[Hans_G]

Well, Hans... I think you're RIGHT!
Bad news for me. I kept on looking around Mach3 and guess what: the Tool Path stops on line 501. So... No more than 500 lines in Mach3 for free.... Big problem since I can not afford it now and I have to create these plates before July. I think my option is to download the Demo and see if I can go around the issue meanwhile. At some point I hope I can buy Mach3 and whatever I need in the future. I need to do this and I know I can do it.
I am able to create those lines with Cambam. The dead end is in Mach3. Tell me what you think, but I see you said it before.

You might try splitting the gcode file into several 500 line files until you can afford the Mach3 license. You might have to massage the files to get them to run smoothely, but it'll work, just run one file at a time til all the text has been plotted/engraved.

Another free option might be EMC2 & linux. Again I have no experience with EMC2. If you've worked with linux, probably not a big deal. If you haven't, it's another learning curve to climb.

Edit: when attaching files like .dxf or .cb, you can put them in a zip file. The forums will allow you to attach a zip file.

[joshuadri]

You might try splitting the gcode file into several 500 line files until you can afford the Mach3 license. You might have to massage the files to get them to run smoothely, but it'll work, just run one file at a time til all the text has been plotted/engraved.

Another free option might be EMC2 & linux. Again I have no experience with EMC2. If you've worked with linux, probably not a big deal. If you haven't, it's another learning curve to climb.

Edit: when attaching files like .dxf or .cb, you can put them in a zip file. The forums will allow you to attach a zip file.

Hi, Hans
I worked with Linux before, Ubuntu, and I liked it a lot. The problem is the software that you need to run on it. EMC2 runs on Ubuntu, probably, but what about Cambam? Or... What do you use to engrave on Ubuntu?

Staying where we are right now: how can I split the Gcode in three parts? I am no sure I understand what you're saying. I think we are talking about engraving a line first, then the second line and for last the third line, on the same piece of aluminum sheet. My problem would be to place the bit on the right spot since the space between lines has to be the same. Can it be done manually, I mean, placing the z axis on the right spot? I don't really understand, so please tell me.

[Hans_G]

Staying where we are right now: how can I split the Gcode in three parts? I am no sure I understand what you're saying. I think we are talking about engraving a line first, then the second line and for last the third line, on the same piece of aluminum sheet. My problem would be to place the bit on the right spot since the space between lines has to be the same. Can it be done manually, I mean, placing the z axis on the right spot? I don't really understand, so please tell me.

Manually splitting the file- the idea is to look at the gcode and determine where the cuts are complete and split the file into lengths shorter than 500 lines. Split the tool path inbetween cuts- where the tool comes up and is about to rapid to the next location to start cutting again.

Use any text editor, preferrably one that will display the line number so you can find line 500 easily. Then look (search) for a Z up to your clearance plane, i.e. G0 Zx.xx where x.xx is the clearance plane value in the engrave MOP in CamBam. This is a good place to chop the file. So cut and paste everything up to the G0 Zx.xx into a new file and save it (i.e. Engrave1.nc or whatever). You might want to copy the last few lines of mcodes to end the file (plan for this in your 500 line limit). In CamBam, those lines will look like

M05
M30

If it were me, I would copy and paste the comments and preparatory commmands from the original file to start all of your files. This will look something like

( This file was created automatically using CamBam )
( http://www.brusselsprout.org/CAMBAM )
( 5/5/2008 10:22:19 PM )
( T0 : 0 )
G21
G90
G64
G00 Z1.5
( MOPEngrave_2 )
( T0 : 0 )
M06 T0
M03

Now copy the next not-quite-500 lines up to a G0 Zx.xx into the file and save as Engrave2.nc (or whatever) and the shutdown lines (M5 M30) as well and repeat the process til your original file is split into shorter files that will run to completion in Mach3.

[joshuadri]

Hi, Hans
I've got it. I understand now. I tried to explain it to my partner in crime ( my mother in law) and she told me something that is true: we're better off buying the Mach3 since we'll be doing many plates and it looks like a lot of copy and paste, files to run in certain order and so on. After all, $175 bucks is not a big deal, she says. I couldn't agree more It takes the headache off my side

Anyways... It seems like we'll get it soon, since by the end of this month these trophies need to be delivered.

I started playing with Cambam and the positions of the X and Y axis. I was able to make this thing to write the same line more or less to the right or to the left. This means I know now how to repeat an engraving text on the same line so at the time of cutting the aluminum sheet it would be neater, like cutting off two plates with a single cut (we'll be using a guillotine to cut the aluminum sheets).

