[LaserNOT]

Boy, I'm getting my money's worth now huh Zax?
Thanks so much for your help.

So, let me start off by asking another one. Ha haaaaa

What's the deal "saving" the files?

I make up an imported picture, add some text in a coupla
places and do the job, then save the file with a newname.ndr

Well SOMETIMEs Maybe, the best I can get is the text if there is only
1 text item.

It would be good and handy to build a file, save it, then next time you need it
you only have to "load" it. While on the subject sort of, what about the engrave menu staying set to the co-ord's of the most past job. No matter what the current file is, looks like there would be some kind of link?
Am I nitpicking or just plain doing/not understanding something, which is VERY likely...
thanks again

[zax15uk]

I know what you mean. The .ndr file only saves the design screen and not settings from the engrave screen.

It is actually similar to my vinyl cutter (plotter), but my CNC router allows you to save the Gcode which later can be used to repeat the job exactly.

I often put text notes in the design so they are saved - that way when I reload the job later I remember the settings.

I'm not sure if you are also saying you've had problems with the file not saving correctly, but I haven't experienced that. I use Newlydraw on XP and XP Pro systems and it hasn't had any issues.

Zax.

[Magritte]

Could I put a 60 W laser tube in a 40W machine like the 3040 I own. Would it be physically too big or just overheat etc?

[zax15uk]

The tube is physically longer, and would likely require a different PSU (although I have seen some manufacturers use a standard driver board capable of being set for 40 or 60W).

Zax.

Could I put a 60 W laser tube in a 40W machine like the 3040 I own. Would it be physically too big or just overheat etc?

[LaserNOT]

I know what you mean. The .ndr file only saves the design screen and not settings from the engrave screen.

It is actually similar to my vinyl cutter (plotter), but my CNC router allows you to save the Gcode which later can be used to repeat the job exactly.

I often put text notes in the design so they are saved - that way when I reload the job later I remember the settings.

I'm not sure if you are also saying you've had problems with the file not saving correctly, but I haven't experienced that. I use Newlydraw on XP and XP Pro systems and it hasn't had any issues.

Zax.

No, I'm not having any saving problems.
That is interesting though what you said about a text note in the file. That would be fine, atually perhaps a better idea since the engrave menu isn't saved.
How would you do that? Just type in a box or something? Just don't want it comming out on the work.

[zax15uk]

Yes, exactly. I just create a notes box and place text in it.

When you output the job you just don't select that information box, or if you want you can place it on the 'do not output' layer.

So JT, did the file I sent to you make sense - have you solved the mystery of alignment between sides/jobs?

Zax.

[jinqianglaser]

Hi Magritte,
Usually, laser machine with 60w tube could change into 40w if you have a 40 tube, if you want change 40w into 60w, i am afraid laser tube and laser power all need to change.

[LaserNOT]

Zax, I haven't used the file yet, unforseen problems keeping me at work late the last few days. Probably will get a chance to look this weekend though, thanks for your help. I'm sure it will be perfect, IF I can understand all that. I'm getting better though.
I did the "text" idea on a coupla files, and wow, what a great idea.

Another subject.
I've dreaded this, and wanted it at the same time. I'm in the process of making a "file" that has ALL the fonts printed out in SIZE NUMBER 3, of newlydraw.
So far, it is 2 pages, and will likely take most of the 3rd to finish.
So, when I get it done, I'll be happy to email you a copy of the file/s if you could use it.

I want that so I can put on the wall by the machine and be able to tell at a glance what
font I would like to use. I've already printed out the "SIZES" of the "fixed" ones.
There are several fonts that won't display, no matter what size I make them, so they won't be included of course.

In any case, I had originally thought I would like them printed out on a nice plastic mtl which is black top, gold center with the "scan" setting.
However I was shocked at the time it would take! 1 page, over 7 hours! Believe that?

Holy cow, so I went thru and reset everything (1 by 1) to the "cut" setting and got the 2 pages down to 5 hours per page. Any suggestions here or am I going to just have to gut it out? I should be done in a few days, so I'll send it to you if you want.
JT

[zax15uk]

JT, well I install/remove fonts very frequently as I have so many (>10,000). I use an application like 'The Font Thing' to manage them which allows me to quickly scan the fonts with the text I want to see for easy selection.

