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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    55

    My JGRO build

    First of all, I am new here, so HI to everyone

    I found this site a week ago and I've just started building my JGRO router.
    As I am Dutch and use the metric system I do have to adjust the plans a little and recalculate a lot of stuff.
    So far things are coming along fine, I do have a couple of questions though:

    - I've been reading about 'backlash' in leadscrews, what does this mean? I don't know the word. Hence I can't figure out what the anti-backlash nut thing in the plans is supposed to do. Can someone please explain the concept?

    - The stocklist shows what type of nuts and bolts I need, but since everything is different here in the Netherlands, I need some help translating the specs.
    EXAMPLE: HEX HEAD BOLT 1/4-20 x 3.
    I figure this means a bolt with a 6 sided head. 1/4 means the diameter of the bolt is 0.25 inch, and the x3 means its 3 inches long. Is this correct? And what does the -20 mean?


    Thanks in advance,
    Ill try to take some pictures of the build asap

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    1316
    20 threads per inch.

    Jason

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    41
    Backlash definition "The distance through which one part of connected machinery, as a wheel, piston, or screw, can be moved without moving the connected parts, resulting from looseness in fitting or from wear."

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    55
    Thank you

    Here's some pics of what I built so far:







    The parts are loose fitted, next step is to bolt the base and cutting bed to the supports

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    775
    Nice job. My advice regarding the multiple taps called out in the plans, just use long wood screws. Don't bother tapping. The wood screws do need a small pilot hole though. A must.

    Looks like you are making a lot of progress. Good job.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    55
    Thanks. So far Ive used bolts and machinescrews like the plans say. Its a little bit more effort, but I think it makes it easy to take apart for painting i.e.

    Things are starting to take shape
    I took some more pictures and made a video of the gantry sliding on the rails, but my memorycard just kicked the bucket Hope I still have warranty on it so I can post more pictures asap!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    55
    Ok I went out and replaced my phone's memory card, so I can take pictures again. Btw yea I shoot them with my mobile so please excuse the poor quality...







    Up next is making the X-axis

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    41
    Hey there Sieg but I notice you don't have the bearing/motor holes drilled in your table or in the gantry yet. I am just wondering if this is on purpose or just a slight oversight.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    55
    It's on purpose I haven't decided what type of motors and rods I'm going to use yet, so I'm not sure how big I want those holes to be. Once I have purchased/built the whole drive system I can easily take the machine apart and drill the holes

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    55
    Ok I have a problem. I was planning on buying a cnc-package from hobbycnc, but after emailing I found out they don't accept creditcards?? They only accept USD, and since I live in Europe, I have no idea how to pay.

    I also checked out Xylotex, but they don't ship to Europe at all.

    I am looking to buy a complete cnc-package with drives, motors... the lot.

    Does anyone know a shop that ships to Europe?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    55
    Lil update

    Ive been working on the x-axis as you can see.







    Because there was a little bit of play in the x-axis bearings, I added something of my own design:





    I mounted a top and a bottom plate to the gantry-rearbrace. Like the adjustmentblocks, they hold 3 bolts each, pushing against the metal pipes to keep them from flexing. A simple but very effective solution







    And this is where I am now:







    See you next time :rainfro:
    Oh, and if someone could help me out with the question I asked 1 post back, I would be very grateful

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    323
    your machine is looking great good idea with the y axis supports! and also i for one LOVE to see all those pictures!! very motivating to someone who hasnt started a build yet,keep up the good work
    sorry i dont know more about ordering from these sites as i have never ordered from any of them i was just looking trying to decide on what to power my cnc (which i havent even started on yet! )
    it looks like xylotex has a place for credit card orders,and paypal
    also stepperworld has a paypal order thing
    keling also uses paypal ,...i hope some one else who lives "over the pond" might have better info for you,again ...great looking machine!!
    "witty comment"

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    55
    Thanks Ace, I emailed Stepperworld and they ship to Europe AND accept creditcards :banana: thanks for the tip.

    Anyone have experience with this package?
    http://www.stepperworld.com/FET3dynamo.htm

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    550
    Hobycnc takes paypal. Isn't that available where you live?

    Garry

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    55
    Yes Paypal is available where I live. I don't have any experience using it though. I just made a Paypal account but I am not sure how it works exactly.

    Hobbycnc told me by email they do NOT accept creditcards. However, if I use Paypal I need to 'upload' money to it with my creditcard. Would that be ok? And does Paypal automatically convert my euros to dollars? Cause Hobbycnc said they only accept USD.

    Yea I'm an online-shopping-noob :P

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    55
    Update

    Because of the great success my little rod-support-mod was on the x-axis, I decided to apply the same trick to the y-axis. Added side panels to the machine, holding 3 5/16 inch bolts each, to keep the rails from being pushed outward by the gantry.











    It greatly increased the stability of the gantry



    Next I made two cover pieces on the sides, to keep the side-panels from flexing outward, and to make it look nice




    Then I started working on the rails for the z-axis:


    Right now I am making the z-bearings and also trying to decide which motors/drivers to buy. Right now I have my eye on this package from Hobbycnc:

    3 Axis Package
    With (3) 305oz-in Steppers
    $280USD + $16 USA S/H

    What do you guys think?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    296
    My thoughts are go for it, i bought the 200 oz package before the 305's were available, and they work pretty well, as for the supports, i had blocks in mine with a cutout to hold the pipes in place, or at least that was the theory, i had to do a bit of shimming, but i think your way avoids the time it takes to make mine the way i did.

    What i'd advise is running two threaded rods through the machine from side to side, this will stop any bowing outwards, as you can still get a little flexing from the side the way you have it set up, take a look at what i mean here:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Jgro 007.jpg   Jgro 008.jpg   Jgro 013.jpg  

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    296
    Also, i think i read somewhere that the stepperworld kit was not known for speed, that's the kit i first planned on buying but when i heard this it turned me off, then it was between the hobbycnc and the Xylotex, best bang for the buck seemed to be hobbycnc, plus i wanted the experience of soldering my own board, i'm not trying to step on anyone's shoes here, but you can research on it just in case.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    55
    Yes the threated rods are a very good idea Tajord, but in my machine there's not enough room between the base and the gantry so it wouldn't clear the rods when sliding over.

    My machine is sitting on a 18mm MDF plate, which was originally an improvised table. I think I'll use it as a permanent base plate and actually bolt it to the machine. Then I could mount the side-panels to it. There's noway the 3/4 inch side-panels are going to flex when they are bolted down on all 4 sides

    About the motors,
    Your machine seems to run really well, and it's similar to mine so I will most probably indeed go for the 305oz hobbycnc package

    thanks for your input.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    296
    As you are suggesting for your machine with the plate, mine also has it, which is now the bottom with the sides attached too, the issue with the lack of space for the threaded rod? i can't risk moving mine, it's exactly enough for my bolt, i have a friend who is making one and i recommended he make the torsion box a little ahorter to accomodate for that, kinda forgot to tell you about that, but this definitely takes care of any outward flex.

    It's a good idea what you did on the gantry to support the pipes, you do tend to get a little flex in the area with can be seen sometimes when plunging.

    Good choice on the hobbycnc package.

    Good luck.

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