[LeeWay]

Does Fusion not like M1?

[daniellyall]

no it's fine, if you don't want M1 you can turn it off

a post on it is here CNC Program Pauses at Tool Chang... - Autodesk Community

[m1n1m]

Those guys want the M1 function removed since they have a automatic tool changer so I understand that. I kinda want the spindle to stop as changing tools while it's moving is not for newbies like me

On a more serious note, the stop is fine by me and I want it like that so I can acknowledge when the tool change is done, zeroed and ready for operation again. The only problem is that I want to be able to jog the machine so I can set zero for the new tool at the same place each time (for that code). I might be thinking wrong here but in my mind setting zero for the tools should be done at the same spot so each tool have the same offset to the workpiece. Now if my program stops at a place where I have surface milled down XX mm that is where I have to zero my tool and then I would have to look in the code for how much was killed off to put in a offset and if the surface was just roughed it would make it even worse since it would not be accurate. I'm not experienced at all in this field so feel free to correct me if my logic is totally wrong I will not get offended at all

[LeeWay]

Are you using Mach 3?
I don't recall. If so, then when manually changing tools that are not in the tool table, all you need to do is zero that tool with Z. This is assuming you have a flat surface. If so, then anywhere on the table is okay to zero the tool at.
You should also be able to tell the machine where the tool change position is and have it go there each time it needs a new tool. Then the surface would not come into play. You would set Z zero at the same spot each time. That was one of my beefs with Fusion 360 out of the starting gate. I could not command a tool change position. Not sure if that is resolved yet or not, but certainly should be.
It can be critical on some of my setups.

[daniellyall]

the tool change is still a bit funny in fusion, if you are using M3 you don't need the M1, you just have the tool change settings set in general logic config ever of the 3 settings I use the middle one never been a problem for 5 years. I have no ATC, most of the time I dont have the home switches on the machines is to big.

omiocnc machines are small use the home switches or add them then have a set spot for tool change where you can put a tool height setter.

[m1n1m]

I'm using mach3 and fusion 360 yes, So the position has to be programmed at a fixed position? I would be happy with the possibility to jog for the same spot but I guess fixing it through the post in fusion could be one solution.

Why don't I have to use m1 when I use m3? I thought the m3 is for spindle cw rotation?

[daniellyall]

I'm using mach3 and fusion 360 yes, So the position has to be programmed at a fixed position? I would be happy with the possibility to jog for the same spot but I guess fixing it through the post in fusion could be one solution.

Why don't I have to use m1 when I use m3? I thought the m3 is for spindle cw rotation?

M3 sort name for Mach3,

the tool change position can be a programed position it does not have to be, I turned the M1 optional stop off in fusion it still does the tool change fine (M6) the M1 is can be used as a safety measure if you by mistake turn the tool change off, by default I leave it on.
are you using the default Mach3 post in fusion

[m1n1m]

M3 sort name for Mach3,

the tool change position can be a programed position it does not have to be, I turned the M1 optional stop off in fusion it still does the tool change fine (M6) the M1 is can be used as a safety measure if you by mistake turn the tool change off, by default I leave it on.
are you using the default Mach3 post in fusion

Ah sorry, my mistake. I do use the default mach3 post in fusion yes and I can see that optional stop is set to on and so is M6. I can not see any setting for where it should go on the table for a tool change. In the tool options I always check off the setting for "manual tool change".

[daniellyall]

Ah sorry, my mistake. I do use the default mach3 post in fusion yes and I can see that optional stop is set to on and so is M6. I can not see any setting for where it should go on the table for a tool change. In the tool options I always check off the setting for "manual tool change".

the setting for manual tool change I have never touched it I turn the tool change on and off in Mach3,

ask on the HSM forum if the post can or does control tool change position, for me it just goes to work X and Y zero and Z machine home zero

[LeeWay]

the setting for manual tool change I have never touched it I turn the tool change on and off in Mach3,

ask on the HSM forum if the post can or does control tool change position, for me it just goes to work X and Y zero and Z machine home zero

Right. It changed tools at home. That is not always or ever in my case, the best place to change the tools.
On my mill, I change the tools between my two vises in the middle of the table most of the time. Saves a lot of time going home and back to work for a tool change. Especially when you have a lot of changes. I was unable to make them see how it would be better to be able to define a specific tool change position. In fact, I don't change tools at Home on any of my machines.