I also do all but the most basic designs outside of Newlydraw, usually in ArtCam.

If you just want to have a list of the fonts, why not just print them to a printer?

The material you mentioned, is it specifically for laser engraving? The reason I ask is many of the multiply materials are for rotary engraving and contain a lot of PVC to make them soft. This will quickly destroy your machine, and depending on your exhaust your health too!

Zax.

[LaserNOT]

Wow, thats alot of fonts.
I tried to print them out from newlydraw and the results were totally sucky. I had the "page" full of fonts, selected print and about 4 types printed, 5-6" tall and only printed 1 page. Something messed up there.

Does newlydraw look to see what fonts I have already then accept them, or does newlydraw have it's own set of fonts? I'm amazed that newlydraw has some of the exact same fonts that for example my corel has, or ms word...

If I understand this font thing correctly, I would say there is a directory on the hard disk somewhere that contains "installed" fonts. As you add a new program, it would be "scanned" and any "new" fonts would be installed to that directory then of course since it is a "common" directory, those "new" fonts would instantly be available to all the other programs.

To answer your "plastic" queston, I've been using some regular "plexiglass/acrylic" some. But I use much more of a product called "Flexi-Brass" by rowmark, which is a plastic with a gloss coating the lazer burns thru. I hope it isn't hazardous and how ( I get the fume part) would it hurt my machine?

And....how would I go about printing out my font list?

[LaserNOT]

I've answered myself on the font print out issue. A great little freebee program called akfontviewer is available all over the web, it addressed all my issues, for free! And I suppose each program does have its own "find the fontlist on this computer" routine/s built in.
I almost freakin amazed that the chinese software even recognizes the fontlist, but I suppose it would be pretty useless if it didn't. Maybe THAT'S where they spent the bucks on their software development! Ha haaaaa. Clearly didn't spend much in the "help" department!
JT

[zax15uk]

I hope it isn't hazardous and how ( I get the fume part) would it hurt my machine?

The chlorine from polyvinylchloride (PVC) combines with air to form hydrochloric acid - and that instantly corrodes metal. You will notice the screws that fix the table top down turn to rust color in a few seconds, don't ask how I know this :-)

Zax.

[zax15uk]

how would I go about printing out my font list?

Most of the font viewers allow you to print lists, 'The Font Thing' that I use does and its freeware.

I find it more flexible to review fonts with the program because you can type in the sample font you want and see exactly how it will look.

Zax.

[LaserNOT]

Zax, what are you using to "center" your work.
For example, I'm having some trouble. I engrave pocket knives for a company and seem to have a problem with centering, up & down. Seem to be ok with the left to right, but just can't nail the horiz.

The best way I've found is to "draw/frame" to get a box drawn on a piece of paper on the table. Then I use a straight edge to extend the outside lines. Then I carefully measure the "center/s" of the box and draw a light line thru those (centers).

Then by eyeball, I set the knife down and line it up with my drawn lines. Most of the time it works pretty well, but these knives are very piniky as far as showing detail/s (read: errors) and I want to keep this customer.

Of course I realize I probably won't ever get it exactly right, but I've got to get closer.
Any ideas?

Thanks
JT

[LaserNOT]

Hey Zax,
What's the deal? I've noticed from the first day I got this thing, I have "wandering laser" on some of my pictures. It ruins the picture. Sometimes I can sand the scar out if on wood, but if in plastic, glass, it totally ruins the piece.

Zax, every thing works perfect and then I load a file ( I seem to notice it is the larger files pretty much) and it starts out fine. Then for no reason, it'll just take off in verticle or horiz direction, beam on full blast which just cuts a line straight thur work...then usually it will just pick up where it left off. Some times it only does it once, other times it does it maybe 3 or more times. Its very random, and if I turn quit all software, do a manual shutdown/power off all items, then reboot, load pgm/s on laser and (hopefully I haven't touched the workpiece) I try to re-pass. It picks up perfectly and then it hiccups. Mostly it's in the same place, but again not always...
This has been driving me crazy and is now starting to cost alot in wasted mt'ls, time.
Any ideas? I've maxed out the computer with ram, 4 gb's. Tech's said xp won't see more than that. That improved computer performance, but very little if anything to newlydraw.
AND it didn't fix what I thought may have been a memory problem.
Thing is, its so random, but not uncommon anymore...
Any ideas?
Thanks again..

