[Iron-Man]

After removing the plastic pulley, I found that the motor shaft diameter is .234 inches. The new pulleys that I have, have an inside diameter of .250" This causes a slight wobble. What would be the best way to correct this situation ? Should I try to lathe out a small sleeve, .016 aluminum foil etc. I have also completed the prototype reducer assembly, here are some pictures.

Thanks

[jmelson]

the motor shaft diameter is .234 inches. The new pulleys that I have, have an inside diameter of .250" This causes a slight wobble. What would be the best way to correct this situation ? Should I try to lathe out a small sleeve, .016 aluminum foil etc. I have also completed the prototype reducer assembly, here are some pictures.

Thanks

So, that's a 6 mm shaft. A .008" thick piece of shim stock should be a good fit. I would not try to turn such a thin-wall sleeve. Get an assortmet pack of shim stock, and trim off a piece and roll it around the shaft. It may be tight enough that you will have to go down to .007" to make it fit.

I always buy my timing pulleys with the smallest hole they come in, and turn the ID to the desired size. This also allows me to assure the hole is concentric - I have had some that were outrageously off-center.

Jon

[Iron-Man]

Thanks Jon.
Would You recommend aluminum or steel for the shims?

[diycnc]

steel would work better

[jmelson]

Thanks Jon.
Would You recommend aluminum or steel for the shims?

I have a kit of brass shim stock in over a dozen sizes. I think brass would work fine. If you have steel, that will work just fine, too. I have not seen aluminum shims in the thinner gauges, and would worry about the aluminum cold-working (squeezing) out of the space between pulley and shaft as the pulley rotates and works against the shaft. Brass has worked for me in a few places under these circumstances for years.

Jon

[Iron-Man]

Thanks for the info.