[Ito-Brazil]

My feeling sad that i must "mirror" the PCB lay-out. I did it, when i saw it on the copper i got the mess.... OH NO !!!!! Now i have no laser printer to mak other lay-out!!!!!!
But to my first try i am happy for now! And the GOOTEE tecnique is very good. I don´t know if it will work with the chemical stuf, but i liked.
This is my first try, i never tryed to do a PCB before.
For those who don´t know how too, see the master GOOTEE page at:
http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg/gooteepc.htm
it could be very usefull to aour hobby.

What do you think guys? :drowning:

[Ito-Brazil]

see ya guys.

[pminmo]

Yep,
Your backwards. Toner Transfer is a challenge at times but I do it periodically. I've probably had the best luck with glossy magazine paper that had mostly printing on it (no pictures). I soak mine in warm water with dish washing detergent. For me the key to the process is getting good even heat. I use an iron on it's highest setting. I also leave at least 1/4" of copper around the layout. Seems when I put it close to the edge, I have problems in that area of the toner sticking to the copper. I have also had better success by putting a piece of plate aluminum down, getting it hot with an iron first, putting the board on it with the copper side up, then laying down the printed paper, then ironong. Seems like the aluminum back helps even the heat transfer.

Phil

[ESjaavik]

@MrBean: My drives can be configured for 200 to 4000 steps / rev.
On my machine, microstepping improves up to 1000 steps/rev, beyond that there is very little improvement. It just places more work on the PC. But this also depends on the mechanic solution. Direct coupled vs. belts (stiffness), ballscrews/Acme screws, CI slides / Ball rails (friction), and general stiffness of machine. I tried full step, it was horrible! Not only the sound, but I was worried about the machine itself. The mechanical resolution is not much better above > 500 steps/rev. The stick slip of the CI slides seems to be the largest factor from there.

I'd go for nothing less than 1/4 stepping (800 steps/rev).

[pminmo]

Ito,
In addition to your TT PCB link, here are a few more from my favorites that are good datapoints:
http://www.clarc.org/Articles/laserpcb.html
http://members.tripod.com/AMN92/PC_B...abrication.htm
http://www.5bears.com/pcb.htm
http://www.geocities.com/idobartana/SSR/makepcb.html
http://myweb.cableone.net/wheedal/pcb.htm
http://www.rwc.yertiz.com/pcb.htm

Phil

[Ito-Brazil]

Phil:
What are you saying? do you simply cut a magazine page and print on a laserjet? Is that right? Why do i need to buy a blank photo paper? wow...

[pminmo]

That's correct. If you have a magazine around that has glossy pages and is mostly just print so there is a fair amount of white. The glossier the better.

Phil

[Ito-Brazil]

Testing the PCB:
Guys, how can i test my board in real stuf, like, moving the motor? What do i need to send the step/dir data to the board? Do i need to low my current to control the steps?
Oh guys i am very exited, ia am about to finish my machine!!!!! My first CNC !
Thanks guy, thanks all of you, MASTERS!

[pminmo]

Ito, you can test he board with a couple of jumper wires and the on board logic probe with just supplying power. See the checkout section of the documentation. WHen you are ready to hookup a motor, a simple pushbutton switch to pin 5 of jp1 the other side of the switch to board gnd. Pusing the pushbutton will should make the motor step. You may get more than one step each push depending on the switch because of mechanical switch bounce.

Phil

[Ito-Brazil]

Hi there, Masters! I got lights !!!! It´s amazing! Just a light made me almost cry, oh.... hhhhehehehe, so i will start to test my PCB, but I don´t understood, do i put a wire on probe pad and toutch something so see the RED (LED2) lights on or OFF? Is that the ON/Off logic probe?
Other thing: tel me what is pin1,2 and 3 to direction...
Thanks guys, i gess i got it, 2 light I already have!

[Ito-Brazil]

:banana: Hey I tested something, it´s OK, but what the hell is the pin 3 and 5 from JP1 ?
I just cant understand very well.
Sorry guys! I am VERY EXITED !
:cheers:

[pminmo]

Great news Ito,
You may have to bear with me a tad, I'm helping troubleshoot a different board in another thread. It takes me a bit to refocus. For the short term remind me which board we're working on so I don't goof. (And I do make mistakes :-) ) JP1 is the dual row 10 pin header (5 pins per row) that cables back to the interface board. Look at the document, pin 3 is dir (direction signal) at the beginning of the document it is shown in pinkish/purple, and pin 5 is step (each logic pulse on this line makes the stepper move)is shown as brown.

Phil

[Ito-Brazil]

:banana: Hey Phill: I drinked a beer remembering your help just now!!!!!
WOW It works, all works!
I gess i will not sleep today!!!!!
I wanna see my motor shake!!!!!! :cheers:

[pminmo]

It all works?

Phil

[Ito-Brazil]

oh its the discrete driver!
Sorry dude!

[pminmo]

Ito,
Not a problem, as long as we get you the right answers.....


Phil

[Ito-Brazil]

Hey Phill, sorry the abuse, but:

In what fet can i put the green, green´, red, red´wires?
thanks dude, you are the king!

[pminmo]

Ito,
I assume you mean motor wiring? If so and just making an educated guess without seeing your motor winding info:
X9-1 green
X9-2 green'
X8-1 red
X8-2 red'

Are you running a power supply the same voltage as the motor voltage rating? If the power supply is higher you need current limiting resistors.

Phil

Phil

[Ito-Brazil]

:cheers: :banana: IT´s ALIVE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Phill !!!! Yahooooooo!!!!!
It´s Alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[pminmo]

Way to go Ito.