[ZeroBacklash]

I have a tabletop CNC that's beginnig to rust. The rust has started to show up especially on the ball screws. While reading for solutions on CNCZone I came across Fluidfilm. I just need to confirm if its OK to use FluidFilm on ball screws / nuts etc.and any other movable parts on the CNC machine.

They seem to have different grades of liquids and gels. It would helpful if the sages here suggest what grade would be best for a CNC machine.

[spumco]

I have serious rust problems in my shop and have tried quite a few things, including Fluid film.

I've used it on my mill and lathe - acceptable results in between machining sessions. However, it does not hold up to flood or mist coolant and you lose the protection - this is with two different brands/grades of coolant. Also keep in mind that fluid film is not an appropriate lubricant for ways or ballscrews - you need way oil or some other load-bearing lubricant.

I've since switched to Spray-on indoor metal protectant (LU-767). This seems to work significantly better, although switching to a different coolant and using distilled water probably made a bigger difference on my mill. Much easier to apply than fluid film and it dries to a soft dry-ish film that doesn't seem to build up or get gloppy.

For longer-term rust protection Spray-on and other companies make long-term outdoor-rated rust protection products. These are all, as far as I can tell, basically a wax in a solvent. Wets out on the surface and creeps in to crevices and then when it dries it forms a semi-hard wax. This stuff is superb for avoiding rust, but the buildup can be annoying in certain applications.

The first (and last) time I used it on my mill table I carefully removed the wax from the table where I was working, but the hot chips embedded in the wax I didn't remove and simply wouldn't flush off with a washdown hose or air blast. Had to use a degreaser to clean the chips... But for a lathe faceplate that's going to sit for 6 months nothing beats it.

I still use fluid film around the shop, but not on the machine tools.

[ZeroBacklash]

I have serious rust problems in my shop and have tried quite a few things, including Fluid film.

I've used it on my mill and lathe - acceptable results in between machining sessions. However, it does not hold up to flood or mist coolant and you lose the protection - this is with two different brands/grades of coolant. Also keep in mind that fluid film is not an appropriate lubricant for ways or ballscrews - you need way oil or some other load-bearing lubricant.

I've since switched to Spray-on indoor metal protectant (LU-767). This seems to work significantly better, although switching to a different coolant and using distilled water probably made a bigger difference on my mill. Much easier to apply than fluid film and it dries to a soft dry-ish film that doesn't seem to build up or get gloppy.

For longer-term rust protection Spray-on and other companies make long-term outdoor-rated rust protection products. These are all, as far as I can tell, basically a wax in a solvent. Wets out on the surface and creeps in to crevices and then when it dries it forms a semi-hard wax. This stuff is superb for avoiding rust, but the buildup can be annoying in certain applications.

The first (and last) time I used it on my mill table I carefully removed the wax from the table where I was working, but the hot chips embedded in the wax I didn't remove and simply wouldn't flush off with a washdown hose or air blast. Had to use a degreaser to clean the chips... But for a lathe faceplate that's going to sit for 6 months nothing beats it.

I still use fluid film around the shop, but not on the machine tools.

Thanks for sharing your experience!
Would Fluid film also form a wax like layer on the ball screws or wherever its sprayed on?
In that case would it tent to clog the ball screw / ball net etc. and cause further problems?

There is some significant build up of rust on a particular ball screw that I want to remove so my first priority is rust removal rather than anti rust. Fluid film website says that the solution attacks rust and that it drops off. Would the likes of LU-767 also help in rust removal.?

[109jb]

Iron out that you can get just about anywhere will remove rust but will require removing the screw. I have de-rusted long pieces by mixing a strong concentration of iron out and water, putting this in a capped PVC pipe and then inserting the piece to be de-rusted. If you cap the other end you can then agitate it every now and then to improve the results. I have used this method to remove rust pits from chrome parts on cars I have restored. It removes only the rust. This method also works well on painted parts removing the rust and leaving the paint on. You can also use oxalic acid which works better but is harder to get. Works the same.

[ZeroBacklash]

Iron out that you can get just about anywhere will remove rust but will require removing the screw. I have de-rusted long pieces by mixing a strong concentration of iron out and water, putting this in a capped PVC pipe and then inserting the piece to be de-rusted. If you cap the other end you can then agitate it every now and then to improve the results. I have used this method to remove rust pits from chrome parts on cars I have restored. It removes only the rust. This method also works well on painted parts removing the rust and leaving the paint on. You can also use oxalic acid which works better but is harder to get. Works the same.

Thanks for the fine suggestions!
I haven't done the dismantling of a ball screw before. I guess there's always a first time.
I just hope I can put it back together once I get it all opened up.
Having said that, the screw is beginning to rust from one end it may have rusted about 2-3 inches from one end.
Haven't you had any success in a kind of spray or brush applied solution that doesn't need removal of ball screw?

[109jb]

iron out or oxalic acid is the best method I have ever found for removing rust without any damage to surrounding metal. There is always a scotchbrite pad as well.

[spumco]

The LU-767 won't remove rust. And fluid film won't remove tight surface rust on it's own, just the big flaky stuff you find around outdoor equipment. If you need to get surface rust off I suggest using some fluid film or other oil and rubbing with 0000 steel wool. OIl it, rub with the wool a little, then wipe the brown goop off and repeat.

The steel wool won't damage the hardened screw, but it will remove the rust and the oil/lube/whatever helps keep the rust from turning in to a dry, abrasive lapping compound (assuming you clean it off frequently.

And the fluid film doesn't form a wax, more like a very thin oily coating that isn't runny.

If the rust hasn't made it to the ballnut yet I'd suggest not disassembling it. Leave it on the ballscrew and remove the rust from the screw. Then protect it with the fluid film, oil, or the spray-on stuff (or similar).