[lcvette]

http://www.kelinginc.net/DigitalDriverWithC10.pdf

this is what i used from Keling's site to wire everything up, it is quite poor for someone of my level of wiring and newbishness. I know my wiring is pretty accurate according to the directions but it was limited in what it wanted me to do with the jumpers, I have tried it both ways and still no avail. I know mach works because i have a plasma table that uses a gecko G540 and it works flawlessly with the port address shown in the ports and pins screen. this is quite confusing... I wish Gecko made a higher amperage G540 style box, it would be a winner for guys like me trying to get their equipment up and running. I literally had 25 minutes of wiring after fabricating the enclosure with the power supply and G540 before i was up and going and tuning in the motors on my plasma table.... ugh...

Chris

[lcvette]

OK.... I found this wiring diagram on CNC4PC's site which is completely different then what i posted above from Keling's site... which is right and which should i be using? extremely confused now.....

http://cnc4pc.com/Tech_Docs/1_C10R10.PDF

it appears that on CNC4PC's diagram, they have the following listed for their wiring:

from 5056 driver:

DIR- to external 5v power Supply GRD
DIR+ to C10 Board Pin 3
PUL- to external 5v power Supply GRD
PUL+ to C10 Board Pin 2


Keling's diagram states:

from 5056D driver:

DIR- to C10 Board Pin 3
DIR+ to comm between pin 2 and 3 on C10 board
PUL- to C10 Board Pin 2
PUL+ to comm between pin 2 and 3 on C10 board

at first glance, that tells me that i would need to switch some settings in mach3 under ports and pins as well as set the jumper on the C10 board between pin 1-2 for GRD.

or do i need to rewire it according to CNC4PC's diagram.... why can't this be made simpler very confusing...

Chris

[DrewSmith007]

I think you understand what I'm saying. So, if I were you, I would change the pin assignments in mach.

Example, if you have the XDir hooked up to pin2 of the bob, set XDir in mach to 9. Do the rest according to the numbers listed above and see if it works...

[lcvette]

gonna try that right now! think i understand correctly now... will report back in a few minutes with results.

[doorknob]

OK.... I found this wiring diagram on CNC4PC's site which is completely different then what i posted above from Keling's site... which is right and which should i be using? extremely confused now.....

http://cnc4pc.com/Tech_Docs/1_C10R10.PDF

it appears that on CNC4PC's diagram, they have the following listed for their wiring:

from 5056 driver:

DIR- to external 5v power Supply GRD
DIR+ to C10 Board Pin 3
PUL- to external 5v power Supply GRD
PUL+ to C10 Board Pin 2


Keling's diagram states:

from 5056D driver:

DIR- to C10 Board Pin 3
DIR+ to comm between pin 2 and 3 on C10 board
PUL- to C10 Board Pin 2
PUL+ to comm between pin 2 and 3 on C10 board

at first glance, that tells me that i would need to switch some settings in mach3 under ports and pins as well as set the jumper on the C10 board between pin 1-2 for GRD.

or do i need to rewire it according to CNC4PC's diagram.... why can't this be made simpler very confusing...

Chris

The confusion between the two sets of directions for hooking up the DIR +/- and the PUL +/- pins stems from the fact that there are actually two different ways to hook up the optoisolated inputs of the 5056D driver to the outputs from the C10 board, and the C10 is flexible enough to support both types of hookups depending on the jumper selections that you make.

One way to hook it up (following the CNC4PC instructions) is to use the step and direction signals via the PUL+ and DIR+ inputs to directly drive the optoisolator inputs (namely, by supplying current to the LED inside each optoisolator from the step and direction signals). With that hookup, the minus terminal of the LED inside each optoisolator is connected to ground through the PUL- and DIR- terminals.

The other way to hook it up (following the Keling instructions) is to supply current to the LED inside each optoisolator directly from the +5 volt power supply, by hooking the PUL+ and DIR+ terminals to the common pin (and setting the C10 jumper to apply +5 volts to the common pin). With the Keling hookup, the step and direction signals "sink" the LED current to ground to turn on the LED (by providing a return path to ground for the LED current that comes from the +5 volt power to the PUL+ and DIR+ terminals), or else they "float" the output up to +5 volts, which turns off the LED. So, the signals from the C10 must be connected to the PUL- and DIR- terminals of the driver.

