[jips]

This the best i can shoot of

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[mactec54]

jips

Your machine is not the same as the standard,so most likely has a different Transformer, we can't see enough in the photo to be sure of what you have, all the details are needed even if you have the model number and manufacture

[mactec54]

This the best i can shoot of

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If this is all there is for Grounding there is a Problem, this is no way to Ground a machine like this

Take a close look at this photo the wire is not connected correctly, you may have others like this as well

[jips]

Can't see the ways of the pcb behind but don't you think all the green/yellow wire are converted to the groud of the socket plug bottom right

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[jips]

If this is all there is for Grounding there is a Problem, this is no way to Ground a machine like this

Look at this photo the wire is not connected correctly, you may have others like this as well

I have checked all the connection yesterday i may do this today moving cable ( the red one of the primary that is not connected and was behind this pcb) I replaced it

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[handlewanker]

Do you recall what the definition of insanity is? Doing the same thing repeatedly, expecting different results.

I would like to draw your attention to at least 100 posts in this thread where people tried to convince you that there is a good reason to use a pneumatic power draw bar.

If you are still really convinced that you want an electric PDB, then you should really take a look at the one Ray designed for the Novakon. His uses a small UPS style lead acid battery to ensure the motor has enough current to tighten and loosen the power draw bar.

Hi......repeating the SAME mistake is insanity, but the design of this electric PDB was a compromise and as it failed is proved to be so........I won't be repeating the same design using 24 volts on a 12 volt device.to get more oomph.

It was assumed the design I bought was good to go, and as I didn't want to devote time to building my own I bought it as an option......I understand that Skyfire will not be standardising this design for future mills.

BTW.....I also WON'T be going to an air solution until Hell freezes over even if a hundred sinners nudged me in that direction.......LOL.
Ian.

[mactec54]

I have checked all the connection yesterday i may do this today moving cable ( the red one of the primary that is not connected and was behind this pcb) I replaced it

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Because you can't show a solid Grounding system,in your photos, I think there is a major problem in this area, what you have shown has not been done/wired to any electrical code

[handlewanker]

Hi, as I have a file with practically all the photos of the build from day 2 or 3, I'll attach a few that might be pertinent.......some might be superseded by later designs....whatever.

BTW.....the earth connections are all linked together to go to the input cable socket.........all you need to establish the earth integrity is to use a multimeter on the earth pin of the connected mains cord and then check all earth points you come across.

BTW2.......with electronic stuff there is/can be a heat build up, unless you over design the componentry......having the transformer at near the consumption level (for economy) is a sure way to get over heating..........going to 2 or 3 times capacity is one way to ensure long term reliability.
Ian.

[G59]

I think there is a major problem in this area, what you have shown has not been done/wired to any electrical code

Wow. I see a lot wrong. Just with the wire colors alone, I have to wonder how it ever got CE certification. No way it would ever pass UL or CSA like that. Where is the ground lug/stud?
I'm also puzzled as I can't see any smoothing caps before or after the rectifier.
If they're there, they are well hidden, as they are usually of substantial size. Or maybe I'm stuck with old school electronics in my head, and todays transformers don't need them?.
UL and CSA standards are easy to follow and meet.
No effort made here and it shows.

I'm also puzzled as I can't see any smoothing caps before or after the rectifier.

Found it. Still undersized for my liking. But it's there.

[handlewanker]

Yeah....seek and ye shall find....LOL.

The saga of the non operating electric power draw bar is solved.......or at least the problem is now apparent as to why it failed.

The smallest component often bears the heaviest load, like rectifiers, diodes and transistors........in this case it was the wire that connected one of the carbon brushes to the supply line.

The wire is a braided copper wire embedded in the carbon matrix, and it broke off flush with the brush body.

It's lucky the end of the wire got stuck in the plastic housing or else there would have been a large spark discharge and possibly a fire as no fuse is fitted in the line to the transformer.

So that makes the build still functional as long as the connection can be remade.

I've ordered a few brushes on EBAY and in the meantime I'll try a dodge by filing a small groove around the brush and wrapping some fine wire around it then soldering it to the connecting wire.

BTW.....in the course of trouble shooting the power continuity, I measured the power at the transformer at 24 volts AC......after it went to a rectifier and a capacitor the voltage stood at 32 volts..........I hope the wire broke off from handling during manufacture or assembly and didn't burn through.....the motor is rated at 12 volts.

