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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking Machines > Haas Machines > Haas Mills > Older Haas DIY cheap Probe - Guide with pics and video
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  1. #1
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    Aug 2013
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    Cool Older Haas DIY cheap Probe - Guide with pics and video

    Hi!

    My first post on this forum. But been reading for quite some time, and this forum got a lot of useful information for a n00b like me

    First off. sorry for my bad english


    So the story goes -> built a mach 3 cnc mill and got tierd of it.. Came across a haas 1996 vf-2 for a reasonable price, and ended up buying and restoring it.
    One thing i really loved about the mach 3 setup was the probe stuff. It made it so simple to probe a bore or position the rotary table and set work offsets, so i was really missing the probe on the haas.
    Since i bought the machine for like 6000$ USD including the 4th axsis rotary table, you get that the budget is not to high, as it`s more of a hobby machine for me now, then anything else.

    I did look into the reneshaw probing systems and stuff, and that would kinda blow my whole "tooling budget". So i was looking for a cheaper option.

    There`s not a problem finding useful information about the reneshaw stuff, but the DIY stuff is much harder to find on these machines, since they are mostly in production compared to mach3 hobby machines.


    So here goes:

    Fist off, i had to figure out the SKIP signal stuff. Since i did not know anything about the skip function, i had to collect the information here and there. So for you out there that`s in the same boat as me, and know nothing about the SKIP , I`ll quickly explain.
    The SKIP signal is an input signal used i combination with some Gcodes, to stop the machine when the SKIP signal is broken or recived (depending on inverted signal or not)
    So the Gcode: G54 G36 X10.0 F50 will move the probe to X10 or stop the probe if it touch something. It then automatically ZERO your G54 at this spot.


    So what I did was to find two wires, connect them to the SKIP input pins on the I/O board and short the wires together, when watching the SKIP input

    Here you can see where to connect the pins. I just stole the "connector" from an old CPU computer fan i had. It fits right on there
    It`s marked 1070 P47 on the I/O board, on the backside of the connector not shown in the pic, it`s says "skip"
    Attachment 334726

    Watching the skip-signal change when shorting the wires together - you will find this under diagnostics -> descrete inputs
    Attachment 334724

    You can invert the skip signal, depending on what style probe you got.
    Attachment 334728

    I Just bought a cheap one off ebay called TP-1000 . I liked the design of the adjusting screws on this one, so that`s my only reason for buing it compared to anyother I found out there.
    Attachment 334730

    Next step was to wire up the probe. I simply did that by using some "ev1 injector connectors" i had laying around the shop. My plan was to use a minijack, but could not find one, and did not feel like going to the store
    Attachment 334732
    Attachment 334734

    Almost eveywhere I was reading regarding probe stuff, Macros where mentioned. So I was a bit confued whether or not i needed the macro option installed to get this to work properly. I dont have the macro option installed on my machine.

    So far so good, I manage to use the G-codes without any Macros, alteast to do the most common probing stuff like bore center and simple work offsets.


    Here`s a small video showing the probe in action:
    https://youtu.be/tLi1rmDhHI4


    And I`ll end this with some code exampels:

    G31 (stores the probed point to memory, used with M75)
    G36 Automatic work offset measurement
    G37 Automatic tool length offset measurement
    G136 is verry useful. Uses the value stored with G31 M75, and the value meassured with G136, and dived`s that in two. to find the center point.

    SO to find center of X in a bore and store that as G54 (I run Metric on my machine, so just a note if the speeds looks a bit off):

    %
    o00002
    G91
    G54

    G31 X30. F1000. (runs in x axis and stop when probe touched something, or 30mm is reached)
    G01 X-1. F200. (goes back to clear the workpice befor a slow measurement is done)
    G31 X1.5 F20. M75 (does the measurement at slow speed, and stores the meassured X value in the memory to be used for later)
    G01 X-1. F200. (clear workpice again)
    ;
    ;
    G31 X-60. F1000. (rapids over to the other side of the bore, and stops when probe touches)
    G01 X1. F200. (clear workpice)
    G136 X-1.5 F20. (slowly meassure workpice and automatically set the work offset to center of the two sides meassured, using the M75 stored value from the opposite side)
    G01 X1.0 F200. (Clear workpice)
    G90;
    G01 X0. F500. ( travel to center of what`s just meassured)
    M30
    %

