[durtydogg]

I have lasercut 5.0 & have loaded into coreldraw. Everything seems to work except when I do text. Whenever I do text it appears distorted, almost as if it is double engraved text.Has anyone else had this problem or know how to fix it? also bitmaps do not seem to work either..have to import into lasercut as well

[sdgalloway]

If you do not get a solution contact me off line. [email protected]

[SkipW]

I have lasercut 5.0 & have loaded into coreldraw. Everything seems to work except when I do text. Whenever I do text it appears distorted, almost as if it is double engraved text.Has anyone else had this problem or know how to fix it? also bitmaps do not seem to work either..have to import into lasercut as well

I've found I get better results if I don't even try to use the Corel controls for running the laser. It's a extra step, but anything I want to vector cut is saved as an .ai file in Corel, then I import it into LC5. Same with engraving text. I convert it into a bitmap in Corel and import it into LC5. Perfect results.

Where you trying to vector cut letters or were you trying to engrave text?

[dmeyer]

When you do lettering in CorelDraw you must first convert lettering to curves and export this as a DXF file. Also some software has a hard time converting multiple rows of words and I found that I must do wording one line at a time.

[Pilon_1]

I have been using Corel Draw for many years now in the sign making field. With my plotter I have to convert text to curves, reduce nodes, and groupe lines together. Sence I have been using later versions of Corel, especialy 13, work must be free of outlines or it distorts or double cut.

[dmeyer]

It seems that the odd versions 7, 9, 11 work better than the even versions when you clean up artwork. Sometimes I go back to 'ol reliable 7.0. I've never had a problem with this version. I too made signs and had to convert as a .cmx and open it in two other softwares before I could cut....whew. Some things have improved. We use Inventor, Solidworks etc... at my school but I still use Corel for simple artwork if possible.

[Pierke]

I use also Coreldraw for signmaking for many years. Its a great progr. If you want to export a text, then first you fill the tekst with a color (not using white color!), then convert to curves, then export, there is probably no more problems.
Pierke

[SkipW]

Since this thread was about LaserCut, I thought I'd post something that I just realized yesterday. If you type text in LaserCut, you can either vector cut it or engrave it, your choice.

I was probably the only one who didn't know this. I thought that since the text in LC5 always appears as vector outlines, you could only vector cut it, and to engrave text it had to be imported as a 1 bit bitmap from Corel or some other program. Silly me....

Any other LaserCut5 users have any tips and tricks to share?

[jmg]

So then.....how do you make it (LaserCut5) do either vector text or engraving text? Is it when you have to select whether it's going to be TrueFont or SHX when the dialog box pops up?

Also, on a similar yet different note, have you ever had a job where you had a vector dwg (like AutoCad) for cutting, but also wanted to include an engraving? (for example: cutting a part outline with maybe a few holes in it, plus an engraved photo). If so, do you mind sharing how?

One last question. If I want to engrave a photo on a piece of wood, how do I get rid of the outline (box made up of lines around the bitmap). I guess what I need is a way of "washing out the edge" of the photo.

Thanks,
jmg

[SkipW]

So then.....how do you make it (LaserCut5) do either vector text or engraving text? Is it when you have to select whether it's going to be TrueFont or SHX when the dialog box pops up?

Also, on a similar yet different note, have you ever had a job where you had a vector dwg (like AutoCad) for cutting, but also wanted to include an engraving? (for example: cutting a part outline with maybe a few holes in it, plus an engraved photo). If so, do you mind sharing how?

One last question. If I want to engrave a photo on a piece of wood, how do I get rid of the outline (box made up of lines around the bitmap). I guess what I need is a way of "washing out the edge" of the photo.

Thanks,
jmg

I'm using LaserCut 5.0 and not Corel with the print driver. To either vector cut or engrave text, select the text icon (A) and choose the text size and I always choose TTF, then type the text, then OK. If it looks like what you want, press and hold CNTRL then also press P. (or click the printer icon at the top). This opens the Laser Output window with the Layer tab selected. If you haven't assigned the text a different color, you'll see a black square. Double click it and the Set Work Mode window comes up. Choose Cut or Engrave and set the speed/power/(and scan gap if you chose engrave). Then click OK.

You can close the Laser Output window now if you want, and press CNTRL and hit B to simulate. If you chose engrave, it should fill the text. If you chose cut, it should show you the cut path.

