[JerryBurks]

Looks good! Do you want to install bellows to protect the x-screw and rails? If not, you could do the "revolving curtain" dust cover that I used for my x-axis mechanicals. I can not see it all on the picture but I believe you have some clearance under the table that might allow for that.

[louieatienza]

Looks good! Do you want to install bellows to protect the x-screw and rails? If not, you could do the "revolving curtain" dust cover that I used for my x-axis mechanicals. I can not see it all on the picture but I believe you have some clearance under the table that might allow for that.

Thanks Jerry... I was thinking more in the lines what you have on your gantry bridge, with the retractable bellows. I have some old pull-down shades that I thought might work for that. My other thought was to machine a wide groove or flat under the fixture plate for a shield to pass under, but then the table wouldn't be supported in the middle. I guess I'll be designing it as I go.

[louieatienza]

Pic 1: The last thing I needed to make were the stepper plate and bearing block assemby for the Z. I actually made the pieces wrong the first time because I used a .250" gage block for measuring, added it to my measurements, then for some dumb reason, forgot which side the plate was on and subtracted what I added! Aaaaaarrrgggh... I sounded like a pirate for an hour.

Anyway the bearing block is two radial bearings, with a very thin spacer between the inner races, and very slightly preloaded with three SHCS setscrews in a circular pattern around the outer race. Couldn't pic it with the cell cam, so will have to use the other cam with the macro setting. The screw is held in position with a DumpsterCNC threaded collar on the bottom, and the spider coupling hub on top; there is a brass spacer between the bearing and coupling.

Pic 2: The leadnut block now attached to the saddle. Because of the tight clearance I had to use flat head machine screws.

Pic 3: Closeup of Z axis assembly. I might rotate the stepper so that the connector faces left instead of back depending on how the e-chain works out.

Pic 4: The machine now, all mechanicals done.

Pic 5: The Z axis is made for easy disassembly when needed by simply unscrewing the leadscrew (and vice versa.) The saddle itself can be removed, though not so easily with 16 bolts!

Pic 6: This is what the machine looks like after 10 beers, listening to the crazy winds blow...

Pic 7: Pic showing the table at extreme travel.. I allowed for slight overtravel in the X (gantry) axis.

I have a control box on the way, and all the components here, so will be fun for me as this is my first control box build... I was very fortunate here as the storm ended up being just gusts with periodic showers, but there are a lot here with no power, and some that have lost a lot, all, even their lives. My thoughts and prayers are out to those affected, and hope we recover from this soon...

[louieatienza]

It's alive!

DIY HomeMade Mini CNC Router Engraver Mill Test Run - YouTube

After the video was filmed, I was able to tweak the max rapids to 275ipm and max accel to 60in/m/m. Since those speeds happen only intermittently I'm not too worried. The machine did start to stall occasionaly at around 320ipm; these Danaher steppers are capable of handling up to 72V PSU and 3000rpm max, though I think the limiting factors here will be the leadscrew/leadnut combination. I definitely don't need more speed with a machine this size.

My last tasks with the machine before calling it done are setting up an enclosure for the SmoothStepper board, and prepping and installing t-slot for the table. I have some lengths of 5" wide t-slot. An enclosure for its final resting place. And some sort of dust collection system and mist system.

[CarveOne]

Looks really good Louie. Makes nice sounds too - suitable for some CNC music videos. I vote for Stairway to Heaven as the first music video.

You're going to enjoy using this machine.

[louieatienza]

Looks really good Louie. Makes nice sounds too - suitable for some CNC music videos. I vote for Stairway to Heaven as the first music video.

You're going to enjoy using this machine.

Thanks CarveOne.... Though now I'm experiencing an issue.

This never happened last night, but now when I run the same exact program, it gets about 700 lines or so then the G540 faults. I've checked everything, but can't seem to find the source of the problem. Any ideas?

[CarveOne]

Thanks CarveOne.... Though now I'm experiencing an issue.

This never happened last night, but now when I run the same exact program, it gets about 700 lines or so then the G540 faults. I've checked everything, but can't seem to find the source of the problem. Any ideas?