    Repeat the process for the Y axsis if you want to find the center of a bore/pocket/slot

    For finding an edge or corner of the workpice, use G36, as this will set the work offset directly when the probe touch. Remeber to set the stylus offset under settings 59-62.
    Attachment 334766

    Hope some will find this usefull

    Sorry for all the photos beeing flipped sideways allmost breaking your neck

  2. #2

    Re: Older Haas DIY cheap Probe - Guide with pics and video

    That is really, really good work! My hat is off to you. For all the flash and show along with the price tags that accompany those set ups, for you to have accomplished this the way you have is very good work! Kudos to you. I have a Haimer 3D Taster for an older Haas that they said could not support their probe kit. After reading this, I may just do what you have outlined. Again - Well done.

  3. #3
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    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    2

    Re: Older Haas DIY cheap Probe - Guide with pics and video

    Thanks
    You should go ahead and do it yourself. It takes 1hr to do it, when you know how. And 14 days when you dont

    I`m allso using the 3D taster. What i actually do when probing, is that I offset the probed Z value with the length difference using the G10. So when I put in the 3d taster and jog to Z0, the 3d taster shows 0 aswell. This is nice since all my tool-lengths are based on the 3d taster (tool one)

  4. #4
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    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1

    Re: Older Haas DIY cheap Probe - Guide with pics and video

    This thread is so great.

    I am ordering 2 TP-100's right now. I am thinking I can wire them up in parallel to the SKIPS as you have and use one for Tool setter and 1 for probing.

    I do not have macros either so I am super curious if this works for both.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by reidar85 View Post
    Hi!

    My first post on this forum. But been reading for quite some time, and this forum got a lot of useful information for a n00b like me

    First off. sorry for my bad english


    So the story goes -> built a mach 3 cnc mill and got tierd of it.. Came across a haas 1996 vf-2 for a reasonable price, and ended up buying and restoring it.
    One thing i really loved about the mach 3 setup was the probe stuff. It made it so simple to probe a bore or position the rotary table and set work offsets, so i was really missing the probe on the haas.
    Since i bought the machine for like 6000$ USD including the 4th axsis rotary table, you get that the budget is not to high, as it`s more of a hobby machine for me now, then anything else.

    I did look into the reneshaw probing systems and stuff, and that would kinda blow my whole "tooling budget". So i was looking for a cheaper option.

    There`s not a problem finding useful information about the reneshaw stuff, but the DIY stuff is much harder to find on these machines, since they are mostly in production compared to mach3 hobby machines.


    So here goes:

    Fist off, i had to figure out the SKIP signal stuff. Since i did not know anything about the skip function, i had to collect the information here and there. So for you out there that`s in the same boat as me, and know nothing about the SKIP , I`ll quickly explain.
    The SKIP signal is an input signal used i combination with some Gcodes, to stop the machine when the SKIP signal is broken or recived (depending on inverted signal or not)
    So the Gcode: G54 G36 X10.0 F50 will move the probe to X10 or stop the probe if it touch something. It then automatically ZERO your G54 at this spot.


    So what I did was to find two wires, connect them to the SKIP input pins on the I/O board and short the wires together, when watching the SKIP input

    Here you can see where to connect the pins. I just stole the "connector" from an old CPU computer fan i had. It fits right on there
    It`s marked 1070 P47 on the I/O board, on the backside of the connector not shown in the pic, it`s says "skip"
    Attachment 334726

    Watching the skip-signal change when shorting the wires together - you will find this under diagnostics -> descrete inputs
    Attachment 334724

    You can invert the skip signal, depending on what style probe you got.
    Attachment 334728

    I Just bought a cheap one off ebay called TP-1000 . I liked the design of the adjusting screws on this one, so that`s my only reason for buing it compared to anyother I found out there.
    Attachment 334730

    Next step was to wire up the probe. I simply did that by using some "ev1 injector connectors" i had laying around the shop. My plan was to use a minijack, but could not find one, and did not feel like going to the store
    Attachment 334732
    Attachment 334734

    Almost eveywhere I was reading regarding probe stuff, Macros where mentioned. So I was a bit confued whether or not i needed the macro option installed to get this to work properly. I dont have the macro option installed on my machine.

