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IndustryArena Forum > MetalWorking > Moldmaking > Need Suggestions: Which type Plastic should I use?
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Results 21 to 26 of 26
  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4
    I'm guessing $3500 US for a steel mold and $.50US per set to run in low volumes.
    Am I close?

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    61
    My own suggestion would be to abandon the project altogether and not add to the growing knife problem.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    73

    Don't use nylon

    These are easily made with thermoplastic or thermo-set urethane. What you use depends on the volume you are going to need.

    I would suggest molding the grippy part with a 60A durometer urethane and then molding the attachment section in 75A urethane.

    Go to Chemtura and check out Adiprene and Vibrathane for thermo-set material. Reinforce the 75A with functionalized Kevlar particles from Inhance, although I doubt you can break the virgin material with an axe.

    Nylon's, even long-fibre reinforced nylon is too brittle and too expensive for this type of project.

    Make the tools yourself out of aluminium. If you go it alone you will need a curing oven and a method of heating the components. If the volume is small enough that can mean a kitchen stove or two with a really good fume hood. The tools have to be pre-heated but that is about 10 minutes in the oven.

    Even in units as low as a few hundred the cost of the handles should be less than a couple of bucks each.

    Cheers,

    Bloefeld

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    382

    Talking

    I would ask stu m3 what he is using to cut his been sprouts with. Or how do they cut their pasifist buddie down from the haning tree. Wow! Growing knife problem? When knifes are outlawed only outlaws will have knifes, oh and me too. Never brought a knife to a gun fight. Any way sorry for the side track. Your mold from an injection moldling shop like our (45.00 per hour rate), would be more like 10,000 to 15,000 for a 2 cavity tool made from H-13. Run full automatic with sub gates. Kevlar is over kill (Sorry stu m3) Nylon 6/6 would be what the military uses in the product we mold (it goes bang), Don't let Stu m3 read that. And for all you scoff laws just remember lighter are on the list right after knives. Sorry I got off the subject. We any way it is time for the head count here in D block talk to you later, got to go make a shive to stick the guard with. Just having fun. pretty soon the government will want to register your full automatic knives. And don't even get me started on what they will need to do to the good old Swiss Army Knife. Sorry Stu M3 just had to have fun. By the way those damn leathal tooth picks are next.
    Jetski (alias Tooling and Engineering Czar)
    "I may not have the keys to success.. but I have learned to pick the locks"

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    382
    Dear Bloefeld, You would not want to run Kevlar in an aluminum tool, unless you wanted less than 50 to 100 pieces. It is so tough it will roll the parting line in an injection mold tool. Nylon 6/6 is a military specification for alot of product. Kevlar cost to nylon cost will be a bunch different. I believe GE sells both of these materials. If you want to see some more nice looking knifes go to seldom seen knives he is out of Yellowstone Steve has some nice stuff. Not to piss of STU m3 but Steves knives will cut stuff.
    Jetski (alias Tooling and Engineering Czar)
    "I may not have the keys to success.. but I have learned to pick the locks"

  6. #26
    We have had very positive feedback from military purchasers of these knives.

    It does look like I will continue to mill the grips from glass fibre plastic. Costs for a steel mould were around $9,000 allthough I did get one figure that was less but I have doubts about the ability of the company to actually come through on the deal.

    Right now I am working on a moulded sheath system for the knives. It seems the sheath system is going to be very important as it should be mole compatable and heat resistant.

    Thanks to all those for the positive suggestions.
    www.wilkins-knives.com

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