It would be better if I could just create a big file with, let say, 12 text engraving sets, so I send it to engrave and come back the next day or the next couple of hours and just cut them off.

I remember that conversation about creating dxf files, cleaning them up and so on. I tried that on Cambam and I couldn't do anything. My idea was to create a text engraving sheet that holds many plates to be engraved at a time. No idea. If you give me a little hint I'll do it

Well... It's late and I need to go to sleep... to start all over again in the morning

Thanks a lot, Hans. I think you've made things happen tonight

[Hans_G]

Hi, Hans
I've got it. I understand now. I tried to explain it to my partner in crime ( my mother in law) and she told me something that is true: we're better off buying the Mach3

I agree. Mother-in-laws can be a lot of things, but in this case she is very wise.

If you give me a little hint I'll do it

You can copy and paste the original text object in CamBam. There is a CamBam feature called "ArrayCopy", but it might not be in the free version, can't remember. With the copy of the text object you will have to move it to a new location. This is accomplished with the text's transform property. It is best to read the CamBam tutorials to see how this is done.

Option 2: Apply another Engrave MOP to the same text object. The MOP will have a "gcode origin", which is basically an applied offset for the gcode it outputs. If you want X engravings per plate, make X Engrave MOPS each with the right offset. Then create a single gcode file by right clicking the "Machining" node/folder in CamBam's treeview- this will combine all gcode from all MOPS into a single file. Just make sure everything looks right in Mach3 before cutting, if not, adjust the gcode origins and re-create the gcode file and verify in Mach3 til it does look ok.

Option 3: See if Mach3 has a way to repeat the cut with an offset. This is usually referred to as "Part Nesting". Maybe someone who knows Mach3 can chime in here as to how this would be done.

There are probably more ways to do it, but that ought to be enough to get you going.

good luck!

[joshuadri]

Great, Hans!
This will help me a lot. Either option looks ok to me. The second one probably the better one, since I've been playing oround with the GcodeOrigins in Cambam and I already know where the engraving is going to start when I change the X value. I'll be playing with the Y value tonight.

Now... I sounds like I'll need a simulator since the Tool Path window in Mach3 is not that clear to me. I'm going to take a look at the one called cnc simulator.

Well, Hans... Thanks again. I'll keep you posted

[escott76]

Option 3: See if Mach3 has a way to repeat the cut with an offset. This is usually referred to as "Part Nesting". Maybe someone who knows Mach3 can chime in here as to how this would be done.

There are probably more ways to do it, but that ought to be enough to get you going.

good luck!

Go into MDI. Lets say you wanted a 4" repeat in X, G0 X4.0 and re-zero your X. Go back, rewind the program and hit start again. I believe that there are ways to do the same thing automatically, but this is easy, and you have some interaction between cuts so you can see that things are where they should be.

[joshuadri]

Go into MDI. Lets say you wanted a 4" repeat in X, G0 X4.0 and re-zero your X. Go back, rewind the program and hit start again. I believe that there are ways to do the same thing automatically, but this is easy, and you have some interaction between cuts so you can see that things are where they should be.

Thanks, Escott. I'll take a look at that option too. Take care :rainfro:

[joshuadri]

UPDATE... PROBLEMS...
Hi, guys
I've been playing around with a diamond tip engraving bit to do my text on a aluminum sheet. I've created a .cb file with the word "HOLA" (Hi, in English). The cut depth is set to 0.03 for the whole four characters, since it is a single line. I've created the Gcode from it and sent it to engrave.
Well... This is what happens: the first character is engraved not quite deep enough for me, which it's not the problem. The problem is that the bit goes to the other side of the sheet to make the "O". I mean, it makes a hole on the aluminum sheet.
The characters are supposed to be engraved at the same depth. I don't understand what is happening.
Here I attached the cb file and the text file with the gcode created from it. I hope you guys can take a look at it and tell me what is it that's creating my problem.
Thanks.

[escott76]

UPDATE... PROBLEMS...
Hi, guys
I've been playing around with a diamond tip engraving bit to do my text on a aluminum sheet. I've created a .cb file with the word "HOLA" (Hi, in English). The cut depth is set to 0.03 for the whole four characters, since it is a single line. I've created the Gcode from it and sent it to engrave.
Well... This is what happens: the first character is engraved not quite deep enough for me, which it's not the problem. The problem is that the bit goes to the other side of the sheet to make the "O". I mean, it makes a hole on the aluminum sheet.
The characters are supposed to be engraved at the same depth. I don't understand what is happening.
Here I attached the cb file and the text file with the gcode created from it. I hope you guys can take a look at it and tell me what is it that's creating my problem.
Thanks.

