[ihavenofish]

I did need to drill in the end of a 18" plate the other day and it would have been so much easier if I had the RF-31 in the shop ( it is getting closer and closer to the curb) I could have just swung the head over and clamped to the edge of the table.

isnt this not too hard if you swivel the 30's head? (or the 25/g0705 for that matter).

[LeeWay]

That precisely is why I didn't mind buying a HF round column type.
I will have large locking pins to pin it to 0, but swiveling can be an advantage.

[Walter T]

Hi All,
New here today,I just ordered a G0704, not available until july!!! Is there a power feed available for this mill?
Walter T

[Walter T]

Hi All,
New here, I just ordered a G0704 mill today, they will not be in stock until July they said,,,,,,, Is there a power feed available for this mill?
Walter T

[machinechick]

bigdog metal works has one that should fit

[wisp]

Hi Guys, well, I have a proposition for a solid modeler with a BF20/G0704 (or a clone). I need an accurate solid model of the G0704, the entire machine with the exception of any parts inside the spindle speed control housing, like electronics. I currently am very strapped for time, or I would draw it up myself. As payment for your work, we will send you a free (and the first) ballscrew kit for the G0704. (Thompson ballscrews).

This will have several benefits,

1. Someone gets a free kit.
   
2. It will allow me to get a "virtual" look at a 2nd machine, and compare manufacturing differences, and what variances might need to be accounted for
   
3. I will completed the kit much faster
   
4. And last, Someone gets a free kit.

:wee:

If you are interested, please email me at [email protected] or [email protected]

Cheers,
Michael

PS: please don't email me any models just yet, screen shots will do. i don't want anyone getting mad because they email a model, and we already selected someone else's model, and think we're trying to rip them off....

[photomankc]

I wish I had waited on my Grizzly now. 2nd weekend of sitting looking at my $1300 basement ornament. 2nd weekend that the speed controller doesn't work, been swapping parts through mail and I'm getting close to the end of my rope with this.

[machinechick]

Did you remember to turn the controller down all the way each time before you started it after you stopped it?
If you didn't thats a good way to ruin a dc controller.
You mentioned in another thread the machine had a kb controller, and those aren't actually bad.
So how did the controller manage to blow?

[photomankc]

Did you remember to turn the controller down all the way each time before you started it after you stopped it?
If you didn't thats a good way to ruin a dc controller.
You mentioned in another thread the machine had a kb controller, and those aren't actually bad.
So how did the controller manage to blow?

No idea. Stuttered once getting up to speed and then ran fine. Turned off, turned back on. Speed was always to lowest setting when starting. This time it just clicked. No spinning at any setting. Replaced the control board and it didn't work. Replaced the speed pot today and it runs at half speed but only barely, cuts in and out sometimes and stutters around. replugged all the terminals, no joy.

I'm shipping the head back I guess for them to repair. I don't understand all the internals well enough to play around in the guts. It seems like the voltage at the P2 terminal is only getting to 3V or less instead of the 7V referenced in the manuals. I don't know why. Going to be a pain in the behind to make a crate to hold this thing. No way I just use a box and tape.

[machinechick]

Hey before you do that, just take the coals out of the motor(or whatever they are called in English), wipe them off put them back in the same way you took them out. It sounds like that could be the problem. Sorry if you tried this already. If this helps I'd probably get some new ones. I mean the motor brushes!!! (;

[Starleper1]

Hey before you do that, just take the coals out of the motor(or whatever they are called in English), wipe them off put them back in the same way you took them out. It sounds like that could be the problem. Sorry if you tried this already. If this helps I'd probably get some new ones. I mean the motor brushes!!! (;

I assume you mean the brushes.

I was going to recommend the same thing. It sounds like a brush problem.

[photomankc]

Nope. Now I'm down to a couple hundred RPM. It goes back.

[machinechick]

It's a shame you didn't clean the brushes BEFORE you messed with the speed pot and the controller board.

[photomankc]

Not much I can do about it. Brushes weren't dirty as far as I could see. Just got the crate built. QMT contacted me this weekend so they will check it out and fix. The original controller is dead. Only 3 volts available on the pot connections where the new board has 11 volts. Could the brushes somehow lead to controller failure?

[n_maher]

Are these machines really backordered for 3 and a half months? I spent hours reading this thread last night along with Hoss's site only to get to the end and see that now if I want one it'll be the middle of the summer before I get it, maybe.

[Starleper1]

Check out Quality Machine Tools. I got my mill 2days after I ordered it.

[n_maher]

Check out Quality Machine Tools. I got my mill 2days after I ordered it.

I'll be speaking with them tomorrow but this is what their site says:

Please note that these item are
currently NOT IN STOCK. However,
you will be able to go through the
entire purchasing process to place
an order to guarantee you this
machine when it becomes available.
If you do not wish to PRE-ORDER
this machine, then please DO NOT
go through the purchasing process...

Which makes me think that they must have a substantial wait for machines now too.

[machinechick]

The two things that tend to lead to general dc controller failure: not turning the speed down to zero each time you start it back up, 2) overheating.
I also made a habit of turning it down to zero before I shut the spindle down.

Once you take the cover off, some of the components (Mosfets) are very easy to short out, power resistors can break etc., but KB controlers are very sturdy, they have scr's and plug in power resistors. Touching stuff when your not grounded though could still probably short something.

When your running the mill and you can hear the controller reving the motor to compensate, and that is your normal state of affairs your probably over working the machine in general.

If your primary work is going to consist of using 3/4" endmills and 2.5" facemills with heavy cuts you probabably should consider a bigger mill with a larger motor or consider changing your machining technique.

You can after all wear just about anything down, car, machine, etc., by running it full out constantly, or you can make it last almost forever by running within design parameters and showing it some care.

[photomankc]

I think you are reading too much into the fact that I used a 2.5" facemill and 3/4" endmill. Both are never really used by me unless I'm facing a surface with a light cut. I did run them both in a heavy cut once to see what it would do but that is not the normal course of what I do. I think I have said as much before. I do most work with a 3/8" endmill or smaller. When it failed I was simply squareing stock with that 3/8" endmill. My usual habit is to do just as you do, turning it down to minimum before starting and stopping.

[Enraged]

Are these machines really backordered for 3 and a half months? I spent hours reading this thread last night along with Hoss's site only to get to the end and see that now if I want one it'll be the middle of the summer before I get it, maybe.

You can try https://www.machinetoolswarehouse.co...v-p-16277.html

I ordered mine from there, Pat has been very responsive to my questions, and it looks like my machine will arrive in early May. My order with Grizzly wouldn't show up until June/July.