NOW......I know how the dam thing works I can see the method of adjusting the actuator spindle to the draw bar top.........which opens another can of worms........the top of the draw bar has suffered some damage.....mushrooming..... from the actuator spindle pressing down on it..........the top of the draw bar has been turned down from a threaded section and also drilled and threaded inside........why I cannot understand as this leaves the top of the draw bar with a 1mm wall thickness.

Jips will most probably have the same drawbar top for the air cylinder to press down on, so buddy, expect some wear in that quarter.

It's possible the air cylinder will act faster than the electric one and have a hammer action whereas the electric one is more of a continuous push........hypothesising.

Now that the power actuator is off the mill I'm going to clean up the draw bar top end and see if a domed cap screw can be inserted to make it more wear resistant......... failing that I'll make a hardened steel cap to go on the top end.
Ian..

[jips]

Jips will most probably have the same drawbar top for the air cylinder to press down on, so buddy, expect some wear in that quarter.

I will

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[jips]

So , first want to thank you all guy's ! For your help and support , the over voltage problem is FIX ! I just quit from Skype with Defeng , show him photo and my transformer was an upgraded one from the old rightly to manage over voltage so i just change my blue primary by the red and now I got 44.7Vdc at my drivers input , so to resume wiring mistake and easy fix . Stress can down now , thanks again guy's i will let the mill powered on for a while to see if it stay stable

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[jips]

Because you can't show a solid Grounding system,in your photos, I think there is a major problem in this area, what you have shown has not been done/wired to any electrical code

Can't see what you mean by electrical code and solid grounding can you post a photo for example or give a link to what it looks like ?

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[jips]

BTW i call my electricity company to made a diagnosis of my house power to check stability of the line and also to know if my ground is well because it's an old house and i'm not proprietary so it's will be a good thing to know that , then i will know if it's judicious to put a tension stabilizer and/or put a better grounding setup

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[LeeWay]

Here is an image of a star grounding point I pulled off the web. It is a bit over occupied and I might have used two points with that many wires.

That one also doesn't look like an actual lug. They make actual grounding lugs that would be much better than just a screw through a threaded hole in the panel.

[jips]

Here is an image of a star grounding point I pulled off the web. It is a bit over occupied and I might have used two points with that many wires.

That one also doesn't look like an actual lug. They make actual grounding lugs that would be much better than just a screw through a threaded hole in the panel.

Why it need be to be grouded to the enclosure if my socket plug managed the earth

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[jips]

Here is an image of a star grounding point I pulled off the web. It is a bit over occupied and I might have used two points with that many wires.

That one also doesn't look like an actual lug. They make actual grounding lugs that would be much better than just a screw through a threaded hole in the panel.

Do I need to connect this to the encosure maybe ?


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[LeeWay]

There may be more than one grounding point on that circuit board and it may be grounded fine already. The pictures I have seen so far aren't clear enough for me to make out a grounding point to the control box, but yes, the box itself needs to be ground too. It should be grounded from your real earth ground coming from you house or it's own rod. It will then act as a buss bar so connections to it ground. If you have ever touched a metal box or piece of equipment and received a small shock, then you know that wasn't properly grounded.

At times you could get a shock just opening the door from my Father In laws old shop. He did not have a ground rod for it.
He only had the main feeds and grounds running to his panel and it was mounted on plywood. No electrical boxes were grounded. It was a steel sided building. A accident waiting to happen. If you could wire it wrong, he did it that way. I was amazed that anything worked in there. Especially him.

[mactec54]

Why it need be to be grouded to the enclosure if my socket plug managed the earth

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It's normally a little tidier, than that photo, that gives you the general idea of what is missing from how a system like this should be wired, it is unsafe the way it is wired, you can not loop a Ground wire from part to part, this is call a Ground loop and nobody wants this in there system

Why do you ask such a question, Why it need be to be grounded to the enclosure???

It's to protect You the User and the Hardware in your cabinet

[jips]

Because I thought that ttoroidal transformer is act as a galvanized isolation :" Transformers*couple by*magnetic flux. The primary and secondary windings of a transformer are not connected to each other (an*autotransformer*has a conductive connection between its windings and so does not provide isolation). The voltage difference that may safely be applied between windings without risk of breakdown (the isolation voltage) is specified in*kilovolts*by anindustry standard. The same applies totransductors. While transformers are usually used to change voltages,*isolation transformers*with a 1:1 ratio are used in safety applications.

If two*electronic systems*have a common ground, they are not galvanically isolated. The common ground might not normally and intentionally have connection to functional poles, but might become connected. For this reason isolation transformers do not supply aGND/earth pole.
"

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