Uneven depth is far more likely to be a mechanical issue rather than a software issue. I skimmed your code and didn't see anything that jumped out at me as being off.
How is the sheet held to the base of the machine? Is the base of the machine parallel to the arm of the gantry? .030" in sounds like an awful deep engraving, I'd start with .010" possibly less.
Part of setting up a machine in it's new home involves aligning and squaring this machine. A dial indicator is used to make sure that the machine is as straight, square and true as possible. If your machine isn't flat to itself things like this are going to happen.
I work with sheet metal a lot at work. .030 bend across a small sheet is not at all uncommon, and it's really hard to hold down a sheet to keep it from bowing in the middle. In engraving keeping a constant depth is critical to have things look good.
For the kind of work you are doing, there are a couple of ways to combat these issues. First make sure the machine is square. You have to get a dial indicator and check each axis. Next, there are a couple ways to approach it as far as dealing with the sheet. A vacuum table is a great way to hold thin stock down for things like this. It makes sure the sheet is held down flat, and stops bowing in the middle. You can use things like double stick tape as well, but it can be difficult to remove the final part without damaging it. There is a film that you can buy which releases around 200 degrees. Put the film on a large flat backer plate, put your workpiece on it, and heat. Mount the large plate in the mill, do your work and reheat, and the work is released. McMaster has that stuff.
Another popular item is the spring loaded engraving tool which follows some variation in surface to create an even depth. This is a good option, and some will even let you engrave on a curved surface without having to program as if you were engraving on a curve. Never used one personally, but they seem popular.
Both the vac table and the spring loaded engraver tool aren't exactly cheap, but they are the "right" tools for the job.

[joshuadri]

HI, Scott
I thing I'm asking the machine to do something with no sense at all. I've been thinking at what you said and it's hard to me to think this machine is not built right. So I started reviewing im my mind what I'm doing and guess what: I am not asking the z axis to go 0.03 depth. I am asking it to go -0.03. At some point I've got confused with the axis and I came up with this negative value. It has to be me, Scott.

I am setting the bit on the aluminum sheet close enough to push a piece of paper in between the bit and the sheet. I zero the three axis to the disered position. Then I send the file to engrave. The z axis moves on the air like is doing something right. That's when I decided to use a negative value, like it was the Y axis (confused guy), to make the bit to go down on the sheet. So tell me: is there such thing like a negative value for the z axis? I'm doing something stupid. Isn't it?

Scott: it is so stupid you couldn't see it on the cb file. You don't have to be soft on me, boy. Tell me

[kweierbach]

I agree with Scott Your G code looks right.
I look at
1. if the stock is flat
2. is the z axis loosing steps
Kevin

[HackMax]

HI, Scott
I thing I'm asking the machine to do something with no sense at all. I've been thinking at what you said and it's hard to me to think this machine is not built right. So I started reviewing im my mind what I'm doing and guess what: I am not asking the z axis to go 0.03 depth. I am asking it to go -0.03. At some point I've got confused with the axis and I came up with this negative value. It has to be me, Scott.

I am setting the bit on the aluminum sheet close enough to push a piece of paper in between the bit and the sheet. I zero the three axis to the disered position. Then I send the file to engrave. The z axis moves on the air like is doing something right. That's when I decided to use a negative value, like it was the Y axis (confused guy), to make the bit to go down on the sheet. So tell me: is there such thing like a negative value for the z axis? I'm doing something stupid. Isn't it?

Scott: it is so stupid you couldn't see it on the cb file. You don't have to be soft on me, boy. Tell me

On my mill zero is at the top of the material to be cut. It goes into the negatives when cutting and positives when rapiding. I also stepped through your code in Mach3 and couldn't see any issues.

Rick

[escott76]

HI, Scott
I thing I'm asking the machine to do something with no sense at all. I've been thinking at what you said and it's hard to me to think this machine is not built right. So I started reviewing im my mind what I'm doing and guess what: I am not asking the z axis to go 0.03 depth. I am asking it to go -0.03. At some point I've got confused with the axis and I came up with this negative value. It has to be me, Scott.

