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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    1863

    Some very useful tools

    Here's some pictures of an edge finder and a tool set block I have been using fot the last 10 years or so. They're expensive, but it makes set up go a lot faster.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails EDGE FINDER.jpeg   SET BLOCK.jpeg  
    You can buy GOOD PARTS or you can buy CHEAP PARTS, but you can't buy GOOD CHEAP PARTS.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    0
    Hows that work then? normally a edge finder is connected electronically to the BOB,don't see any wiring to the standard DTI that you can buy cheap or expensive depending how accurate you want it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    1863
    There's no mechanical ot electrical connection on either one of them. In your offset page, you just dial the edge finder to zero and press touch on you X, then repeat the procedure for the Y axis and you're done.

    For the set block, you turn on a 1.0000 inch offset correction and run tool down till the indicator gets to zero and press touch on the appropriate tool number and your done. With this block, I can set 6 tools in 3 minutes or less.
    You can buy GOOD PARTS or you can buy CHEAP PARTS, but you can't buy GOOD CHEAP PARTS.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    789
    How does that edge finder work? Does it deflect in 2 axis? Is it true to the spindle center?

    I use the Tormach TTS dial indicator all the time for finding the top of the work surface as Tool 1, and it's beautiful.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    656
    The 3D-Tasters are very cool. You put the ball against the edge you want to zero (X, Y or Z) and move that axis. When the needle points to zero, hit zero in Mach and go to the next axis. Very much a luxury over a standard edge finder with the subtracting and adding diameters, but one I find highly useful. The only irritation about mine (an eBay special) is the 20mm shank which required me to make an adapter.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    789
    Are they more accurate? I find that my mechanical edge finder or "electronic" (light up) one are only good to maybe 2 thou.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1863
    This Taster will get me within about .0004. If I have to be any closer than that, I don't want the job.

    I can also use it to pick up the center of a hole. Like I said, I have used it for about 10 years, and it does make set up easier and faster.
    You can buy GOOD PARTS or you can buy CHEAP PARTS, but you can't buy GOOD CHEAP PARTS.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1332
    Quote Originally Posted by tbaker2500 View Post
    Are they more accurate? I find that my mechanical edge finder or "electronic" (light up) one are only good to maybe 2 thou.
    I find my Starrett 827B mechanical edgefinder good to ~0.0005". The trick is to look down the axis of travel so when the edgefinder “kicks out” upon contact you see the contact event with maximum effect. i.e. the "kick out" is perpendicular to one's line of sight.

    Also I don’t know how one uses a 3D Taser with the ball end to easily find the Z-axis datum of say a roll pin or tooling ball datum marker. I use a TDI tool with an elephant foot for finding the Z-axis datum on often measured parts that are fixured at an angle using a roll pin or special tooling ball. All of my tool heights are measured offline on a surface plate and entered in the tool table. Then I only have to measure a single Z-axis datum. No need for a tool set block with the issue of chipping a hard surface on a tool like an endmill either.

    Don


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    0
    Like I said, I have used it for about 10 years, and it does make set up easier and faster.
    Well yeah,but....what if someone wants one on here would like one,I mean you're not exactly giving any information were to purchase or buy from.

    Not that I'm interested meself like as I'd go for BOB orientated one.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1863
    Quote Originally Posted by HorridHenry View Post
    Well yeah,but....what if someone wants one on here would like one,I mean you're not exactly giving any information were to purchase or buy from.

    Not that I'm interested meself like as I'd go for BOB orientated one.
    I bought mine from Travers Tool in about 2000. They were pretty new then and I think I paid close to $500.00 for it.

    I just looked it up in the Travers tool catalog, and the 3D Taster ( item 57-030-41 ) is $424.99, and a replacement tip ( item 57-030-42 ) is $49.35.

    When I bought it, I still had about 15 years left to work, and I was very much into whatever makes my job easier. I'm still that way. That's why I have a Tormach and not a Bridgeport.

    BTW, what is a BOB?
    You can buy GOOD PARTS or you can buy CHEAP PARTS, but you can't buy GOOD CHEAP PARTS.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1332
    Also for quickly finding the center of a hole I built this tool using an interapid 312B-1V indicator and Daedal ½” positioner.

    Don


  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1863
    Quote Originally Posted by Don Clement View Post
    Also for quickly finding the center of a hole I built this tool using an interapid 312B-1V indicator and Daedal ½” positioner.

    Don

    Hey Don,

    I like that tool. I still use a Interapid indicator to find the center of a hole as well. I haven't figured out how to do it on the Tormach with the Taster yet, but I learn something new on it almost every day. Someday when I have lots of time I'll figure it out.

    I'm trying to get my brother to buy one of these machines. He has a wire EDM shop in Newberry Springs and he has a bunch of Dyna-Mite mills. I have 2 Dyna-Mites as well, and next to the Tormach, they are just toys. They have 6.2 inches of X travel, 5 inches in Y and 4 inches in Z, and they rapid at a rip snortin' 30 IPM.

    Oh yeah, I forgot. About a month ago I stumbled on a 6 inch 3 jaw Hardinge chuck with top reversable jaws. The guy wanted $175.00 for it and it looked brand new.

    Steve
    You can buy GOOD PARTS or you can buy CHEAP PARTS, but you can't buy GOOD CHEAP PARTS.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    46
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Seebold View Post
    Hey Don,

    I haven't figured out how to do it on the Tormach with the Taster yet, but I learn something new on it almost every day. Someday when I have lots of time I'll figure it out.

    Steve
    Insert taser tip into hole approx in the centre. Jog to min x edge and reset X DRO when taster indicates zero. Jog to max x edge. When taster indicates zero the DRO will read the length of the chord (or diameter if you happened to be on the centre axis) use the command line move the spindle to the centre to G0 x? where ? is half the X DRO reading and zero the X DRO. Repeat for Y axis. I usually jog up in Z before using G0 incase of finger trouble to avoid breaking the tip.

    The closer to the centre you start the more accurate the results so repeating the process a second time will improve the results.

    Dave.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    1041
    Nice setup ! My fav hands down is the TTS probe, love this tool.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    2512
    Heres the 3D taster:

    Haimer GmbH - Sensors

    It's very useful for quickly referencing a part on all three axes, but is also expensive.

    Phil

    PS: I believe Tormach stock them.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    656
    I use offline tools with my taster. It took a bit of work to get the taster length set when it was at Z-zero, but once done it only needs doing once.

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