[Radian Racing]

My Dorian toolpost keeps on shifting when I do Knurling.
Not sure how much torque I can put on centre bolt of dia 3/4 inch on toolpost to keep it solidly in one place.

Any advice please.

[underthetire]

A lot. But if you really want it to stay put for knurling, place a piece of sandpaper under the post and clamp down on that. You have two very smooth surfaces right now causing you the problem.

[DEAN]

Exactly how much torque is a good question.
I use a 16" long wrench to tighten mine. I tighten it as tight as I can get it without actually putting my foot on the machine to get it tighter.
Doesn't move and I drill from the post too.

[Geof]

Reef on it like a demented Gorilla; if you tip the lathe over you are pulling too hard.

[Radian Racing]

Did do the demented gorrilla thing but giggled so much about the image in my mind that I fell of the lathe.

Think I solved it somewhat.
First one must undo the top nut totally, clean it and grease it. Want no friction in the threads. All the demented gorrilla power must go into loading the bolt.

Then I googled and found that the bolt pending what class (I assumed highest class) could be torqued up to 288Nm.

So I fetched my old 300Nm torque wrench, oiled the rust away a bit and went for 230Nm on a geased nut and washers it seems to have cured the problem.

Did write to Dorian and they replied that they use a 2inch pipe on the wrench. But I have no idea how long this pipe is so the answer not really usefull to me.

[Edster]

You could always pin the toolpost to the t nut with two dowel pins. the bottom of my dorian toolpost is setup for this, I just haven't got around to doing it. I do like it to slip if something goes terribly wrong though.

[Radian Racing]

Something goes wrong then the post does give a little but not enough anyway. You end up with a very funny looking knurl tool if you try to take 2mm cut into EN19T bar at 2000RPM feeding at 028 mm per revolution using the knurl tool. Also did reshape a parting tool when I tried to knurl with it.
This is a problem of the TL1 manual toolchanges. You make a mistake if you do not concentrate all the time.

So I did now fit the pins. There is still about a 0.05mm runout (play around the T-nut) so you have to still line the post up and use the gorrilla torque wrench to get it all set absolutely true.

Anyway at this time the TL1 is paying for itself rapidly which is not what I can say for my VF3 which seems to struggle to pay for itself and the machinist.

[AMCTony]

2" pipe = big wrench with usually a 2 or 3 foot pipe on the handle. Great way to get something either really tight or busted. Hey, you have a machine shop. If you bust it make a new one

[Radian Racing]

Tool "hangs" down and this is problem in drilling with carbide or U-Drill.

I have 0.05mm drop over length of dorian toolblock along the z-axis. Can one adust the cross slide to level this out or is the only way here to fit shim stock and get the error removed that way?

[KenFoulks]

Indicate the Dorian tool holder and the cross-slide, if both are good, you can shim the tool post to compensate for sagging.