I know what you mean about wanting to engrave an object, then cut it out. I haven't figured out a good way to import vector drawings and bitmaps all in one shot. Like when I make those small music boxes like is shown on the Epilog Sample Club site. I have to import the vectors to cut, then separately import and place the bitmaps. I give the bitmaps each a different color (select one and click a color from the bottom of LaserCut), then in the Laser Output window, you can move the colors up or down so you can engrave them in the order that you want. The top color engraves or cuts first, the second color is second... etc. (also, you can click on the colors to adjust speed and power and scan gap) I usually leave the vector cut lines black and put black as the last color, unless there are holes I want to cut out before it cuts out the perimeter, then I make the holes a different color and put them next to last on the color list. I believe though that the software is smart enough to do inside cuts before outside cuts, but I color the inside cuts and place them before the outside cuts just to be on the safe side.

I haven't had a problem with engraving anything and having it engrave a box around it. Maybe before you engrave a picture, can you open it in a photo editor and run an eraser around the edge and fade it like you mentioned?

One more thing, I have that LC6090 from WK Laser. I didn't like the laser going back to home all the time. I wanted it to stay where I left it when I shut it off. I went into the machine options and unchecked the Auto Datum check box. After I did that, I couldn't send files to the laser anymore. I guess there is a bug in the software that is maybe fixed in LC 5.1? I emailed WK about it and they told me to set the start speed to 8.0 instead of what it was (don't remember now...20.0 maybe?) and that fixed the problem.

So now when I import anything into LC, I tell it to Center To Table and it always puts stuff right in the middle of the LC screen on the computer. If you are just doing one piece that you want to vector cut and engrave something in the middle of it, The vector is centered and the imported bitmap is centered. And wherever I move the laser head on the laser, that's the center point of where it's going to start. I really like that "Test" feature on the laser also because after you send the file to the laser, you can hit test and easily check the material alignment. That's probably not the best or smartest way to do things, but it works for me right now doing one of's. If I was doing multiple items in a jig, I'd probably start from the home position.

HTH,
Skip

[jmg]

Hi Skip,

Firstly, let me say thank you for your in depth response!...it's much appreciated. (and it helped me out!)

I should have mentioned what I have: it's a Rabbit HX1290SE laser with LaserCut5.0. I also use CorelDraw12, and AutoCad 2004.

I've found that with AutoCad I can send vectors out to the laser through the LaserCut (LC from now on) driver in AutoCad. I can't send any text though.
Similarily with Corel I don't use it for drawing (mechanical items, for example drawing a gasket, or a flat bracket, etc.) so after much time (several days of trial and error) I now have a system for drawing using Corel/AutoCad and then sending it through LC to the laser. I haven't had any problems thus far except for the ones I asked you about. I got the one with the box around the photo resolved. Tomorrow (I'm too tired to keep going now) I'm going to try a combo vector plus engraving (raster) file. I think it can be done, however I'll know for sure once I put it to the test.

Somewhere here at cnczone, there is a terrific writeup (it might have even been you that wrote it) about understanding the "gap" number and how it affects the final product when engraving.

Thanks for the tip on centering the files, it's certainly a time saver.

Does your machine have a red laser for lining up the start point (origin) of your work?

jmg

[SkipW]

Hi jmg,

Glad to be of some help.

No, that wasn't me who so thoroughly described the scan gap. It was glintid, and for those who missed it, it's here in post #4. That really helped many of us, I think.

For a long time I used to type text in Corel, convert it to curves, then convert it to a bitmap, then import the .bmp into LC. It engraved great that way but it was like taking the long way to the shortcut.

I think I have version .01 beta of the red dot from WK. It's just a red diode mounted onto the side of the laser head tube at about a 45 degree angle, and it pivots. It works great when and if I use the 100mm lens that I have, because the nozzle is farther away from the work piece. Using the 50mm lens though, it's not mounted in an ideal location.

Yes, if you figure out how to import a vector and bitmap in one shot, please fill us in.

Take care,
Skip

[Huahahahahaha]

better you type in corel. then convert it to curve.
after that save as adobe illustrator 7.
open that file on lasercut.
i already use it, and looks great. it could engrave and cutting.
you could see on of my sample on other thread.

[jmg]

Skip, thanks for steering me straight....many thanks to glintid for a very enlighting writeup about "gap" settings!