[LaserNOT]

Hey buddy again,
I've been getting busy and that's why so many posts, thanks for your help!

I've also had to SLOW down the engrave speed to 4 (from max 8) which doubles the time, on the larger pix. I understand that. I by trial & error have found that it makes kind of a grumbling noise if it goes too fast. Eventually, if left that way, usually pretty early in a large picture, the thing will "jump" time and start engraving 1/2" left, or right (randomly) from what I can tell.

If I hear the machine grumble, I shut down and reset speed and come in from a fresh reboot. Can't tell if that really helps or not, but just don't want any widows hanging around. However, if the picture had one of the "bumps" in it, the reboot will not help. The thing still jumps to the previous "left or right" error.
I even tried to "re-make" the picture from the original scratch scanner picture, and still got a "relocation of the picture" about 1/2 thru picture.

Change to another picture, engraved all the way thru just fine. Exact same settings.
???
This is happening alot lately, (I'm getting more orders...) This is driving me nuts??
Thanks.

[zax15uk]

what are you using to "center" your work

JT, well it depends. On something like a knife, where you need to be precise I will either draw a template like you describe or use the adhesive 'foamies' (very cheap) and cut the shape out so it makes a nice pocket to place the knife in... for repeatable and exact placement.

Zax.

[zax15uk]

it'll just take off in verticle or horiz direction, beam on full blast which just cuts a line straight thur work...

This is most likely from the parallel cable, or the machine not being grounded to the same path as the PC (causing a ground loop).

If you are using the cable provided with the laser I am not surprised, it's junk... and also the power cable.... those have been known to short out and cause a fire (insulation crack from bending or just breaks down with time).

Replace the cable and ensure it's screwed in to the posts at the PC and clipped on at the laser, then ground the laser to the same outlet that the PC is plugged in to.

If that doesn't fix it, check the internal grounding is all connected.

Zax.

[zax15uk]

kind of a grumbling noise if it goes too fast

The steppers are losing steps, most likely due to friction from either the axis needing to be adjusted or the pulley system needing lube or possibly from the motors getting hot and the bearings beginning to bind up.

Slowing it down will help as the steppers have more torque. This is the reason higher quality systems use servo motors with encoders for feedback, they are smooth and won't lose steps.

Zax.

[LaserNOT]

Dude, you are such a wizazrd!

This is just a question here. I built a special room, a/c, wiring, etc just for this laser/business.

I know for a fact that the house ciruit is grounded and that these 2 wall plugs (maybe 4 ft. from each other) are indeed grounded, and are on the same ciruit. One wall plug for computer/monitor, another wall plug for laser power supply & a printer and they are both of course on the same 20amp breaker. I figured, you know, 1 breaker, 1 place to go if trouble develops.

So I have no doubt that the CIRCUIT is grounded. I would assume that the computer is grounded as it's an acer (name brand) thru the 3rd prong via the power cord.

Having said that, the power supply for the laser was purchased seperatly from the laser, and has what appears to be a overseas power cord. It has an "adapter" for the USA 110v outlett. It also only has 2 terminals output, where the laser connects. Apparently they don't use a "neutral" side on their 220.

The laser has the same of course, so if I'm following your thoughts, there is indeed no neutral/ground for the laser, except from the frame to the "house" ground. I do have that connected via aligator clip from the wall outlett screw, to the "frame" of the laser, using THEIR supplied wire and connection.

It appears to me that there may indeed be a false grounding as you said. So since I'm going to "re-do" a quality ground from laser to outlett, should I go ahead and make up an alligator clip type ground from the COMPUTER case to the LASER case? Do you think that is advisable?

And, I don't remember if I used THEIR parallel cable, or one I had. I'd bet that I used "theirs". I have a ton of those laying around, and I think I'll go ahead and change it out anyway. I have indeed "wiggled" all the internal wiring connections and they appear to be solid and tight.

Thanks again Zax, it is appreciated, and hey, at least we're giving them something to read...?

JT