I have one single Fusion generated job I use on my mill for my products. It gets one tool change. I hand coded that TCP in myself.

[daniellyall]

yer I got sick of asking for it to be at work zero all axis not just x and y,(small jobs) big jobs its front left corner for the tool change spot. they are a bit anal at times or even get them to change it so it does not goto machine Z zero at start or end of a job in Z axis.

they are very clever in the box lot, a few are outside the box it was bad enough getting the wrapping function done all the reseller did not want to touch that idea, and no comments at all from ADSK staff, a user did it for me, the fusion team are top dogs in some area's, not so much on the outside the box stuff, what does work if they just give it a go. I got them to do one big change in a update they were quite pist about it god know why it was a good idea, but on the next update they removed it. mult key function in one key like circle there are 3 options it was just push the c key to scroll across instead of having to use keypress plus mouse.

there are other daft thing that happen at tool change time as well what I will try to get changed.

[jyotti]

I wouldn't. Air dusters use a tonne of air and, if you set up with a mister for ali work, it's a continual drag of quite a reasonable amount of air. You're going to need some decent flow to keep up in those circumstances.

I know where you're coming from, though. A noisy compressor running means I can't use the machine in the evenings because I like my neighbours and want them to like me.

Still. Rather than spending a bucket of cash on a new compressor which probably won't keep up, I'm going to be spending a fraction of that on a box and foam lining for my noisy compressor, with a bit of a labyrinth on inlet/outlet and a normal ceiling fan to run cooling and fill air through the insides. Then I have some quiet and a lot of air.

Well after having used Kool-Mist type systems for decades, the not-fog-buster DIY's look to be the ticket. Depending on design, they seem to function quite well down to 15 PSI. Typical builds use 1/8" brass tube with an I.D of 1/16". From this chart Air Flow Through Orifices we see that a 1/16" orifice running at 15 PSI will consume about 1.68 CFM, or 47.5 liters per minute per nozzle, without a tip. So with that, the 23 liters per minute mentioned in the previous post would not be adequate.

I have the 2.5hp Makita (MAC 2400) up in the woodshop and am amazed at how quiet it is, so I wanted to get a dedicated compressor for the CNC to be moved downstairs, and chose the 2.0hp Makita (MAC 700). So now, I'll only have to fire up my 3hp/220v mongo for a 3/4" impact driver The 2.0hp weighs in at about 52 pounds, so it's still manageable to lug around single handed if you need to power a nailer. So, fwiw, that's my recommendation .. Amazon.com: Makita MAC700 Big Bore 2.0 HP Air Compressor: Home Improvement .. Happy Trails!

DIY not-fog-buster videos .. https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...fog+buster+diy
The brass tube (makes two nozzels) Brass Round Tubing, 1/8" OD, 0.061" ID, 0.032" Wall, 12" Length: Metal Tubes: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Resivoir .. Pentek 158117 1/4" #10 Slim Line Clear Filter Housing: Replacement Water Filters: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Regulator .. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDCYKEY?
Solinoid valve (12vdc @120ma)* ..http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IGHNUI?
6mm PU hose .. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MO66FO?
6mm x 1/8" mpt straights .. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ITFO78?
6mm x 1/8" mpt 90's .. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FH6T7FG? (recv'd 90's as pictured)
Needle valve bodies. I got these to play with .. YT vids have construction details if you want to start from scratch.
The needle allows for precise metering of your coolant, which is under resivoir pressure, unlike the Kool-Mist systems
which rely on syphoning effect at the tip. Ymmv .. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FBQ2D62?

