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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    39

    Joe 2006 In GA Build

    Figured I would go ahead and start this thread. As soon as Joe can finish my kit and it gets shipped to me I will be building and taking a lot of pics. I am a totally newbie to CNC Routers (I have a CNC Hot Wire Foam Cutter, but CNC and steppers are about the only thing they have in common LOL).

    I have gotten the aluminum angle and will be ordering some hardware in the next few days. I have lots of questions and would appreciate all the help I can get.

    Looking through the instructions it does not give the diameter of the pipe used for the X Y axis's. Can someone please let me know what the outer diam is. I am going to try and fine it in DOM tube as it is usually smoother than the galvanized pipe I have seen used.

    Any tips or suggestions please feel free to add them in.

    Thanks
    Glenn

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    480
    Hello Glenn,

    Welcome to the club!

    The pipe that is commonly used is gas pipe as follows:

    X-Axis 1" (4 60" pieces)
    Y-Axis 3/4" (2 36" pieces)

    The dimensions are I.D.

    I don't know what the O.D. is but have heard of other's that were thinking about using DOM tube.

    I used black pipe and got it pretty darn smooth by chucking it up in a lathe and using green scratch pads and emery cloth to polish them up. Came out pretty good, however it did take some time to get them like that.

    Look forward to seeing your progress!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    39
    Thanks for the reply. I don't have access to a lathe that would turn 60" pieces to smooth them up. Thats why I was thinking DOM would be smoother. I am going to look on the McMaster Carr web site and see what I can come up with. They have a warehouse about an hour from my house that sells over the counter.

    Thanks again for the response I appreciate it.

    Glenn

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    954
    Sparky did an excellent job running his on his lathe. I wish I had a full 60", I have like 50" max otherwise I would have produced something similar. None the less by hand works too, just requires a little more elbow grease and some sweat . They don't have to be perfect I've noticed though, after putting some hours on the machine it makes its own indentations anyways, so any bumps get eventually worked out more or less.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    480
    Quote Originally Posted by bp092 View Post
    Sparky did an excellent job running his on his lathe. I wish I had a full 60", I have like 50" max otherwise I would have produced something similar. None the less by hand works too, just requires a little more elbow grease and some sweat . They don't have to be perfect I've noticed though, after putting some hours on the machine it makes its own indentations anyways, so any bumps get eventually worked out more or less.
    Thanks Brian

    Ya, a little elbow grease goes a long way! Your pipes turned out very nice as well.

    Glenn, I also read somewhere in one of the posts that someone was going to try using drill rod. A link was posted to a site that sold lengths over the standard 36". I can't remember where but it was pretty spendy!

    Will be watching to see how the DOM works out!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    The Dom pipe works good.

    Rick used them in his build and the O.D. is the same as the Gas Rails

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23546

    Joe

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    39
    If anyone has links to DOM tube with the proper outer dimensions please let me know. I have not been able to find it with the right outside diam. I figured the DOM would be rounder and also have a harder surface than the gas pipe. The 1" Pipe is an actual OD of 1.31"-1.32" 3/4" Pipe is an actual OD of 1.05"

    I will update with a few pics of some parts I got later tonight. I have the Hitachi Router from Lowes (got a killer deal, will explain in the post with pics).

    Also got the 3 AXIS kit from www.hobbycnc.com Ordered it 7:00 a.m. on Saturday, it was shipped by noon on Saturday and I got it on Monday afternoon. Talk about FAST service!

    I also got the aluminum angle from Lowes. Going to order bearings and the hardware in the next week or so.

    How goes the kit cutting Joe! (no pressure, I am just excited!)

    Thanks
    Glenn

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3215
    Look into structural steel, it is also the same dia. and very smooth.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    39

    Smile

    O.k. for anyone interested. Here are some pics of the Router and the details of my getting it.

    I went to Lowes to check out the Router and get a price. They had two on the floor, one in a nice new full color box. Another in a brown box that was kind of beat up looking. I went for the new shiny color box. Then noticed that the old beat up one have a price marked down on it. It was one that someone had bought, used lightly and returned. The bottom plate is barely scratched and there was just a little dust on it. Marked down from $120 to $90.00. Then I had a Home Depot Coupon for 20% off and they matched it. Got the Router for $72.00



    Next up is the aluminum angle that I got to make the bearing slides out of. No big deal here, but I am totally new to this and trying to include everything.

    More to come later
    Thanks
    Glenn
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_6482.jpg   IMG_6486.jpg   IMG_6488.jpg   IMG_6490.jpg  

    IMG_6491.jpg  

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    954
    thats a steal! nice work

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    39
    Thanks. It's one of the best deals I have had in a long time.

    I got the 3 axis Pro package from HobbyCNC and will be taking some pics in the next couple of days. I know some of you would like to see what actually comes in the kit as there are no pictures on the site. I have built a couple of the HobbyCNC boards in the past for my CNC Router so I know they have great instructions and will go together fine.

    Thanks
    Glenn

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    39
    Another quick question for you folks.

    The bolts that are used in this kit. Are they threaded all the way to the head, or do they have the long unthreaded shoulder.

    Thanks
    Glenn

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    134
    If you can find them, the full length threads are better. The bolts I ordered were just threaded part way and I ran out of thread in a couple of spots and had to make some bolts from threaded rod.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    143
    I and others here ordered from Bolt Depot. Easy to use and price seems fair, you can buy all of your bolts full thread from them.

    Dwayne
    Never underestimate the power of Stupid People in large groups.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    39
    Thanks for the info guys. Bolt Depot is where I am looking, just wanted to confirm about full threaded bolts.

    Thanks
    Glenn

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    954
    yeah, I used both as well but had to purchase another order from BD when I realized you need full thread in some areas as mentioned.. BD rocks, and they are cheap cheap cheap.. love their service, and you soon will too

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    480
    Quote Originally Posted by bp092 View Post
    yeah, I used both as well but had to purchase another order from BD when I realized you need full thread in some areas as mentioned.. BD rocks, and they are cheap cheap cheap.. love their service, and you soon will too
    Same here Glenn. I found I had not enought bolt or to much, and in some cases ended up using longer bolts with extra washers. Ordered from Bolt Depot. They have been great to deal with.

    By the way, were you wearing a mask when you stole that router, good score!

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    954
    I more or less ordered the entire order twice, still was cheaper than retail believe it or not .

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    39
    No mask, but I was in uniform!

    LOL



    O.k. I ordered the Bolts from www.boltdepot.com

    The Acme Threaded Rods, nuts, drill rod, couplers and spiders from www.use-enco.com

    The bearings from www.vxb.com and the transformer to finish the power supply from www.alliedelec.com Still gotta make or get a box to house the power supply.

    Next question for me is do most of yall just hardwire the motors and everything, or did you use some type of connector? I was thinking of using Network cable connector (looks like a larger phone plug connector, I don't know the proper name for them) but they have 8 wire ability and if they can take the voltage used in the motors would make a nice clean connection between the motors and the control box. I am about to do some searching but if anyone has some pics or links to posts please do link them.

    Thanks
    Glenn

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1

    Unhappy don't use cat 5 connector

    cat 5 connectors (8 pin network / phone connectors) are not made for that kind of current. they may handle the voltage, but I know (I was a network / phone tech ) that they will not get rid of heat. The problems you may face range from the clip melting and the jack slipping out every once in a while, to starting a fire. never increase the gauge of the cable when working with high draw devices, cat 5 uses 22 gauge, your motor probably uses 16. since I'm new to this myself, I don't really have any advice on what to do, but I know what catches on fire. cat 5 is for signals, not current.

    danny

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