[Ntl]

It's 0.125 from the face of the MDF to the top of the T-track, the T-track is 0.75x0.375 and I ran a 0.50 DOC for the pockets. I should get quite a few resurfaces out of it as long as I don't gouge the crap out of it when I'm cutting. I'm probably going to mount another piece of MDF to it when I'm cutting all the way through material since I don't want to trash the top since it was a lot of work. Either way the next one will faster since I have a template now, the only thing I'm not looking forward to is getting the T-track out and cleaned up the next time since I glued it down with the screws. I didn't want to take any chances of it pulling the screws out while cutting.

For what it's worth it turned out exactly how I wanted it to, so if I have any issues it's my fault for a bad design. So far just clamping a few things down it seems like it will work great for what I need.

Thanks for the compliment,
Dan

[GME]

I guessed wrong. Track is thinner than I thought - 3/8" vs 1/2".

Dan,

Another option is surface down to flush with the track, and cut strips of mdf for the next layer that just overlaps the track edges, but doesn't overlap into the slot. That way, you don't even need screws in the track. When you clamp a work piece down, you aren't pulling up on the track - more like compressing the last MDF layer between the work piece and the track. Works like a charm. I used through machine screws, but didn't need to.

On through cuts, zero your cutter to the spoilboard. Then, raise the cutter by the nominal thickness of what your cutting (e.g. for playwood, 3/4" versus it actual thickness, which is thinner) and zero the z axis again at the nominal thickness height. On through cuts, you will never cut into your spoilboard, as long as your steps are set correctly and you accurately zero to the spoilboard. My spoilboard remained pristine. Try it. It works. Note: this only works for through cuts. If you are not cutting through, like with a 3d carving, setting to nominal thickness will screw up your carving. For non-through cuts, folks usually set zero at the top of the work piece.

Gary

[Ntl]

Thanks Gary for the info I've been hearing that zeroing to the machine bed is the way to go for through cuts since like you said wood thickness varies quite a bit its not like a sheet of metal. I'm hoping that by the time I need to replace the spoil board I can afford to replace it with that aluminum t-slot plate that I was telling you about. Who knows, I'm just glad I'm finally almost done so I can stop working on the machine and start cutting parts with it. I didn't buy it to be a project since I have one of those sitting in the driveway, I bought it to make products. I can definitely see how guys can get caught up tinkering endlessly with these machines.

Dan

[GME]

Thanks Gary for the info I've been hearing that zeroing to the machine bed is the way to go for through cuts since like you said wood thickness varies quite a bit its not like a sheet of metal. I'm hoping that by the time I need to replace the spoil board I can afford to replace it with that aluminum t-slot plate that I was telling you about. Who knows, I'm just glad I'm finally almost done so I can stop working on the machine and start cutting parts with it. I didn't buy it to be a project since I have one of those sitting in the drivewshay, I bought it to make products. I can definitely see how guys can get caught up tinkering endlessly with these machines.

Dan

Yeh, setting up these beasts can get pretty tedious and time consuming. For some, it's half the fun. For others, no so much. I like working on them, but I like making stuff more. I'm working on a 42" king salmon in Aspire (3d model) that's crying to be cut out just as soon as I get my latest CNC built. I also have some signs to cut and some beach themed stuff to make for some crafts fairs up and down the coast. The only competition is a fellow who makes signs with a handheld router and some templates. He makes nice things, but not nearly as nice as can be made on a CNC. I'm not looking to commit to a regular business, (I already retired from a pressure cooker job). but offsetting some of my tool and woodworking/metalworking costs and expenses would be nice. I might also consider commissions for larger specialty things, like the salmon or some classic sailboat half hulls (assuming I can get lofting plans at decent prices).

You don't want to know how long it took me to finish my spoilboard, and I'm retired and can put in full days.. 1 layer of 3/4; 1 layer of 1/2"; and a 3rd layer of 3/4. The 3 layers were glued. I have a vacuum bagging system, but I couldn't use it on this project. The spoilboard would have been too bulky and heavy to glue and then wrestle into a polyurethane bag with breather mesh top and bottom. The glue would have dried before I got the ends of the bag closed and started pulling a vacuum.

Gary

[Ntl]

I got my tool setter and touch off plate mounted and the m6 macro installed. Here's some pictures of the hardware and a couple pictures of a test part I cut out to test the macro out. It has three different tools and the macro works perfectly. I'm going to post a video of it being a little later. I still have a lot to learn with everything but so far it's going really well.

Dan

[Ntl]

Here's video part 1. https://youtu.be/HO7MdLyIyrw

[Ntl]

Here's part 2.https://youtu.be/a50QL3MReQw

[beltramidave]

Looks great! What kind of rapids are you getting? I have mine set at 600ipm, but I have the steel gantry too.