*To be powered with my 12vdc@3a controller modification (Noisy Fan thread). Probably .. pneumatic boot as well.
Lottery winners .. click here http://www.fogbuster.com/Fog%20Buste...der%20Form.pdf

[dharmic]

Pressurising the coolant reservoir - kicking myself for not thinking of that! T-piece in the duster feed, needle valve to a 2nd pipe into the reservoir container lid, nice. I need to go buy bits for this but thank you, no need to muck around with a separate pump anymore.

As to tool changes - Tool changes at zero would be about the worst possible place I could think of doing them, from an accessibility perspective! Ideally centre X, max Y, machine zero Z (top) but if the fixtures aren't loaded into the CAM I don't want it automatically doing a rapid through the 4th axis chuck or something like that. So my post just shuts the spindle down after retracting from the last move on the one tool, and I have Mach 3 set to stop and alert on tool changes. I then jog it to somewhere convenient on the workpiece or table (depending on how I've zeroed the CAM), change, touch off, jog it back into the "safe" work cube area again and hit the run.

[m1n1m]

thats just what i want to do dharmic but the problem is that the machine won't let me jog it when it stops for tool changes. Just for a comparison could I get the lines around tool changes to see what commands are used? Mine stops with M1 command (optional stop) but then jog is locked and I can't move it to where I want it to zero and have to zero the machine where it stopped. I agreed with you that stopping it and manually jog it is the best solution if your not doing a bigger run of components but I just can't get that working :S You don't zero the machine again after a tool change incase you managed to move a step on the steppers when tightening up the collet nut?

And do you guys have more noise when moving the gantry in the Y axis (longest axis moving the whole gantry) than in X/Z? I had to loosen the bearing nut at the end of the ballscrew a tiny bit to get it to move smooth but im wondering if there is something wrong there cause the other axis are very silent. I can only hear it when jogging not when the machine is working.

edit: another quick question that I came to think of is why it's possible to jog the machine behind the limit switches? Isn't those there for it to not be possible to hit the mechanical end position?

[Stigoe]

Maybe you have a bad bearing like I had. If you disconnect the stepper and tighten the nut again, when you rotate the screw, does it feel notchy?

Regarding homing after tool change, are you certain it homes at the exact same step every time? I'd say it's a higher risk of "losing steps" by homing than by changing the tool.

[m1n1m]

Yes thats exactly how it is. When I checked this I disconnected stepped and had only the ballscrew on (not the part that is sliding along the linear rails too eliminate the error. I had to loosen the locknut at the end of bearing to get the "ballscrew axle" to go around without being notchy. I can't feel any backlash when doing this but I could of course have introduced that. How did you set this locknut?

[Stigoe]

I tightened it the best I could after assembling everything again. I had a bad bearing. That's why I had the notchy feeling when rotating the ballscrew. Try to remove the bearings and rotate one at a time to see if one of them is bad. It kind of sucks to dismantle the router after it had been assembled, but it doesn't take long to get to the bearings.

[m1n1m]

But isn't the locknut used there for a reason? I thought it was used since it wasn't supposed to be tightened all the way. Isn't it "conical" bearings that are tightened against each other.

[Stigoe]

Could be, but a bearing shouldn't be notchy when you rotate it anyway. In my opinion, they should have used angular contact bearings instead of the two deep groove bearings and they should have been on the motor side instead of on the opposite side.

[zeeflyboy]

Ideally the far end of the ballscrew should be free to float to allow for thermal expansion/contraction.... the bearing at that end only needs to be a radial as it shouldnt be taking any thrust loads. Do not over tighten that nut on the far end of the ballscrew as you'll just cause yourself issues and you will damage the bearings.

The nut that needs to be tight is the one that is on the motor end of the shaft just after it passes through the bearing there... that bearing is the one that will take the bulk of the axial loads - I can't say I've checked what type of bearing it is but I would guess it's probably just deep groove. Problem with using angular contact is that they are only designed for thrust in one direction unless you get a double row, and the bearing doesn't look thick enough for that.

Ideally you would actually have dual bearings at that end of the ballscrew, one on each side of the arm so that you weren't relying on retaining compound in one of the directions.