[Apples]

Is it possible to get long router bits or end mills that have a smooth shaft on both ends. With only the cutting part in the middle of the shaft.

Just thinking about an idea for a project. Where I could mount the endmill or long router bit in two pillow block bearings and have a cutting bit area of say 8"-12".......

Unless I can get a long router bit / end mill bit and simply and the sharpened end will just sit inside a bearing and not be loose. If I just dive from the one end it will be okay, but I would need that support from a bearing at the other end.

[ger21]

Use the head from a jointer or planer. Or are you cutting metal?

[wizard]

Use the head from a jointer or planer. Or are you cutting metal?

Took the words out of my mouth (or finger tips). The cutting area of 8-12" might be an issue though if that amount of area is to be cut all at once. Also one should look at how old horizontal mills where used. The biggest problem I might see would be the need for custom cutters.

[Apples]

lol. thats what i want to make. a thicknesser. just thought this might be a better cheaper option. use a spiral bit and large motor. will be quiet and cut clean.

[aarggh]

lol. thats what i want to make. a thicknesser. just thought this might be a better cheaper option. use a spiral bit and large motor. will be quiet and cut clean.

Unless it's a helluva good setup with a lot of rigidity, grunt and mass behind it, it won't cut that clean, and even with (very expensive) spiral bits it won't be quiet! Not to mention the very powerful motor you'd need to drive it from one end, even an induction motor will make a fair amount of noise without cutting.

Out of curiosity, what will the feed mechanism be?

cheers, Ian

[aarggh]

I've been thinking about this thicknesser project a bit more, and I need to say this is a really, really bad idea. An 8"-12" free rolling cutter assembly of some type supported by pillow bearing blocks, along with any sort of feed mechanism, is asking for a hand to end up either pulled into the cutter, or have the cutter jump over a hand.

Making stuff is good, but for something like this, don't risk your health and safety, if you need a thicknesser for the size cuts your talking, save up and buy one!

I know we get shafted on pricing and the choice is limited here in OZ, but a measly few hundred saved now may mean absolutely nothing if you wind up with a serious injury! I can't stress that enough.

cheers, Ian

[ger21]

The larger the diameter of the cutter, the better the cut you'll get. You'd be better off buying a spiral cutterhead like a Byrd Shelix.
And I agree with the previous poster, that make sure it's very well built, or it could be incredibly dangerous.
This might give you some ideas.

Homemade jointer project

[wizard]

lol. thats what i want to make. a thicknesser. just thought this might be a better cheaper option. use a spiral bit and large motor. will be quiet and cut clean.

If you want cheap buy used! At east that is what we do in the USA, I'm not sure about the used market in your area.

I really have nothing against DIY as long as you make the machine safe. In that regard both jointers and planers are notorious for the dangers of the exposed cutter heads. A jointer is fairly easy, I'm not too sure about the planer though. The problem becomes one of building a solid structure that keeps everything in alignment. I just haven't see a lot of DIY planer designs that look like they where worth the time and effort. I think you need a well established shop to pull it off.

[LeeWay]

If you have a router, you can make a cheap thicknesser safely. On the cheap too.
Router Sled Planer

That can be sized differently.
I can be designed like a bridge. Stationary with spring loaded rollers on each side to hold the material down and all planning done by sliding the materila back and forth by hand. It helps to have a slick surface for that.

It would be rather slow, but certainly safe enough.

[louieatienza]

You could buy a Ryobi thickness planer for less than $300, and you'll have 12-13" of width. Definitely cheaper, if you consider the materials you have to buy, and the hours of designing and sweat equity.