On your profile cut, how did you get your ramp on each pass to start in a different spot? What cam software are you using?

Looks like all of your hard work has paid off. Now the fun part starts!

[Ntl]

Looks great! What kind of rapids are you getting? I have mine set at 600ipm, but I have the steel gantry too.

On your profile cut, how did you get your ramp on each pass to start in a different spot? What cam software are you using?

Looks like all of your hard work has paid off. Now the fun part starts!

Thanks for the compliment.

I'm running 900ipm rapids.

I'm using Vcarve Pro it has a optimize start point and the software does it automatically or you can pick your start points.

It works great I draw up my designs in AI export them to dxf file and Vcarve reads them perfectly.

That test part I posted took me probably two minutes to draw up and maybe another 10 minutes to do the tool paths. It seems like it's going to be a great combination for me since I don't have the time to learn a 3D program right now.

Dan

[beltramidave]

Thanks for the compliment.

I'm running 900ipm rapids.

I'm using Vcarve Pro it has a optimize start point and the software does it automatically or you can pick your start points.

It works great I draw up my designs in AI export them to dxf file and Vcarve reads them perfectly.

That test part I posted took me probably two minutes to draw up and maybe another 10 minutes to do the tool paths. It seems like it's going to be a great combination for me since I don't have the time to learn a 3D program right now.

Dan

Wow, that's moving right along. I haven't tried pushing mine past 600.
I agree with vectric products, I am using Aspire and still learning. After watching your ramping, I watched my previews and noticed the same.

[Ntl]

Aspire unfortunately was out of my price range for now but the great thing about Vetric is that I can upgrade later on when I can afford it. As for the rapids it's 300 under what the advised speed is and now that I have a gantry that doesn't bind I haven't had a single issue with the setting. Overall I'm extremely happy with the machine even though I had a lot of issues getting it to this point. I still have a few more things that I need to do to call it a 100% but it's finally functional and I can start cutting parts.

Dan

[beltramidave]

I started with VCarve Desktop, so I know what you mean.
I just noticed that yours is the 2x4, I have the 4x4, so that might explain the difference in speeds too. I have one of the first Saturn 1 machines too, the only thing that I wasn't happy with was one of the frame cross braces was welded about an 1/8" higher on one end than the rest of them.
I never noticed any binding in mine, but to be honest, I wasn't really looking either. It has been running for about 1-1/2 years so far. I have threaded inserts on my spoilboard and want to upgrade to t tracks too. You are doing it the right way, getting everything the way you want before starting. You have a much harder time making changes once it is running.
Good luck and have fun!!

[difalkner]

Good stuff, Dan. I like the dual touch plates and the prompting that Acorn gives for changing bits, putting the dust shoe back on, etc.

A couple of observations - at 0:26 in the first video it appears Acorn has a 'tough' plate and a 'touch' plate in the same dialogue box - LOL! Typo, Acorn...

How close did your bit come to the lower left clamp knob? It looks close in the video. Do you have to specify where those are and how high in Vectric or does it tell you where to place them?

It appears your Z ballscrew isn't lubricated. Are you planning to do that or is it just lubricated up where we can't see it? Mine is well greased, fwiw, as well as the linear bearings and R&P.

In the second video, did you set your ramp speed that slow or did Vectric? That looks slow enough to burn instead of cut. I set my ramp at the same speed as I cut. I figure if it can cut at the speed and depth of cut I've chosen then it can certainly ramp at that speed.

Did you cut that without tabs or did you remove them off camera? If I cut without tabs the piece that's now loose gets caught by the bit every time.

That's a very smooth running machine - good job!

David

[Ntl]

It's not a factory maco lol... It's custom written by one of the forum guys that posted it for free. It's simple to edit the the text to what ever you want, I noticed it as well but it works so I'm not worried about it. The new update that's due to be released by Centroid will do all this with out the custom code through the setup wizard. So this m6 macro will more than likely be replaced with a factory written one. I'll also post a video of the new auto square function once I get the updated software. Good observations David.

The z clearance is set in Vcarve to 2" it can be set higher or lower but 2" clears my hold downs by a inch. The ramping is done by Vcarve, I'm still new to the software and learning there's a lot of options.

That had no tabs and it had no problem with the bit grabbing. I actually set 3d tabs in the file but I didn't make them thick enough since I went 0.02 past the board and cut into the MDF scrap I set under the board. It was the second part I've cut and I still have a lot to learn with the tool paths.

And oh yeah on the ball screw it is just the lube that came from the factory, I greased all the zerk fittings and I wasn't sure what to do with the ballscrew since Nate doesn't exactly give you a lot of information when you buy a machine from him lol. I got lucky and got the right kind of grease for the bearings but as I said I haven't touched the ballscrew since I know some bearings are sealed and don't require grease and greasing them will damage them. If it does need grease where does it go since there's no fitting? It seems like if I were to grease the screw it wouldn't need much since it is going to just collect at the top and bottom and make a mess. Post a picture if you can.