Is it heatsinked? Try aiming a small table fan at it to see if it makes any difference. It could help identify if that has anything to do with it. It should not be faulting due to overvoltage unless the PSU is set a little high or is going out of regulation for some reason. My PSU (Meanwell) has a trim pot that allows turning it up or down a few volts. You could set it for 46 or 47vdc and see if it continues to fault. These would be for troubleshooting efforts, not for a final solution.

I have mine mounted in an old 900 va UPS case, with a big heatsink and a 120vac fan inside. I run four 380 oz steppers.

[louieatienza]

Is it heatsinked? Try aiming a small table fan at it to see if it makes any difference. It could help identify if that has anything to do with it. It should not be faulting due to overvoltage unless the PSU is set a little high or is going out of regulation for some reason. My PSU (Meanwell) has a trim pot that allows turning it up or down a few volts. You could set it for 46 or 47vdc and see if it continues to fault. These would be for troubleshooting efforts, not for a final solution.

I have mine mounted in an old 900 va UPS case, with a big heatsink and a 120vac fan inside. I run four 380 oz steppers.

Thanks c1. The G540 box from DeepGroove1 is not heatsinked, though it is bolted to the aluminum chassis of the drive box. I do not detect any heat generated from either the G540 or power supply unit. I run the same box with my larger machine, with four 425in-oz steppers with no issues, and the psu only periodically kicking its fan in.

I'm thinking it has to do more with a buffer underrun on the SmoothStepper end, since I basically copied the xml from my big machine and modified it. But rather than screwing with the SmoothStepper settings like I did last time I decided to go a different route.

I have the USBCNC5A card from EdingCNC that I planned to use on my aluminum mill. Since I have that on hold right now (though really only about 6-8 hours away from running it) I decided to try it on this machine. So far, I really like the uncluttered interface (probably even moreso than the MachStdMill screenset) and setup was so easy it was almost laughable. The only downside to it is that the pin outs on the DB25 connector are not standard with Mach3's. I had a custom cable made up last year for about $35. a lot better than trying to do it myself. The wire gauge in the custom cable is also thicker, and the end cups are metal, not plastic.

Later on tonight I will post some pics and video of the setup. So far though I think it works really well. The USBCNC card reads standard RS274/NGC instructions, and ran it with programs made with the standard EMC and FANUC post processors with no hitch (though the FANUC post processor adds a line on top the USBCNC does not like and I delete it manualy; OneCNC allows for post-processor configuring and that should be cake as well.

[louieatienza]

As promised, a video of my machine, with the USBCNC5A controller by EdingCNC.

DIY HomeMade Mini CNC Router Engraver Mill USBCNC Control with G540! - YouTube

[louieatienza]

I got a bit done today. I ran my first two cutting jobs on the machine. The first was surfacing the table bed. The second was machining the t-slot table pieces.

As a testament to the accuracy of the 8-start leadscrews on my larger machine, I counterbored and drilled for sixteen 1/4"-20 x 1-1/2" SHCSs on two 125mm t-slot table plates, then ran program to "trim" the sawn edges. I then ran a drilling program on the small machine for the 16 holes, and hand-tapped the holes. With almost no clearance on the bolt holes and counterbores, the plates fit as perfectly as could possibly be! I wanted the fit to be as close as possible, to prevent the tables from moving, but I did not expect as accurate a fit.

My next tasks are to build a dust shoe, make some kind of enclosure for the machine, hook up a SuperPID to the router, and put both USBCNC and SuperPID in an enclosure. I have a Hoffman box that I thought of using but not sure yet.

Anyway here are some updated pics:

Pic 1: The "completed" machine; at least in terms of functionality

Pic 2: A glimpse of the main USBCNC interface. It took me all of an hour to navigate through everything and familiarize myself.

Pic 3: 3D toolpath view... Not isometric or orthagonal, though those views are also available. The view can be manipulated in real time during the job, with the tracer following the toolpath the whole time. The screen also automatically scales when windowed or maximized.

Pic 4: A view of the clearance between table and front rail, about 1/16"

Pic 5: The USBCNC card. To the right you can see the custom parallel cable.