I have the red laser mounted at an angle as well. I was thinking of taking it, and the mounting bracket, off the nozzle and rerouting it and it's two wires back to the laser tube opening and making a holder for it, similar to but not quite like, the one at www.emissiontechnologies.com

I tried to attach a photo but if it doesn't work, you can go to that site to look at some of the pictures and look at the end of the Co2 tube closest to the mirror for how the red laser is attached.

There are 2 benefits to making this modification.

1) You can still enjoy the benefit of knowing where your start point (origin) for your work piece is, regardless of your focus length, and height of work piece, since the red laser is reflected off the mirrors and through the lens just like the Co2 beam.
2) This positioning of the red laser will now allow you to align your mirrors easily instead of having to do "trial burns" (this is the big draw for me to make the mod)

Note: If I understand what I've read about the beam combiner lens, one side reflects (red laser), and the other side allows the Co2 beam to pass through, thus combining the two beams into one path. The only thing is that (again, I stand to be corrected here) the Co2 beam is decreased in strength by approximately 10%. I don't like losing any strength, never mind 10%, so I have something different in mind when it comes to the lens.

Here's what I'm considering: (these steps are only done whenever the Co2 laser tube is changed, or of course when this modification is made)

1) assuming the red dot laser has been fastened in place on the Co2 laser, remove mirror closest to the laser tube (you may have to remove the mirror holder, depending on make of holder)
2) remove the small steel cabinet wall panel (4 screws) adjacent to the first mirror so the laser can fire straight out through the cabinet. (sounds scary...but stay tuned!)
3) Set up a piece of cardboard (4'x4' should do) at least 8 feet away in line with where you think the laser will burn. After placing the cardboard in position, do not touch or move this cardboard until this entire procedure is complete.
4) Pulse the laser once to burn a dot on the cardboard. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES - THE WRAPAROUND TYPE - SO NO ACCIDENTAL STRAY BEAMS CAN ENTER YOUR EYES FROM ANY ANGLE!!!
5) Align the red dot laser so it shines on the burn mark.
6) Replace the cabinet panel, and the mirror...you're done!

The red laser is now aligned and is useful for showing you where the start point (origin) of your work piece is.

Also, it is now useable for lining up your mirrors. I have made AutoCad drawings for cutting "bullseyes" out of cardboard for each mirror. Just set them in front of each of the mirrors and start tweaking your mirror screws until the red dot hits the bullseye of each mirror. Start at the mirror closest to the laser tube and work your way to the nozzle.

Note: although the red laser is supposed to be eye-safe, you should take precautions not to take a direct beam hit into your eyes.

I'll let you know if I meet with success with the vector/bitmap file. Thanks Huahahahahaha for the heads up, I'll see what comes of it.

Best regards,
jmg

[SkipW]

Cool, sounds like a plan with the red dot.

I see how the Emission Tech red dot is mounted, vertically on the end of the tube, and they use a beam combiner lens like you said that reflects the red dot but still allows the laser to pass through. I don't like the thoughts of losing 10% power either.

When you get your setup perfected, let us know and post some pics.

Huah, does your Rabbit have a red dot pointer? If so, how is yours mounted? Is it the same as jmg's?

Thanks guys,
Skip

[Huahahahahaha]

yes, i have red dot laser. and same with you. have an angle mounting.
i think they make this angle with a reason. first to determine start poin, and second to determine exact focus lense.
i already try to cut and graving outside the focus ( 7cm from the lense )
it's could graving, but with big diameter of beam.

about jmg, idea. i think it's good. but you still need to know the distance between lense and material work.
if out of focus your engraving result will be bad.

[jmg]

Huah, I agree. The focus length still has to be set, however, I never used the red dot as the sole means to set the length. I was supplied with a piece of plexiglas that was 41mm square (1/8" thick). This is set on the workpiece, on edge, and then the table is raised/lowered until the top of the plexiglas square is the same height as the joint (where lens is) in the nozzle. Then it is in focus.

I'll post some pics and more detail about a different idea for the beam combiner lens itself when it happens. Right now I'm just setting up this small business (I have a full time job) on the side for me and my wife, so there are lots of things "on the front burner" so to speak to get done first. The mods will be a short while away yet.

As my dad would say..."keep me posted"
jmg

[jopie]

Dear engraving friends. We are cutting and engraving for a while now and with the mpc03 card and softdog software we have lasercut 5.0 working. The only problem is when we start Corel draw 12, where we make the designs, the laser output keeps asking for the softdog software. It says to plug it in or re-install it. We have tried everything and especially because everything works fine it seems very strange that coreldraw has such a big problem.

