[migrusch]

I can't really see the bearing set up in your pictures for the z but looks like you've got a round supported linear rail in the front. I have built plenty machines using these in my life routers and all sorts of production machinery and slides. They work okay with force applied down on the rail but tend to spring open laterally. Can you show us a little more on the bearing set up or the Z. I think you're probably going to be okay if you use higher RPM spindle

This is the best photo I have at this stage.
There are actually 4 bearing rails on the Z axis.
The inner two are opposed bevel type, the outer two are cheap supported rail type.

Currently the front supported rail type only has one bearing unit on it. (there are two well spaced ones on the rear)
I will add a second bearing unit to the front rail and add some gussets.

The bearing set-up isn't ideal, but I ran out of room due to some oversights in design.
As you have pointed out, the supported rail blocks will spread with lateral load.

Attachment 204034

[dick cnc]

Keep us informed and don't get discouraged. You may be able to get some test cuts done by mounting a trim router to the Z and trying some test cuts. Before you build your spindle

[migrusch]

Ok, So I have some progress on the spindle, for those who are interested.
So much effort has gone into this one part it probably deserves it's own thread.

Recap of what I am trying to achieve:
I am running an ER-20 collet, only wanting to machine aluminum.
I am looking for a max spindle speed of 10K RPM.
Running a two pulley system and VFD to give good speed range without too much torque compromise.
Toothed timing belt drive.

I started down the more 'normal' path with a large lump of thick wall pipe. The plan was to turn this up to provide bearing mounts at each end and a mount to the Z arm. The biggest issue for me was turning the two bearing housings concentrically, this is obviously critical and sadly beyond my turning skills.....

So my solution is not elegant, but overcomes the issue with concentricity. I essentially built a block with parallel top and bottom faces and modified some flange bearing housings. Before tightening the bolts holding the housings to the main body, the spindle is tightened (BTW, I am running TRB's) which centralizes the two bearings.

In this photo the unit is test assembled. It still needs some clean up, painting, lubricating etc. Also the oil seals are missing here.

Initial runout measurement is +/- 0.0007

Attachment 204468

Attachment 204470

[migrusch]

Some Pictures of the spindle build...

Attachment 204474
The spindle, just a 200mm ER20 straight extension. I brazed in a fine thread rod to the end (after failing to be able to tap the hole that was there (too too hard).
I will cut this down later and turn most of the thread off to mount the drive pulleys. The thread is just for the locking nuts.
Also, the bearing flange mounts here are for some sort of transmission bearing which has a spherical body, more about that later.

Attachment 204476
So I started with a piece of 90x90mm RHS which was milled flat on the ends.
4 holes cut each side for mounting bolts. I placed through tubes into these, then welded and ground flat.
The tubes are more to stop the bolts wandering when being put in rather than 'crush tubes'.

Attachment 204480
Here I am attaching the top and bottom plates. These are 10mm thick. A central clearance hole is drilled and there are 4 holes for the bearing housing bolts (drilled undersize at this point). I used some quick and dirty aluminum plugs and some threaded rod to align and clamp the plates for welding.
There is overhang on three sides (not the back side for mounting to the arm) each of these is fillet welded.

Attachment 204482
Here the plates are welded and the first plate is being face milled. For the other end, the already machine end was clamped down to the table.

Attachment 204484
The bearing housings are for a different type of bearing (transmission, spherical type). I needed to machine a little out to match the 47mm outer dia of the 30204 bearings.

Attachment 204486
This is the test mounting. Here there are no oil seals which will be added later. The initial run out is +/- 0.0007 which I am fairly happy with.
What I did not show is that I also made two spacers (one each end) which also serve for the lip seal surface.

[migrusch]

Gotta learn to rotate those pictures, sorry.

[migrusch]

Some pictures of mounting up the spindle to the Z axis.

I used my new vice to align the plate before tack welding.

Attachment 205258

Attachment 205260

Still a few small features to add to the arm (holes for wiring clamps, guards etc) before painting and final mounting.
Main task now it to adapt and mount the pulleys. Then I need to dream up a clever belt tensioning system (any good ideas?)

[migrusch]

With the 6" vice I bought (see pics below) I want to change the mounting and was hoping from some ideas from forum....

I want to remove the rotary base (seems unnecessary with CNC). However what I want to do is set up some stops to alow qucik alignment to the table.
I was thinking of a block that references to the rear edge of the table, just not sure how best to mount it to the vice.

Ideas?

[Fastest1]

where are the pics?

[migrusch]

Pictures were in the post below, but here is another just incase.

Just a standard milling vice (Vertex Brand)


Attachment 205274

[whateg01]

With the 6" vice I bought (see pics below) I want to change the mounting and was hoping from some ideas from forum....

I want to remove the rotary base (seems unnecessary with CNC). However what I want to do is set up some stops to alow qucik alignment to the table.
I was thinking of a block that references to the rear edge of the table, just not sure how best to mount it to the vice.

Ideas?

Many people machine a groove in the bottom of the vise in which is bolted a bar that fits snugly within one of the t-slots. Of course, this doesn't allow the vise to be rotated like you want to do. I don't see why you couldn't make some sort of alignment jig that bolts to the table, and aligns with the slots, and allows the vise to nestle up next to it while being bolted. Or it could attach to the vise. You might mount a piece of 1/4" Al to the bottom of the vise with bolt holes in the right places to allow a block to the rear edge. Of course, the thickness would have to be uniform, but most of the pieces I've gotten were more uniform, except for dings, than I could measure.

Just my 1.4¢.

Dave

[paul3112]

Hi Migrusch.

I too am in Kew, Melb. Australia.
Regards Paul

[migrusch]

Let there be light!

2 x 10W LED Floodlights on the Z


Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk

[whateg01]

Nice! I have to get some light in my machine someday.

[Fastest1]

Those are huge, what did you pay each?

[Stigoe]

If they are the same type as I ordered earlier today, then they are about $10-13 shipped for 10W.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Those are huge, what did you pay each?

10W 2700LM Outdoor White Light LED Waterproof Floodlight Landscape Lamp 85V 265V | eBay

I've been using these on all of my machines for several years. Lots of light, virtually no heat. And, it's easy to "remote" the power supply, so you don't have 110/220V anywhere near the "wet" areas of the machine.

Regards,
Ray L.

[migrusch]

1 payed $12 ea shipped from china.
They are 12v which I already had spare capacity in my psu to run.
They are outdoor lights... cant remember the IP rating, but well sealed.

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[dick cnc]

The light looks great keep up the good work. Looks like your real close to making some chips. Keep us informed

[Fastest1]

They claim to be 85v-265v. You are running them on 12v?

[bjones]

They claim to be 85v-265v. You are running them on 12v?

that was from the link of the other poster, migrusch says his are 12v and cheaper outdoors models so i'd say no he's not under powering them. i'd feel safer at 12v.