Pic 6: A view of the back of the G540 box from DeepGroove1. Nice box and clean design!

Pic 7: The back of the Z carriage. Unlike the X and Y which have the screws fixed with light tension, at bot ends, the leadscrew in the Z is held captive by a sandwich of coupler, spacer, two radial bearings, another spacer, and then the threaded coupler. The bearings are fixed to the block with three SHCS used asset-screws Way easier than making a plate!

Pic 8: Closeup of Z bearing block.

Pic 9: The soigeneris covers and XLR connectors really look cool. I want to write the axis for each wire just to avoid confision.

[vtx1029]

I've enjoyed watching this build. Great job!

What extrusion is that? Looks like its a single piece

[JohnZ]

I believe that he made that table on his larger machine having an 8 start acme screw ... according to the last post anyway.

I must say your smaller machine is looking awesome. Keep up the great work.

Sent from my DROID4 using Tapatalk 2

[louieatienza]

Thanks guys for the compliments!

The extrusion was actually purchased, and then machined to size with the holes drilled and counterbored.

The extrusion is 125mm x 20mm heavy duty t-slot plate from Techno-Isel, which conveniently is located here in NY, so shipping to me is only 1 day! They also sell complete machines, round linear rails, extrusions, spindles, ACME screws, ballscrews, nuts, cutting tools, etc. They also make robotic grippers.

While they do make a 250mm wide profile (and 375mm as well) I went this route so that damage to one side wouldn't necessitate replacing a whole piece. I was probably very fortunate in my setup on the larger machine since the holes lined up perfectly, with absolutely no gap nor pinching between the tables.

Techno also sells clamp strips and cam clamps and other components that work with this extrusion, as well as other companies. I have to try 5/16" square uts to see if they fit. I believe most clamping systems for 8mm t-slots would work just fine.

[louieatienza]

By the way, does anyone have a CAD for the openings for DB25 and DB9 connectors? I want to mount the USBCNC board in a box and was thinking that might look nicer than just making holes and using grommets?

[vtx1029]

By the way, does anyone have a CAD for the openings for DB25 and DB9 connectors? I want to mount the USBCNC board in a box and was thinking that might look nicer than just making holes and using grommets?

I think I saw some in one of the wizards in mach3 I believe it was an electrical one.

[JohnZ]

I thought there was one in the Milling wizards found in Mach3, but i think that may be part of the extras you get when you buy the milling wizards. I would have to go out to the shop to be sure though. I use the Milling Wizards all the time, but have not used the electrical templates yet.

[louieatienza]

Yes, I found them under the electrical section in the Newfangled Wizards section. Though since I'll be cutting the panel on my new machine, I guess I'd just have to generate the g-code only in Mach, though I'd prefer to work with the shape in CAD to make sure I get the placement correct...

[louieatienza]

I had a couple tasks to complete - install a SuperPID sensor, and have the stran relief for the cord go up instead of sideways.

To install the SuperPID, I removed the "guts" under the cover, including the transformer for the LEDs. I'll have to run some power to them, as well as a switch to turn on/off. The motor is "hot wired" as shown with spade connectors.

To turn the cord up, I removed the cord and cut the strain relief about 3/4" from it's end. I then inserted both ends into a NIBCO 1/2" elbow, fixing it with super glue. Note that I had everything loose on the power cord before doing this!

For a temporary enclosure, I just used a thermostat lockbox I had lying around. This was all done quickly, as I plan to move the SuperPID and USBCNC board into their new home. I still have to connect the spindle control of the USBCNC to the G540.

Completed, it looks a lot tidier than having the cord out to the side. I just used wire wrap to keep the SuperPID sensor and power cord together.

[louieatienza]

I finally got the dust shoe completed... Basically two pieces of 1/2" chopping board, some 1/4" lucite, four 1/4"-20 couplings, eight socket head screws, and some strip brush. It's a tight fit on the router without any lock bolts, though I will add one to ensure it doesn't slip while in use.

[RomanLini]

That's a beautiful brush for a very tidy machine. Congrats!