Some breakout boards are designed in a way where they can only work with one or the other of the hookup styles. The C10 is flexible enough to work either way.

Hope that was somewhat clear.

[lcvette]

Thanks for that tidbit, very helpful.

OK, I have movement albeit extremely slow so i think my dip switches may need some adjusting. I'm using the stock lead screws so it appears that they are 10TPI. need to find out how to set the dipswitches now so i can get some more speed.

the motor output pin config is set as keling recommends and X and Y move as they are supposed to, my Z axis is acting wierd, page up and page down both move the Z axis in the downward direction, that can't be right any thoughts?

and any insights on the dip switches? here is the setup i have:

Keling 570oz/in motors
5056D drivers
C10 BOB
48v 12.5a power supply
5v power supply for C10 BOB

ok.. go...

Chris

[DrewSmith007]

The speed issue can be due to your steps/in value as well. If you have a 200 steps/rev motor, 10 tpi leadscrews and the driver set to full stepping, that would give you:

200*10*1 = 2000 Steps/inch

If you're half stepping, it would be:

200*10*2 = 4000 Steps/inch

There is also a velocity and acceleration profile that needs to be set, and it may be set low.

As far as the PgUp/PgDown issue, I think you can invert the Z axis Dir from High active to Low active, or vice versa, on the pin assignment page. The motor may also be mis-wired.

[doorknob]

the motor output pin config is set as keling recommends and X and Y move as they are supposed to, my Z axis is acting wierd, page up and page down both move the Z axis in the downward direction, that can't be right any thoughts?

If you have a multimeter, check the voltage on the DIR- pins of each axis as you change the direction that you are jogging the axis (based on the Keling hookup). The direction pin should be a steady 5 volt "high" signal if you are jogging an axis in one direction, and a steady 0 volt "low" signal if you are jogging in the opposite direction.

If you see it working that way on the X and Y axes, but it is not changing voltage when you change direction on the Z axis, then I would first double-check the Z-axis wiring (including verifying that you have connected the DIR- pin for the Z axis to the right terminal of the C10), and then make sure that the Mach3 direction pin configuration is correct for the Z axis.

Then if you get the Z axis direction changing properly, you can turn your attention to the DIP switch settings.

[lcvette]

according to the manual, i have the following dip switches set:

sw1 - on
sw2 - on
sw3 - on
sw4 - off
sw5 - off
sw6 - on
sw7 - on
sw8 - on

that is supposed to give me 400 steps per rev. according to the manual if i read it correctly.

and i took into account 10tpi on the screws and set the turns per to 4000 steps per inch.

the max speed it allows at that level is 375ipm. but it is moving at like 10ipm if that. the other odd thing is my dro is reading that the machine is moving 50 inches for 1 actual inch of movement. not sure why or where i can go, i have already set the units to inches under the config tab and in the setting window. any thoughts? this is seriously difficult but im sure there are simple solutions.

I will try changing those settings for the Z movement and see what happens.

Chris

[lcvette]

If you have a multimeter, check the voltage on the DIR- pins of each axis as you change the direction that you are jogging the axis (based on the Keling hookup). The direction pin should be a steady 5 volt "high" signal if you are jogging an axis in one direction, and a steady 0 volt "low" signal if you are jogging in the opposite direction.

If you see it working that way on the X and Y axes, but it is not changing voltage when you change direction on the Z axis, then I would first double-check the Z-axis wiring (including verifying that you have connected the DIR- pin for the Z axis to the right terminal of the C10), and then make sure that the Mach3 direction pin configuration is correct for the Z axis.

Then if you get the Z axis direction changing properly, you can turn your attention to the DIP switch settings.

awesome catch! rechecked the voltages and found that my Z driver had one loose wire, got it connected and rechecked the rest and now the Z axis moves up and down as supposed to. somewhere i am seriously down on power though, it may be that the motors are wired incorrectly? i followed kelings diagram and it was color coded but maybe i should have double checked the motor wiring colors to be positive?

hmmm.. will look into that now but if you guys know another place to try in Mach3 I am standing by!

