[jeepsterjc]

I need a 4x4 or 4x6 sized plasma cutting water table system and over the last week have found most of the answers to my question here at cnczone. Now I have some questions that only experience can answer and I know that different choices can be made to satisfy performance or cost. I'm making decisions based on cost. I have recently built a stepper motor driven 3D printer and understand the basics. I hope this is where I can ask questions and document my progress to getting a cutting table working and save a fair bit of money building a table on my own.

It seems I need to settle on a number of choices:

1. What hardware drives the table- motors and controllers?
2. What type of linear rails and glides or rollers will I use?
3. Do I need a 4 th axis for torch lift... why do some cnc cutting tables use 2 motors- 1 for thicker stock and another for thc?
4. I use Linux for everything and is EMC2 trouble free for plasma cutting?

My current Jeep build is on hold until I get my table up and running, so I'm motivated!

Thanks for any ideas and advice.

[millman52]

It seems I need to settle on a number of choices:

1. What hardware drives the table- motors and controllers?
2. What type of linear rails and glides or rollers will I use?
3. Do I need a 4 th axis for torch lift... why do some cnc cutting tables use 2 motors- 1 for thicker stock and another for thc?
4. I use Linux for everything and is EMC2 trouble free for plasma cutting?

My current Jeep build is on hold until I get my table up and running, so I'm motivated!

Thanks for any ideas and advice.

One of the simplest choices for hardware for a really nice matched up system with great support is www.candcnc.com For small to mid size machines look for the dragon cut series.

This is certainly not the cheapest but most likely the most complete & simple hook up out there. Not all that expensive either when you really take time to compair apples to apples when piecing a system together.

I like "V" rail on plasma simply because it tolerates a dirty environment better than most any other.

If you use a dual motor drive for your gantry you will need a 4 axis drive system

[jeepsterjc]

One of the simplest choices for hardware for a really nice matched up system with great support is www.candcnc.com For small to mid size machines look for the dragon cut series.

This is certainly not the cheapest but most likely the most complete & simple hook up out there. Not all that expensive either when you really take time to compair apples to apples when piecing a system together.

I like "V" rail on plasma simply because it tolerates a dirty environment better than most any other.

If you use a dual motor drive for your gantry you will need a 4 axis drive system

Thanks, Neil. I wired my smaller Z axis nema steppers on the 3D printer in parrallel. So that's where the 4th axis is then. Dumb question next- Why do some plasma tables have two motors for torch vertical movement then?

Do builders have a favorite place for buying "V" rail?

Why do builders buy candcnc hardware over a torchmate system?

[I Lean]

Thanks, Neil. I wired my smaller Z axis nema steppers on the 3D printer in parrallel. So that's where the 4th axis is then. Dumb question next- Why do some plasma tables have two motors for torch vertical movement then?

Do builders have a favorite place for buying "V" rail?

Why do builders buy candcnc hardware over a torchmate system?

I don't think anyone has two motors for the Z axis--what you might be seeing is one motor for the Z, and one for the X, to move the Z axis/torch holder across the gantry.

One reason I chose CandCNC is price--it includes a lot of functionality built-in that is extra with other systems. Example--I got all my electronics, motors, wires, AND the built-in torch height control, for about $1500. Torchmate for example (since you mentioned them) charges $2500 for JUST the torch height control, and that's AFTER you've already bought all the other stuff from them. (not that there's anything wrong with Torchmate--they just accomplish what they do in a different way than CandCNC)

[jeepsterjc]

I don't think anyone has two motors for the Z axis--what you might be seeing is one motor for the Z, and one for the X, to move the Z axis/torch holder across the gantry.

One reason I chose CandCNC is price--it includes a lot of functionality built-in that is extra with other systems. Example--I got all my electronics, motors, wires, AND the built-in torch height control, for about $1500. Torchmate for example (since you mentioned them) charges $2500 for JUST the torch height control, and that's AFTER you've already bought all the other stuff from them. (not that there's anything wrong with Torchmate--they just accomplish what they do in a different way than CandCNC)

OK. I must have been confused by the motor arrangement. I didn't know that TM's thc cost so much extra. That little extra charge of $2500 knock them out of my range.

