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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783

    New Z axis for my 80/20 router

    Replacing the acme/cncrouterparts bits that are on it now, and that have served me well.

    IKO LWES 15 rails $50 Ebay

    THK 1505 C0 ground ballscrew with Bearings $100 Ebay

    5/8" Mic 6 surplus $40 Ebay (S&S machine)

    Cut with a destiny tools viper 1/4" 2 flute for aluminum, .06" DOC 12500 rpm, 40+ IPM.

    7.75" travel. Bolts directly to the 80/20 1530 upright on the machine.

    Turned out better than I thought it would, finish with the Viper end mill is fantastic!

    Backlash is around 3 steps, or .0003" makes me want to get some 1610 ballscrews for the X and Y now..

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    99
    Looks nice.

    Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk 2

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783
    Thanks, I am surprised how nice the Mic 6 cuts, seemed easier than 6061, like the chips don't weld themselves back to the edge.

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    1036
    Congrats. That is absolutely beautiful!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783
    Thanks Don! It's not the first aluminum project I have done on the router but is the biggest/ most precise. I ended up within .002" where it counts and .006" everywhere else

    The Viper end mills for aluminum work great, the 3/16" 3 flute is almost silent except when plunging.

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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783
    Finally got all of the little bits and pieces to be able to get it in use, works great! No measurable backlash (even with it laying horizontal with no spindle attached) once everything was tightened properly, steps per inch went from 4000 to over 10200, but still managed to keep 250 ipm rapids on the z, x and y are at 375. Finish in the bottom of pockets that get re plunged in on already look better. Funny the worst part was re engineering the home and limit switch mounts.



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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    84
    Anyway you would share the cad files for this? Email me if so thanks.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783
    You would need a specific THK ballscrew/bearing block (found surplus on Ebay, list price is over $1200) and Iko lwes 15 or equivalent rails to use the files without modifying anything...

    Also it's all done in 2D cad and 2.5D CAM

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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    84
    The reason i asked is I have hiwin 15mm rails and I can modify the files a little to fit the ball screw. I can also cut 2.5D with my machine. Anyway just wondering. Thanks

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783
    I'll clean it up some and post it.

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  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    84
    Thanks, The excitement awaits.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783
    Sorry for the delay, I'll try to post it tonight.

    I have been testing the precision on it by probing coins, the results look great!



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  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    267
    Awesome job, really nice looking Z you built there!!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    584
    Great Job! I've been meaning to do the same thing for a while but have not gotten around to it.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783
    Still not sure how useful it will be, but here is the CAD for the aluminum parts, all cut from .622" Mic 6 tooling plate.

    Chrome wont let me upload to CNC zone for some reason (why CNC zone feels the need to be fancy pants with their forum software I have no idea) so here is a LINK

    Dylan

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    84
    Hey Dylwad what cam program did you use to generate the tool paths?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783
    Deskcnc. None of the Gcode was saved, parts were done in stages and files overwritten in the process, sneaking up on accuracy. A nice feature of CAM embedded into the machine control, almost like manual machining with semi complex features using CAM.

    99%of my usual parts are tiny (2-4 per square inch), so my machine is calibrated to 1 inch, since it's a router with acme screws accurate to .006"+ per foot, larger aluminum parts need some tricks to get accurate results.

    Used a tooling plate (corian), drilled and tapped holes for holding parts down, stuck the stock down with thin double stick tape and center drilled holes, drilled through on a drill press, parts go back on the plate with tape and bolts holding them down, machined one side, flipped and machined other side where needed.

    Will be nice to have a mill that can hold .002" or better without jumping through hoops some day

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