Im a bit lost here on ballscrews from kelinginc
I see you had to do some turning work on these.
So im guessing if i buy from kelinginc turning work is needed?
as i wanted to buy ballscrews for when i do mine without the need
for lathe work
Cheers
Im a bit lost here on ballscrews from kelinginc
I see you had to do some turning work on these.
So im guessing if i buy from kelinginc turning work is needed?
as i wanted to buy ballscrews for when i do mine without the need
for lathe work
Cheers
Yup...... I bought the cheaper version as I didn't have to worry about the machining……but yes Keling also have the machined ends available when I looked at their site here is the link http://www.kelinginc.net/1605ballscrewmachineend.pdf not sure if their machined ends will suit your set up......
A lot of suppliers will supply machined ends to your exact measurements and Ballscrew end mounts and bearings but for a bit extra.
Here's Roton's link to their Ballscrews un machined very good prices too...5/8 X .200 Right Hand Recirculating Lead Screws & Nuts for Power Transmission - Roton Products, Inc.
:cheers:
Eoin
Had a bit of CNC beginners bad luck yesterday evening……. running a simple 2 1/2D profiling exercise making new Limit SW mounts….
Simple mistake and I didn't foresee it at the time(chair)....but will never forget it now though.....I exceeded my setting of soft limits in Z axis during programme (I had my Homing Limits Max still 5mm off table)……I pressed Run from next line and Cycle Start and as the X & Y Axis coordinates didn’t match up with the programme I crashed the tool into the work piece……my Estop which is attached to the MPG typically was out of reach at that particular moment......and the End Mill tip broke and the spindle cracked ……
Luckily that’s all the damage that was done……still a costly childish mistake….
Eoin
OUCH.... Man that sucks I am sorry to hear about your unfortunate accident. Been there and done that. Looking at the pictures of the spindle and body on your table with your hands holding it I can't believe how small that thing is. Is that an R8 spindle? I wonder how much it will cost to replace it..? Surprising that it broke there really since it should have been supported around the area with the bearings and the casting of the head. Did it lunch the bearings too? I am always afraid of damaging my dovetails the time or two I crashed my mill. Luckily so far no real damage just some broken endmills (actually a small drawer full) and some scrapped parts. Good luck getting one soon and I hope they can get one to you quickly so you are not down for too long. Peace man...
Pete
Yeah I hear you.......honestly I don't know if it's an R8 spindle I'm not a machinist and I'm still learning the jargon but the spindle takes MT2 collets and Arbors and the drawbar has a M10 thread.
The only supplier that replied to me is from the UK Excel Machine Tools - Superior quality machines at the most competitive price and the part price is £77STG ($119USD approx) and their carriage is £48STG ($74USD approx) pretty steep carriage when the spindle only weighs 400g (14.1095 oz) and they have one in stock so I placed my order this evening.
:cheers:
Eoin
At least ya know you got another one on the way. Good luck with it man and keep up the good work!!:cheers: Peace
Pete
I dont get it! The part is aluminum right? The metal in the spindle just doesnt look like much. It just doesnt seem it should have broke though.
I believe I would make one if I had a lathe, or get a local machine shop to make you one out of something a bit stronger & maybe even do some heat treating. All though starting with the right stock it would not need treating.
That appears to be a 3MT spindle. It almost looks like the walls of the spindle where very thin, and its hard to tell just by pics but it almost looks like the tapper wasnt seating all the way. If you built one you could add some meat to the nose of the spindle if it is thin, and then use the CNC to make the finishing cuts to the tapper.
Jess
GOD Bless, and prayers for all.
I hope this will explain it better but nope...... the part is magnetic (weak though) so Ferrous in origin... And yup I thought about turning it down on my lathe but I'd still need my Mill to slot the groves...and it's definitely a Morse Taper 2 with an M10 drawbar.
I was thinking about why it failed and the only conclusion I can come up with is the fact that the Steppers were trying to move the table, the end mill was down 11mm (0.433") in the stock I didn't hit the Estop for approx 4or5 secconds and the machine and table were banging three or four times under the torque load.
The motors are 640 oz" and while the table was trying to move the Carbide End Mill was bending under the pressure (the only reason I used Carbide is its my sharpest and is new I used it for milling the Ballnuts).
With the pressure and I suppose hammer action under the torque loading this cracked the spindle it's not very clear but you can see the crack in photo 111032 .
It wasn't broken just cracked but t'was I who broke it completely while holding it in the vice and with the pressure of turning the retaining nut in picture 111039 it the photos below...!
:cheers:
Eoin
Oh good that makes a bit more sense than it just breaking from digging in deep on a cut. I seen where you already ordered when I made the post so atleast you will have one when it gets here.
Its a shame it had to happen when it did, I expect like most other people you probably have a long weekend coming. Well you can still make round parts with your lathe:cheers:
Jess
GOD Bless, and prayers for all.
Did you machine the flat on the spindle? It looks like that was the problem. It seems pretty thin at the flat.
Also if your spindle takes MT2 tooling, then that's what you have. An R8 spindle is very different. R8 was established by Bridgeport Machines here in the states. I've heard a lot of people to refer to it as the "Bridgeport Taper" but really it's an R8.
This is MT2 tooling. Notice the long gradual taper.
This is R8 tooling. It has a short taper at the beginning and then quickly pans out to a straight shank.
Hope this helps.
Yeah it sure does help thanks and yup it's definitely a Morse Taper 2 (MT2) spindle…..and nope I didn’t machine the flat either there are two flats at the tool end parallel to each other and this is where you hold the spindle with a spanner while opening the M10 drawbar to release the MT2 collets, arbors etc…
:cheers:
Eoin
thats not so good. looks like it was not hardened properly and became brittle. i have one of those spindles from my weiss wmd16v. its not being used, so i could sell it to you, but id have to pull it all apart to measure it and make sure it was compatible and i dont really have the time for that over the next few weeks.
Well fair play to you….that’s a very kind offer thanks :cheers:…but I have ordered one from a UK Optimum distributer Excel Machine Tools - Superior quality machines at the most competitive price as the supplier I purchased my machine from doesn’t have one in stock.
:cheers:
Eoin
I will really (maybe) get around to tidying up the workshop as some of you guys have very, very impressive tidy painted workshops that put mine to shame, so oh well for the moment ignore the build up of swarf/chippings on my bandsaw table and metal bench and floor and…………
Well I can't do much till I get my new spindle so I've started to “tidy” (wha... me..!) up the wiring and fix the electrical box to the table and fit a PC support bracket so as to free up a bit of space.
:cheers:
Eoin
Once my mill was actually working I found myself wanting to make parts much more than work on the mill anymore so there are a bunch of projects and stuff I still need to do on the machine. I am running some parts right now and the cycle time is looking like 4.5 hours( I almost never run a simluations) so I MAY actually work on part of the mill while this thing is running away by itself. The machine sure is nice once you get the bugs worked out and it is just time to MAKE STUFF!! I still have not worked on my power drawbar yet and I have a few other items that SOMEDAY will get done. My shop is actually halfway clean but it sure could use a good clean up and wipe down. I have insulated walls but there is nothing on the studs but some shelves and stuff. I think I will buy some OSB board and sheet the walls to better insulate them and then I can screw things to the wall anywhere I want... The stuff is also pretty cheap and I HATE DRYWALL ANYWAYS>>haha peace
Pete