Thanks,
Dan

[difalkner]

I've already shut down (have been in the shop since early this morning) but went out there to take some photos. When I grease the linear bearings I take what's scraped by the wipers and put it on the ballscrew. Starbucks has excellent 'glue sticks' and 'grease sticks' - wood coffee stir sticks.

About once each week I take the excess grease and wipe it on the ballscrew. I'll probably do this again Monday. I'd rather have too much grease than seize something because it was dry. In two years of running I can only recall one time where grease has dropped on a part and that was my fault for not checking the excess. Yes, I'd love for it to be pristine, dust free, grease free, etc. but that's not realistic.

Attachment 410378

Attachment 410380

David

[beltramidave]

It's not a factory maco lol... It's custom written by one of the forum guys that posted it for free. It's simple to edit the the text to what ever you want, I noticed it as well but it works so I'm not worried about it. The new update that's due to be released by Centroid will do all this with out the custom code through the setup wizard. So this m6 macro will more than likely be replaced with a factory written one. I'll also post a video of the new auto square function once I get the updated software. Good observations David.

The z clearance is set in Vcarve to 2" it can be set higher or lower but 2" clears my hold downs by a inch. The ramping is done by Vcarve, I'm still new to the software and learning there's a lot of options.

That had no tabs and it had no problem with the bit grabbing. I actually set 3d tabs in the file but I didn't make them thick enough since I went 0.02 past the board and cut into the MDF scrap I set under the board. It was the second part I've cut and I still have a lot to learn with the tool paths.

And oh yeah on the ball screw it is just the lube that came from the factory, I greased all the zerk fittings and I wasn't sure what to do with the ballscrew since Nate doesn't exactly give you a lot of information when you buy a machine from him lol. I got lucky and got the right kind of grease for the bearings but as I said I haven't touched the ballscrew since I know some bearings are sealed and don't require grease and greasing them will damage them. If it does need grease where does it go since there's no fitting? It seems like if I were to grease the screw it wouldn't need much since it is going to just collect at the top and bottom and make a mess. Post a picture if you can.


Thanks,
Dan

When ramping, set your "plunge" speed in your tool setup, the same as feed speed. Otherwise the cam software uses the slowest axis speed setting. When not ramping, set the plunge speed much slower. Ramp whenever you can.

[Ntl]

Oh OK, I didn't know that Vcarve uses the plunge rate for ramping. It's kinda a pain in the you know what that you have to set up potentially a lot of different tool settings for the same bit if you plan on using it for different types of materials. It's too bad that the software can't do it for you. Say set up a 1/4 inch 2 flute end mill one time for say pine and it automatically makes the adjustments for the different types of materials based off your chip load. It's going to take a long time to set up my tool library especially if I have to have a ramp and plunge feed rate for each type of material as well. You would think that Vcarve would automatically adjust the plunge feed rate when you select ramping or at the very least have a option for ramping in the tool library.

Thank you very much on the info, I'm just starting to learn Vcarve. It's the first cam software that I've ever used.

Dan

[difalkner]

In Fusion 360 you can define everything about the speed - plunge, ramp, cutting, lead in, lead out, spindle speed, ramp spindle speed and you can name the tool as you wish. So I can have the same bit with a Walnut profile, a Maple profile, a Rosewood profile, etc. Pretty nice, actually.

David

[Ntl]

In Fusion 360 you can define everything about the speed - plunge, ramp, cutting, lead in, lead out, spindle speed, ramp spindle speed and you can name the tool as you wish. So I can have the same bit with a Walnut profile, a Maple profile, a Rosewood profile, etc. Pretty nice, actually.

David

Vcarve does all the same things it's just simpler, I'm just still learning what everything does. I have Fusion as well and the difference for me is Vcarve is similar to AI which I've been using for 15 years and was able to with in 5 minutes of having the software output a cutting file that I could run. Where as Fusion I still haven't been able to get one simple tool path to work. Vcarve is just extremely simple and is designed for one thing "CNC ROUTERS' where Fusion is set up to do every thing so in order for me to learn it I would have to spend a lot of time watching tutorials which right now I don't have the time for. At some point I will Learn Fusion for any 3D parts I may want to do, but for now Vcarve will handle everything I plan on cutting.

Everyone has to decide for themselves what works best for them, just like I noticed a lot of guys use Corel and I'm a Adobe guy. Lots of different options thankfully for all of us.

Dan

[Ntl]

Little by little it's getting finished up. Got the cable chain bracket and dust boot painted up today. It's almost finished finally, almost ready to post the final pictures and video and retire this thread.