Thanks for all your help on this!

Chris

[lcvette]

OK, i went back through and doublechecked my wiring and the color coding in kelings diagrams matches up perfectly to whats in their motor specifications. and my wiring from the motors through the 4 pin connectors and to the drivers is exactly as it is supposed to be. soo, it must be a setting in mach. the Z axis seems to have some trouble going up and i have it belt reduced 2:1. i would imagine the 570's should be able to manage moving it in the up direction and it may be a problem related to why everything is moving so slow?

THanks!

Chris

[DrewSmith007]

Sorry if I missed it, but what machine are you converting? I'm pretty sure the 570's aren't powerful enough to raise my rf45 clone's head at 2:1. Power is not probably your issue if you are getting 50 inches DRO to 1 inch table movement.

Are your X & Y 1:1 pulleys or direct connected?

Is it exactly 50 inches DRO to 1 inch table, or was that a guestimate?
It sounds to me like you are probably 8th-stepping on the drivers, giving you 1 step for every 8 pulses sent.

[doorknob]

according to the manual, i have the following dip switches set:

sw1 - on
sw2 - on
sw3 - on
sw4 - off
sw5 - off
sw6 - on
sw7 - on
sw8 - on

that is supposed to give me 400 steps per rev. according to the manual if i read it correctly.

and i took into account 10tpi on the screws and set the turns per to 4000 steps per inch.

the max speed it allows at that level is 375ipm. but it is moving at like 10ipm if that. the other odd thing is my dro is reading that the machine is moving 50 inches for 1 actual inch of movement. not sure why or where i can go, i have already set the units to inches under the config tab and in the setting window. any thoughts? this is seriously difficult but im sure there are simple solutions.

I will try changing those settings for the Z movement and see what happens.

Chris

Just a wild guess - Are you sure that your DIP switch settings for SW5, SW6, SW7 and SW8 are really off, on, on, on respectively?

If by chance they were actually on, off, off, off then your drive would be set to 100X microstepping.

Also: Do you have a KL-5056 or a KL-5056D? The DIP switch settings for the KL-5056 are different from the KL-5056D.

[lcvette]

hahaha... you nailed it doorknob... the drivers a 5056D's and there arent any on/off labels so i "assumed" that on was towards the front of the driver, i was looking at it and decided to try it mirrored from what it was and poof, the steppers came to life, now i have them tuned in and am seeing 1:1 dro to table movement and i am able to raise and lower the z-axis around 40ipm and the x and y are running at 50ipm. finally some joy! I have some tight spots on the Z-axis probably from poorly fitted ways. i spent the last hour cleaning them from all the cosmoline and oiled them down and it seems to have helped a good bit.

The machine is a G0704, the X and Y are direct driven with oldham couplers and the Z is timing belt driven with a 2:1 reduction. I have a larger pulley to take it to 3:1 if needed, i will see how it runs under a cutting load and make that call. Now for some other learning for the backlash comp and trying to run a non cutting simulation with sheetcam on a 2.5 D part to make sure I have a handle on that!

Whoo hoo!

Chris

[doorknob]

Glad that I could help...

[lcvette]

Doorknob and Tobybirch007,

I just want to thank both of you so much for the time you took in helping me this afternoon to get this mill moving around as it is supposed to! I just ran my first spindle off simulation for a part i need to make and the machine performed flawlessly! I will start tomorrow trying to nail down the antibacklash and i still need to tram the head but I am a huge step closer to actually making some parts now thanks to the two of you! very much appreciated and i will certainly pass what i have learned from you on to others who need help!

Sincerely,

Chris

[DrewSmith007]

Glad I could help as well. I remember clearly how frustrating it was to figure out. Too bad I didn't remember that clearly how I fixed it!

[nicotom]

Hi everyone,

I read this topic. It is very interesting.
I am in a similar situation but i am working with kl-4030.

KL-4030 Driver, Kl23H286-20-8B Motor, C10 BOB, 36V power supply (for the driver), 5v 1000mA power supply (for the C10).


FORGET this !!!
I tried something new and it works !!!

If someone have the same config as mine and the same issues, my topic is here :
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/usb_rs...ge_issues.html

So ... no need help (not yet) !!

Bye