"...there for it will be clamping on 4.75mm on each shaft, will this be enough" - You're kidding, right? That might work for about 2 minutes... with no load... if you're lucky....
Regards,
Ray L.
"...there for it will be clamping on 4.75mm on each shaft, will this be enough" - You're kidding, right? That might work for about 2 minutes... with no load... if you're lucky....
Regards,
Ray L.
I agree, the clamping type are suspect of slipping, I got done because the screw type were on back order, you can drill, tap and use a set screw to concert them. If your shafts have a flat they will hold well once this is done.
Regarding the tightness at the ends of the table, have you verified your ballscrew on the X axis is not going into a bind? If the the bearing carriers at each end of the table are not concentric with the ballnut center. The screw will begin to bind near the ends of the table travel where the flexibility is reduced due to the shorter remaining ballscrew span.
You can check it with a dial indicator gauge mounted to the mill base and have it ride in a grove of the ball screw, as the table moves watch and see how much movement you have, it usually becomes more pronounced near the end of travel if its out of alignment.
If its out, you can take this time to center the outer bearing carriers or ballnut mount, both may need to be adjusted to get it right. This will help smooth things out as well and reduce drag and vibration from the screw "whipping".
If you didn't do this during initial assembly with the ball screws, it would be a good idea to go through and get it lined up now before trouble shooting any other symptoms.
Hope that helps!
Chris
Ok, "some" of my order has come and they look like complete rubbish ! They sent the incorrect parts and they look quite poor quality for the money. I've arranged to send them back so I'm now yet again in the hunt for some bloody couplers. Does any one any where in the world know where I can get the couplers I need. I've never had so much hassle finding parts like this hahahahah
Here you go! This is from the US, but they are Ruland top quality.
McMaster-Carr
You can mix and match metric and inch sizes. I suggest if they are in stock getting the set screw type but if you get the clamp style you can drill tap and add a set screw and they won't slip.
Chris
That place looks awesome ! It has everything I need but is across the pond. Does anyone know if I could get any in the uk ?
McMaster-Carr is also next to impossible to buy from if you're not in the US, even if it is only nuts and bolts.
Ive tried to order from them and the lock the website down and i can't view anything now ! They're really trying to sell it to ya aint they !!
Anyone else in the uk available ?
I'm glad to say I have FINALY found some decent couplets in the UK !
If anyone wants Ruland Couplers in the UK search for RS Components. They have a fair range of the make. It's cost me £60 for 1 axis !! Let's hope they are as good as their reputation
On another note I received the Chinese version of the Tormach tool holders and I have to say I'm impressed ! They look very high quality and feel great !
I do have one issue however, I purchased a 3/4" MT3 spindle collet to hold the tool holders and the collet touches the inaccurate part of the holder. The face of the spindle does not contact the machined face of the holder. I'm tempted to cut the spindle collet down a bit so it contacts correctly.
Also for those that own the Tormach tool holders do you have to hit the draw bar to release the tool holder ? I've seen in videos people just undo the draw bar and the tool drops out.
Cheers,
Olly
Sometimes I do have to hit the draw bar. Sometimes not.
You will need to true up the spindle end. Then you can expect clean tool drops.
Lee
I think your collet should be in a bit farther than that?
Andrew
Something is massively wrong there. Even a regular Morse taper collet should be almost flush with the end of the spindle. A TTS Morse collet should be within about 0.05" of the spindle nose. Either that collet is hugely under-sized, or your spindle taper is hugely under-sized. No collet, of ANY taper, should EVER stick out anywhere near that far.
Regards,
Ray L.
Right. It should seat right on the spindle nose.
Lee
Where did you get the tool holders from?