    So far so good, I manage to use the G-codes without any Macros, alteast to do the most common probing stuff like bore center and simple work offsets.


    Here`s a small video showing the probe in action:
    https://youtu.be/tLi1rmDhHI4


    And I`ll end this with some code exampels:

    G31 (stores the probed point to memory, used with M75)
    G36 Automatic work offset measurement
    G37 Automatic tool length offset measurement
    G136 is verry useful. Uses the value stored with G31 M75, and the value meassured with G136, and dived`s that in two. to find the center point.

    SO to find center of X in a bore and store that as G54 (I run Metric on my machine, so just a note if the speeds looks a bit off):

    %
    o00002
    G91
    G54

    G31 X30. F1000. (runs in x axis and stop when probe touched something, or 30mm is reached)
    G01 X-1. F200. (goes back to clear the workpice befor a slow measurement is done)
    G31 X1.5 F20. M75 (does the measurement at slow speed, and stores the meassured X value in the memory to be used for later)
    G01 X-1. F200. (clear workpice again)
    ;
    ;
    G31 X-60. F1000. (rapids over to the other side of the bore, and stops when probe touches)
    G01 X1. F200. (clear workpice)
    G136 X-1.5 F20. (slowly meassure workpice and automatically set the work offset to center of the two sides meassured, using the M75 stored value from the opposite side)
    G01 X1.0 F200. (Clear workpice)
    G90;
    G01 X0. F500. ( travel to center of what`s just meassured)
    M30
    %

    Repeat the process for the Y axsis if you want to find the center of a bore/pocket/slot

    For finding an edge or corner of the workpice, use G36, as this will set the work offset directly when the probe touch. Remeber to set the stylus offset under settings 59-62.
    Attachment 334766

    Hope some will find this usefull

    Sorry for all the photos beeing flipped sideways allmost breaking your neck
    Hi! I know im picking up on an old thread but i see you connected 3 wires while mentioning you only had to short two. What is this third wire used for? And which of the three are used for the switch?
    My haas motherboard has a 4 pin connector for skip signal, do you perhaps know the pinout for this?
    Thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails lrPXs5F_d.jpg  

  6. #6
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    695

    Re: Older Haas DIY cheap Probe - Guide with pics and video

    This thread was immensely helpful in setting up a cheapo probe on my 2013 VF1 (no macro option). Rather than drop the $8k to the HFO for a renishaw I figured I'd try this out.
    I also used one of those magnetic usb connectors - so I could leave the probe in the tool changer and just magnetically connect it to the wire.

    Things seem to work pretty well, once in a while during probing routine all the axes will move backwards, even though hand jogging works correctly.
    Here are my probing routines if anyone is interested: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3irjikyol...-zw9K-9la?dl=0

    Question on probing Z, using the G36 Z-1 command - is there anything special I need to do other than have the tool height set properly in the tool table?

    And should the G54 Z work offset read 0, regardless of which tool is loaded up and jogged down to the top of the part?

    Sorry for the newb questions.
    Attachment 445666


    https://vimeo.com/user62335169/revie...040/2a3aa22500

  7. #7
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    Join Date
    Oct 2009
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    347

    Re: Older Haas DIY cheap Probe - Guide with pics and video

    Brian,

    Would this work on our Novakons as well?

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    695

    Re: Older Haas DIY cheap Probe - Guide with pics and video

    You mean the quick connect - yeah for sure. Prob not as much of an issue since it doesnt have a tool changer. But on the haas its nice to leave the probe in the changer.

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