Jim

[jeepsterjc]

I'm looking at ShopDroid's packages and am almost ready to make the order. It sure is a less expensive way to go rather than buying a completed gantry off of ebay for $3000 to $5000.

I need to figure out if the gear-reduction is worth it for me. I'd like the table to be reliable and accurate and still inexpensive... I'm thinking that for the extra couple hundred I'd be willing to go gear-reduction on X and Y.

Is gear-reduction on Z necessary?

All of the bracket kits come in at around $600 and would really speed up the build for the 4x8 table.

So back to the CandCNC.com option. Does buying the candcnc $1450 4 axis system with the larger 620 oz motors make sense? Why would I go with the stronger motors. Will the table last longer or improve precision?

Thanks everyone for your opinions and sharing your experiences. Jim

[jeepsterjc]

I spoke with John at NoSleep Studio and purchased:

1 x ULTIMATE DIY PlasmaBot 3.0 Gantry Kit
1 x ShopDroids Z Axis Drive
1 x Z Drive Floating Torch Plate Kit

Now I need to sort out the electronics.

I can buy for what seems a low cost something like http://www.kelinginc.net/CNCNEMA23G540Pac
kage.html using 381 oz motors then add THC to it with an aluminum housing and other wiring and connectors. The cost comes to maybe $800 to $900.

Or, I can buy the BladeRunner Dragon Cut System 620-4 for $1478.00. The Candcna.com BladeRunner uses 620 oz motors and may leave me with future expansion... By the time I increase the size of motors using a more DIY plan the cost even narrows more. I'm thinking maybe buying the BladeRunner Dragon Cut 620 system may not be a bad idea.

What do you guys think? Is there anything wrong with the BladeRunner Dragon Cut System that your are unhappy about? ... failing/customer support/quality ... ?

[WSS]

If support is important to you, then I would go with CandCnc's stuff. I have a few years CNC plasma experience and have found proper support to be worth double what the purchase price is. If you run into a problem, then a expedient solution compounds it yet again. I just recently installed a PlazPak servo system from CandCnc and could not have done the "get up and running" in the time frame it all happened in without the expert help received from the crew there. The CandCnc support forum has some good answers and some really experienced users there willing to help you too.

My two cents

WSS

[jeepsterjc]

If support is important to you, then I would go with CandCnc's stuff. I have a few years CNC plasma experience and have found proper support to be worth double what the purchase price is. If you run into a problem, then a expedient solution compounds it yet again. I just recently installed a PlazPak servo system from CandCnc and could not have done the "get up and running" in the time frame it all happened in without the expert help received from the crew there. The CandCnc support forum has some good answers and some really experienced users there willing to help you too.

My two cents

WSS

That's what we decided to do- go with the CandCnc Bladerunner 620-4 system. By the time I had added all of the small stuff into a 4 620 oz motor system with thc, powwer supply, enclosure and cabling the cost was close. And for the extra amount I know I'll have a well supported electronics package.

[I Lean]

That's what we decided to do- go with the CandCnc Bladerunner 620-4 system. By the time I had added all of the small stuff into a 4 620 oz motor system with thc, powwer supply, enclosure and cabling the cost was close. And for the extra amount I know I'll have a well supported electronics package.

That's the route I went also--I couldn't be happier, and 100% recommend CandCNC to anyone trying to decide. I was new to the CNC world when I built my table, so the help I got from Tom was not just valuable, it was NEEDED.

[jeepsterjc]

If support is important to you, then I would go with CandCnc's stuff. I have a few years CNC plasma experience and have found proper support to be worth double what the purchase price is. If you run into a problem, then a expedient solution compounds it yet again. I just recently installed a PlazPak servo system from CandCnc and could not have done the "get up and running" in the time frame it all happened in without the expert help received from the crew there. The CandCnc support forum has some good answers and some really experienced users there willing to help you too.

My two cents

WSS

Thanks for your thoughts on the way to go for electronics. It helped a lot.