I hope anyone out there has the cure for this peculiar problem, Thanks in advance.

btw, the extra step works fine, but it would save some time to use coreldraw directly.

[Pierke]

Hello Jopie,
i do not have a solution for your problem, but i wand to now is what operating system you are using. I tried to install the softdog on XP, install lasercut 5.0 , also with MPC03, but the laserpower is always the same...engraving, cutting.
Do you now whats the problem?
Pierke

[dvdlock]

Hi Guys,

I've been deliberating how to mount a red laser pointer to my LaserScript (Rabbit) laser for some time. I've been through the 'mounting on the side of the lens head' but didn't like it.
I also toyed with the idea of plugging a laser pointer holder into the opening in the head (just before the last mirror). The idea being to just plug it in to aid setting up the work piece then taking out prior to lasering. This failed because laser pointer beam has to enter the last mirror in precisely the same spot as the CO2 laser beam. Not as easy as it sounds.

I really like the beam combiner idea and would be interested to know where I could obtain one. jmg's idea for alignment sounds just right.

On to the .bmp and vector issue.

Import your .bmp to LC. by default this is assigned to the black layer. Now using the vector drawing tools on the left, select the rectagle tool. Click once on the top left of the .bmp, drag your mouse to the bottom right corner and click again. The corners will snap to grid on the .bmp. Before you do anything else assign it a different layer by clickin on the blue button at the bottom. On the cutting list set the black to engrave and the blue to cut.
Now as skip pointed out, double click the colour to the the speed/power perameters.

For the scangap, I have also have a little chart. I engraved it on to some laser laminate and stuck it to my control panel. A quick glace at the chart tell me the scangap setting for the .bpm that I already know the dpi of.
I attached a copy for those who would like to use it.

If you want to cut some holes as well, Click on the circle tool, draw your circle, on the top menu click on Draw, then size, enter the size you want the circle to be in the x and y boxes. while the circle is still selected, assign it to another layer (the next colour along at the bottom) and then position it. In the cutting list you can change the order in which each layer is executed, so you can raster the image first. Cut the holes second and cut around everything last.

You can raster, vector and if you wish, raster again, all in one operation.

If you have two .bmp's but want to use different speed/power/scangap for each, just import them both and assign each to a different layer.

Another tip that I find useful. I wand to raster an image and then cut it our say 1" bigger all round. To make sure the image is centre of the cut-out area, import .bmp, on left side there is a button for 'centre to table'. It's an icon like the justify button in MS Word. Then use the vector tool to draw the rectangle of the size required. click the 'centre to table' button again. Both .bmp and vector rectangle are perfectly cantered.

Another useful tool I use a lot is the Array tool. On the top menu I think it's Laser then Array (not at my machine at the moment). If you are making acrylic key fobs, for example a small image in an oval shape fob and a hole for the split ring, you can array the key fob job for say 5 x 5 so you can cut 25 out in one operation. It will even automatically fill the whole sheet with them for you. You just need to input what size gap you want between rows and columns.

Something else i'd like to share with you. I found it a real pain in the but to go round switching on and off the cooling pump, extractor fan, air assist etc. each time I wanted to engrave. And each of these things was taking up all my power outlets.
So I decided to install a second power inlet to the machine and retro fit additional outlets for all these bits of kit. I used an existing unused 4" hole
on the machine which had a fan grill fitted (I think it was for the left hand drive model ).



I installed on/off switches on the control panel so it's now a breeze to switch them all on and off.



I have:
1. Cooling pump

2. Extractor Fan

3. Air Assist - I have installed the small compressor inside the left side of the machine cabinet. It pretty much sits on a 1" thin piece of foam which had adhesive one side. Works well and I'm not tripping over it all the time.

4. Heater - Because my machine is back up against my garage door along with the water tank on the floor, in the winter it could possibly freeze. Not too good for the glass laser tube full of water eh? So I fitted an aquarium heater in the cooling water tank. I leave this on along with the cooling pump on the days/nights it's likely to get that cold.

5. Axis Control - I was tired of having to unplug the y-axis connector from the control board and then plug in the rotary table plug. So I installed a 4-pole changeover switch and a socket at the front right side at the side of the table. The hole was already in the panel and was exactly the right size. All I need to do now it lift in the rotary table, plug it in and flick the switch. Easy!





I've got a few more hints and tips but I think this post has gone on enough for now. Don't want you falling asleep on us.

Regards

Dave.