I am setting the bit on the aluminum sheet close enough to push a piece of paper in between the bit and the sheet. I zero the three axis to the disered position. Then I send the file to engrave. The z axis moves on the air like is doing something right. That's when I decided to use a negative value, like it was the Y axis (confused guy), to make the bit to go down on the sheet. So tell me: is there such thing like a negative value for the z axis? I'm doing something stupid. Isn't it?

Scott: it is so stupid you couldn't see it on the cb file. You don't have to be soft on me, boy. Tell me

No, you didn't listen to what I said. You are making the most dangerous assumption possible, that someone else did something right. The only way you know that machine is square is if you CHECK it with an indicator. This has nothing to do with "built" right, it has to do with alignment.
When you move a $100,000 machining center into a factory, part of the setup is to check and adjust the mill to make sure it's square. Even though these machines are built to very tight tolerances you still have to check and adjust. When I swing the head on the bridgeport to the side to do work on the side of the table and back I adjust that each time, every time. Things move.
This is part of running a machine. There is no machine made that out of the box just runs and runs forever. Learn to check and maintain your machine.
As to your code, no matter what you said, your code was still telling the bit to cut at a consistent depth. And a negative value for any axis is fine, it's just negative with respect to zero. If the depth is consistent in the code but the part is cutting at different depths there are 3 things that could possibly be going wrong.
1. machine is not square, and gantry isn't parallel to the table
2. your stock isn't flat to the table
3. your motors are losing steps.
I'm betting on 1 or 2.
Here's a way to check what's really going on, and it won't require an indicator. Put a piece of paper down on the machine, and make sure it's FLAT on the table. Use some tape to stretch the corners down. Now put a marker on the head, you could even use a pencil. Bring the Z down until it just touches the paper. Do this in the corner where you noticed you were cutting though the aluminum. Make sure it only just touches enough to leave a tiny mark, don't mash it in. Now jog your axis towards the place where you started your engraving. If the mark on the paper stops happening, or gets thinner, you know that something isn't aligned, and it's number 1 on the list.
For a more precise measurement, go to each corner of the table and bring the bit down until it traps a piece of paper, like you did before. Make a note of the Z DRO reading, but DO NOT zero it. Jog to the other corner and do the same. Compare the readings. They should be very close to the same. If they are the same, you can eliminate number 1 and look at number two. Mount the aluminum sheet in the machine and run the test again. If the sheet isn't flat on the table the numbers will be different. If both of these check out, then I would look at number 3, which is a much trickier thing to solve. Good luck.

[fretsman]

joshuadri, I may have missed it but what type of drag engraving setup are you using?

Possibly pictures of your setup and the whole machine would give everyone here a better idea of what you have.

Dave

[Treble Left]

To break it down simply

You need...

Software (cad) to draw you're designs. (Corelle, autocad etc)

Then you need to convert these designs into toolpaths for youre CnC (Cam Software).
Then finally you will need software to control you're router(mach3)

There are a vast array of programs to chose from and each has its merits and downfalls depending on you're particular needs.

Artcam is excellent for creating text etc but has a hefty pricetag.
There are many cheap or even free software that may well suit you.
Search on google with Cad or Cam and download some trials to give you a taste. Most have help files to get you started.
Have fun...

[joshuadri]

Hi, Scott

Good news :banana:

I checked like you have said, using paper and pen, like I did before when I was practicing, and the trace left by the ink was similar at every point of the test. I also run the Gcode three times and observed how the z axis moved up and down with no sudden move like it happened on the "O" before. I did a little study on the code itself, trying to figure out how you guys understand it and I noticed the values related to z were consistent every time went up and down. Good practice. I think I've learned a little thing right there.

I went back to the sheet of aluminum I was using and I found out why this accident happend. At one moment, I was trying to adjust the depth cut and I made a mystake, so the bit went thru the sheet leaving a hole in it. I never thought of that hole as a factor to create uneven on the engraving surface, so the next time I placed the sheet to try a different depth value I had the bit going thru the sheet again. I believe now it was because the uneven created by the hole on the sheet.

Well... I went back to the experiment. I placed a good peace of sheet on the bed surface, making sure it is flat even (pressing down with my fingers, though). Previously, I went back to that "stupidity" of making the depth cut value a negative one (-0.012), I created the Gcode, I opened it in Mach3, sent it to engrave with a simple prey ( Just " whatever") and VOILA! The thing printed the characters evenly. I don't give you guys the picture because the printing is not what I need to do, but I will post the pics. No doubt about it.

Thanks for your help guys and I'll be back