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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    9

    Material for mould

    Hi,
    I need to choose material for making mould for laminating carbon composite. Mould will be machined with CNC machine from 3D ProEngineer file. I heard something about ,,synthetic wood,, or ,,woodplast,, or MDF. I need less expensive material then AL Alloy but stiff enough.

    Thanks

    Mike

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    86
    I've made molds out of this stuff before: http://www.freemansupply.com/RenShape5440Stylin.htm

    You can polish it out so that it is relatively shiney. I've used this to make molds for vacuum bagging and compression molds with nice results.

    It is not very cheap, though.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    170
    Hey Mike,
    I’ve been making molds for a local composite shop; I’ve used a product called Elfoam made by
    Elliott foams (www.elliottfoam.com 1-800-545-1213). It comes in different densities and standard sheets sizes of 4’*8’ up to 12” thick. I also saw an article on electroless nickel plating of foam for mold use. It looked very smooth and is supposed to give the long wear characteristics of nickel.
    Of course if you’re looking to produce small quantities of parts you could just apply a resin finish over the foam.
    From a cost perspective, it’s hard to beat MDF. If you go that route, I’d suggest using a double-refined MDF; it’s just a couple of bucks more that “standard” MDF and the finish quality is worth it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    86
    How does MDF react when you put some heat to it, like if it were going to be parked in a 250F oven for 30 minutes during a post-cure?
    Is it relatively stable, or does it fart out bubbles that can get trapped in the layup?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    9
    Thanks for help guys. I will probably use MDF.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1810
    RenShape is good stuff and so is impregnated mahogany.

    MDF will be trouble - depending on your release and your methods. If you are sure the geometry is good and want to make a lasting mold, use something other than MDF. Otherwise, MDF will be fine for a proof mold, maybe. The 'grain' is difficult to seal. You will see the texture on your part surface.

    For almost all composites a master is made and the tooling is pulled from the master. This allows to make a non-pourous mold surface from a slightly pourous master.

    Scott
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

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