[JAW]

I am cutting a part that is round to rectangular with compound angles on both ends. The setup for this is no problem until I get to the final compound angle. If you have any ideas on the final setup I'd appreciate it.

I've attached a sample file of what I am doing with the multiple setups and final part.

[hub]

Leave some rest material for the last step maybe and fix it to an angle plate?

** EDIT**
The taper would be the other way around, bigger towards the rest material..

[job_it]

Leave some rest material for the last step maybe and fix it to an angle plate?

You will have to cut the last part with a ball end mill or a tapered mill.

[JAW]

Leave some rest material for the last step maybe and fix it to an angle plate?

In this pic the green parts are extra material where I will clamp on to it with machinable jaws. The big square end will be milled down to remove the excess stock, then I can easily mill the compound angle for that end. Once that is done the small rectangular end will be milled down and that end will receive a compound angle too.

The second pic shows the final part straight on at front, right and back view.

[hub]

In this pic the green parts are extra material where I will clamp on to it with machinable jaws. The big square end will be milled down to remove the excess stock, then I can easily mill the compound angle for that end. Once that is done the small rectangular end will be milled down and that end will receive a compound angle too.

The second pic shows the final part straight on at front, right and back view.

Yes, that would work I think

[JAW]

What I am trying to figure out, is how to hold it, so I can mill the small end and cut the compound angle because this will be all that is left

[hub]

What I am trying to figure out, is how to hold it, so I can mill the small end and cut the compound angle because this will be all that is left

I'm assuming you are doing this with a 5+ axis?
So, I would leave enough stock to fix it for the last operation. And the last would be to cut the part off the rest material. Maybe I'm not understanding correctly.. What machine are you using?

[job_it]

What I am trying to figure out, is how to hold it, so I can mill the small end and cut the compound angle because this will be all that is left

if the whole part is tapered then mill the small end of the cone first. Cut a mold the small end will fit in. Put some side setscrews or clamps. then mill the large side.

[JAW]

I'm assuming you are doing this with a 5+ axis?
So, I would leave enough stock to fix it for the last operation. And the last would be to cut the part off the rest material. Maybe I'm not understanding correctly.. What machine are you using?

I would prefer to keep this 3 axis if possible. I may have to look at doing this in 5. I am working with a Haas ES-5-4T, horizontal mill.

[JAW]

if the whole part is tapered then mill the small end of the cone first. Cut a mold the small end will fit in. Put some side setscrews or clamps. then mill the large side.

I think that may work!

[hub]

I would prefer to keep this 3 axis if possible. I may have to look at doing this in 5. I am working with a Haas ES-5-4T, horizontal mill.

OK..
In my opinion that part would be difficult to make on a 3 axis. Because there are internal & external tapers.
But MAYBE, do the internal taper first (through the rest material). Then, flip the part and do the external taper & facing. Then fix the part 90deg & cut off the part from the rest material..

[job_it]

I would prefer to keep this 3 axis if possible. I may have to look at doing this in 5. I am working with a Haas ES-5-4T, horizontal mill.

You just have to make sure the part doesn't rotate. your mill will provide the down pressure. I would use a .75 or 1" plate and mill a segment up the part a straight cut will be fine. . If you are milling alu. then place wood or plastic on edges where it makes contact on the walls of your cone shape

[JAW]

OK..
In my opinion that part would be difficult to make on a 3 axis. Because there are internal & external tapers.
But MAYBE, do the internal taper first (through the rest material). Then, flip the part and do the external taper & facing. Then fix the part 90deg & cut off the part from the rest material..

This may be a better option as I could mount this in the rotary chuck and part it off to maintain the compound angles and even cut the outside taper

[JAW]

You just have to make sure the part doesn't rotate. your mill will provide the down pressure. I would use a .75 or 1" plate and mill a segment up the part a straight cut will be fine. . If you are milling alu. then place wood or plastic on edges where it makes contact on the walls of your cone shape

Maybe I could make a set of jaws to match the outer shape and that would encompass 1/3 of the length of part. It would not rotate due to shape of the part.

[txcncman]

Ok. I am going out on a limb here.

Why are you wanting to machine a part, that to me, is obviously a sheet metal part? Do the specs call out for this to be made from a billet/solid? To me, this is a piece of 1/8" wall round tubing that has been swedged to shape.

From my viewpoint, this part can be made by machining the inside taper and the overall length first. Then make a fixture to be held in a vise, for the part to slip over with the small inside taper up with a plate on top to clamp. The top clamp will only cover about 1/2 of the wall thickness. Then machine the outside taper.

[JAW]

Ok. I am going out on a limb here.

Why are you wanting to machine a part, that to me, is obviously a sheet metal part? Do the specs call out for this to be made from a billet/solid? To me, this is a piece of 1/8" wall round tubing that has been swedged to shape.

From my viewpoint, this part can be made by machining the inside taper and the overall length first. Then make a fixture to be held in a vise, for the part to slip over with the small inside taper up with a plate on top to clamp. The top clamp will only cover about 1/2 of the wall thickness. Then machine the outside taper.

It is a type of part that more often then not made from sheet metal. But in my industry it is becoming the preferred way to make these. Most of the time when some one buys one of these, the compound angle has been milled on one end and the other end has been finished off on a band saw or belt sander. I would like to do it all on our machine.

I have thought about something like this. But after milling the outside taper, I would go to cut the angles on the small end, and cut through the plate clamping on the part. Then there would be nothing holding the part down. I could make the fixture plug a little over sized for an interference fit and perhaps that would work to keep everything in place while the angle are being cut.

[txcncman]

Let me look at your file again. I must have missed these small angles you mention.

[JAW]

In the file the angles are represented by the large surface that is at 10 and 12 degrees.

Thanks

[txcncman]

Ok. I think I get it now. Your file was a little confusing and did not show only the finished part.

Now I say the top hold down will be a sleeve that fits the outside part shape and is clamped around the outside, exposing the entire top edge for cutting, while holding it against the inner plug.

[JAW]

I was trying to show the entire setup from start to finish in the file.

I think that is a great idea for the sleeve.

Thanks to everyone, I have some good options to try out.