[jeepsterjc]

I don't think anyone has two motors for the Z axis--what you might be seeing is one motor for the Z, and one for the X, to move the Z axis/torch holder across the gantry.

One reason I chose CandCNC is price--it includes a lot of functionality built-in that is extra with other systems. Example--I got all my electronics, motors, wires, AND the built-in torch height control, for about $1500. Torchmate for example (since you mentioned them) charges $2500 for JUST the torch height control, and that's AFTER you've already bought all the other stuff from them. (not that there's anything wrong with Torchmate--they just accomplish what they do in a different way than CandCNC)

Good advice, Carl. i appreciate it.

[jeepsterjc]

I'm drawing up my plasma water table in Pro/E and don't know what a good water depth would be. I'm looking at a 50 inch cutting width and a 52 inch wide table- edge to edge for the water table/slats. I can do this with a 5 foot wide sheet if I make the sides 4 inches tall. Is this deep enough?

Thanks.

[jeepsterjc]

This is what I have so far. The ShopDroid Z allows for large vertical (that will be handy when I switch the Z over to 3D printing) I have 10 inches from the top of the water table to the bottom edge of the Z torch holder assembly.



So now I need to draw up a minimal support structure for underneath the water table basin and just wait for the parts to start arriving.

[Danno]

I'm drawing up my plasma water table in Pro/E and don't know what a good water depth would be. I'm looking at a 50 inch cutting width and a 52 inch wide table- edge to edge for the water table/slats. I can do this with a 5 foot wide sheet if I make the sides 4 inches tall. Is this deep enough?

Thanks.

I made my table the same way !!
I used a 5 foot by 5 foot piece of .125 aluminum. One end is 4 inches deep, and the other 3 inches. I did this so that it would drain completely. It works absolutely perfect !! It fills in 1.5 minutes, and drains in 45 seconds.
I keep the water level 1/4 below the top of the slats, and I like the results. Some will say to keep the water further away from your metal, but then you will have way more crap in the air, which is the reason you want a water table in the first place.
BTW, where in Canada are you?
Dan

[jeepsterjc]

I made my table the same way !!
I used a 5 foot by 5 foot piece of .125 aluminum. One end is 4 inches deep, and the other 3 inches. I did this so that it would drain completely. It works absolutely perfect !! It fills in 1.5 minutes, and drains in 45 seconds.
I keep the water level 1/4 below the top of the slats, and I like the results. Some will say to keep the water further away from your metal, but then you will have way more crap in the air, which is the reason you want a water table in the first place.
BTW, where in Canada are you?
Dan

Hi Dan. I'm in south BC, where Kokanee Beer comes from. Big Sky Brewing, in Montana, is way better.

Why is draining the table so important? I haven't built any slope into it, yet...

How deep do you usually fill it?

Thanks, Jim

[jeepsterjc]

I've also purchased ShopDroid's Geared Reduction for 3 axis. I figured I may as well try to build the best performing plasma table that I could afford because a noob like me needs all of the advantage he can get!

[Danno]

Hi Dan. I'm in south BC, where Kokanee Beer comes from. Big Sky Brewing, in Montana, is way better.

Why is draining the table so important? I haven't built any slope into it, yet...

How deep do you usually fill it?

Thanks, Jim

Well you're too damn far to come over and see my table !!
I'm in Ontario !!
I don't want to leave my table filled for a couple of reasons. The main one is evaporation. I also don't want the flies to make my table their private lake.
If you're cutting lots of pieces, it's nice to be able to drain the table so you don't have to "fish" out all the pieces.
And lastly, is to clean the bottom of the pan.
Like I said in my lasy post, I fill it 1/4 inch below the top of my slats.
Dan

[jeepsterjc]

I've been asked how I can avoid having my torch head jamb up against an up-turned piece of metal. One that teeters over then stops before falling between the slats...

I had been wondering that myself and thought that taking care and monitoring the cut job was the answer. Are there any other tricks or mechanisms that I could use/build to avoid damaging a torch head, gantry, or expensive cut job?

[Danno]

My torch head is held on by 4 magnets, and 2 locating pins. If it jams up, it just falls off