source 24V or something else.

Thats what i was getting. Did you find a way to use it as is or just bypass the encoder board?

It should be easy to use the encoded value. Just change the part of the MPG C Program that selects the Axis by looking for specific individual Inputs to instead check for a pattern of inputs.

Regards

[mmurray70]

Thats what i was getting. Did you find a way to use it as is or just bypass the encoder board?

Yes as Tom said its farily easy, just tell your mpg program to look for the exact combination of inputs being on and off for each axis. Heres the code for mine as an example:

if (ReadBit(1024) && !ReadBit(1025)) // is x selected?
{
Axis=0;
Factor = Factor * -1219.2;
}
else if (!ReadBit(1024) && ReadBit(1025)) // is y selected?
{
Axis=1;
Factor = Factor * -1219.2;
}
else if (ReadBit(1024) && ReadBit(1025)) // is z selected?
{
Axis=2;
Factor = Factor * -1524.0;
}

Also FWIW, mine did not have a circuit board. The rotary switch output was this way. I think this is fairly common, there was a 6 position rotary switch in my old controller that i considered using for something and that only had like 3 outputs i think. Great way to save some wires and inputs. Good luck with it.

[Need TECH Help!]

Hi Troy,

...... But you would need to determine what type of outputs they are. ie open collector or source 24V or something else.....
Regards

Is there a way to check this? I have not found any info besides it is 24V with A/B channels.

- - - Updated - - -

Yes as Tom said its farily easy, just tell your mpg program to look for the exact combination of inputs being on and off for each axis. Heres the code for mine as an example:

if (ReadBit(1024) && !ReadBit(1025)) // is x selected?
{
Axis=0;
Factor = Factor * -1219.2;
}
else if (!ReadBit(1024) && ReadBit(1025)) // is y selected?
{
Axis=1;
Factor = Factor * -1219.2;
}
else if (ReadBit(1024) && ReadBit(1025)) // is z selected?
{
Axis=2;
Factor = Factor * -1524.0;
}

Also FWIW, mine did not have a circuit board. The rotary switch output was this way. I think this is fairly common, there was a 6 position rotary switch in my old controller that i considered using for something and that only had like 3 outputs i think. Great way to save some wires and inputs. Good luck with it.

Thats interesting. But would it be more fail safe if all switches and buttons had there own input?

[mmurray70]

Is there a way to check this? I have not found any info besides it is 24V with A/B channels.

- - - Updated - - -



Thats interesting. But would it be more fail safe if all switches and buttons had there own input?

As long as you have good connections and wiring you will be fine. My MPG is from a Mazak 510c II Mill and the 6 position switch i mentioned came from a Fadal VMC 4020. If its good enough for those guys its good enough for me.

[Need TECH Help!]

As long as you have good connections and wiring you will be fine. My MPG is from a Mazak 510c II Mill and the 6 position switch i mentioned came from a Fadal VMC 4020. If its good enough for those guys its good enough for me.

True. But still dont know where to begin with tracking down connections, voltages and what ever else and making it work. Cant find any pin outs for this pendant. Think i will keep it simple(for me and bypass the encoder board.

[TomKerekes]

Hi Troy,

Is there a way to check this? I have not found any info besides it is 24V with A/B channels.

Its going to be difficult if you don't have specifications on what you have and how it is supposed to work. But yes you should test it before connecting it to anything. Apply 24V or whatever you think it should have then check the outputs with a voltmeter or scope to see what they do. For example do they toggle between about 24V and 0V?

Regards

[Need TECH Help!]

Hi Troy,

Its going to be difficult if you don't have specifications on what you have and how it is supposed to work. But yes you should test it before connecting it to anything. Apply 24V or whatever you think it should have then check the outputs with a voltmeter or scope to see what they do. For example do they toggle between about 24V and 0V?

Regards

Ok.will do.
I also took the wheel assembly apart and got to the optical encoder. It is a Avago 54, H9701. Data sheet for it says it's 5v.

[Need TECH Help!]

There is a chopper regulator and ATINY 2313V-10SU. The regulator can take 40v.

[Need TECH Help!]

Tom,
Where should the A and B channels of a MPG be wired to when using KFLOP/Kanalog/Konnect? I have found examples of wiring them to KFLOP single ended inputs but not to Kanalog.

Troy

[mmurray70]

Tom,
Where should the A and B channels of a MPG be wired to when using KFLOP/Kanalog/Konnect? I have found examples of wiring them to KFLOP single ended inputs but not to Kanalog.

Troy

Any of the optical inputs on kanalog or konnect will work.

[Need TECH Help!]

Is this because the signals from A and B are already LVTTL?

[Need TECH Help!]

Any of the optical inputs on kanalog or konnect will work.

Is this because the signals from A and B are already LVTTL?

[mmurray70]

Im not really an expert on the fine details, but you almost cant go wrong with the optical inputs. They handle a wide range of voltages and are isolated. Thats what i used and it works fine. You cant use the encoder inputs on top because they are differential and your mpg is single ended.