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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    104

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    All that is what I used as well. It works great for me.
    I would ditch the gears though.
    They will give you some spindle torque, but thats really only useful if you intend to hog off material.
    The spindle itself would then be the limiting factor. I would likely just buy the head casting and spindle parts, less the gears and bearings. I would install new bearings from somewhere else.
    I think mine came from Mcmaster Carr or VXB. Much better performance than the OEMs.

    Go with a belt drive and after market motor as well.
    I was able to get 6600 RPM. That speed works nice on aluminum.
    I still get lots of torque at slower speeds with a single belt.
    I use coolant. My slowest speed that I use is about 2500, but do use 2000 with a 1.25" facemill for some things.
    Lee

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    56
    Quote Originally Posted by LeeWay View Post
    All that is what I used as well. It works great for me.
    I would ditch the gears though.
    They will give you some spindle torque, but thats really only useful if you intend to hog off material.
    The spindle itself would then be the limiting factor. I would likely just buy the head casting and spindle parts, less the gears and bearings. I would install new bearings from somewhere else.
    I think mine came from Mcmaster Carr or VXB. Much better performance than the OEMs.

    Go with a belt drive and after market motor as well.
    I was able to get 6600 RPM. That speed works nice on aluminum.
    I still get lots of torque at slower speeds with a single belt.
    I use coolant. My slowest speed that I use is about 2500, but do use 2000 with a 1.25" facemill for some things.
    Sounds great, any pictures of your spindle , or a build log link?

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    2712
    Once synchronous belts are "run-in" and re-tensioned they stretch very little. The new carbon fiber reinforced belts are very good. We have used these belts on (6) axis, servo powered, gear hobbers to produce class 10 and better spur and helical gears.

    Gears have more backlash than belts, which in theory, have no backlash.

    $.02 Dick Z

    add: Our hobbers have air cylinder counterbalance built in on the vertical axis.
    DZASTR

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    56
    yes but im speaking of the spindle , so backlash is a non isue (not treading or reversing direction much)

    thanks

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    6618
    Quote Originally Posted by hedgehog23 View Post
    Sounds great, any pictures of your spindle , or a build log link?

    Here is the build log for my mill.
    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32609

    I need to update it a bit with more pics.
    I now have a Nema 34 motor direct drive for my Z axis and I installed a different way cover on the X axis.
    Lee

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1114
    If you buy an X2 head from LMS, consider my Belt Drive Kit.

    $99.99 with free shipping any where in the US
    4500 RPM, very quiet, and strong




    I use it on my own mill and have yet to find an issue with it.

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9-5gDzhzcs"]YouTube - X2 Belt Drive[/ame]

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    56
    thanks for the offer starleper1 ill keep you in mind when i start work on the head

    whats every ones thoughts on these couplers from kelinginc?

    Brand New Flexible Aluminum Shaft
    Coupling OD: 0.75" Hole Size: 1/4 ",
    Length: 1" $16.95


  9. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    56
    few updated shots of the z axis.







    and a action shot of me cutting the base for the left hand z axis base (master rail)


  10. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    56
    for the sharp eyes out there , yes i do need to buy a bunch more machine screws!

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1072
    The ones with really sharp eyes are wondering if you always take your trousers off in the shop.

    Nice looking build, hedgehog23.

    I have used spiral-slot couplers and they work well for steppers. I prefer SST ones because they are stiffer.

    Randy

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1114
    I've only ever used two couplers. Love joy, which IMO are junk for CNC. And solid ones that I made my self.

    Before anyone blows a gasket and starts ranting about how my motor shafts will snap off. Calm down, I've been going quite awhile now with solid ones and no problems what so ever. If you have alignment issues then go with a the style you've shown. Kind of pricy for what it is though.

    Just my 2cents

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    56
    forgot to mention that i won a t slot table off of ebay (our very own widgitmaster)for my project
    its not exactly what i was after , but the price was right. its alittle short , but i might extend it slightly on both ends.




  14. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    56
    im not a fan of solid coupling anything really. in my workplace i preform many alignments and have yet to see one perfect without shim. anyone got an ebay link to a nice (cheap) spring flex coupling

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1072
    I have three aluminum double-flexure 1/4" bore couplings (I think they're Heli-Cal DSAC075-8-8 but am not sure since I stripped them out of surplus stuff) but they're only rated for 12 lb-in (192 oz-in) momentary torque, which wouldn't be enough for the motors you mentioned earlier in the thread. PM me if you're interested.

    P.S. I'll enthusiastically recommend the TTS system you were thinking about earlier in the thread. I've had a Tormach mill for almost 3 years now, and the TTS is fantastic. I could not live without it at this point. Tool changes are quick and having predefined tool lengths mean only touching off the first tool in a project.

    Randy

  16. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    56
    table arrived today. looks ok , i will be extending each side by 1" , so total travel should be around 15". plenty for what i have in mind. currently watching ebay for two more sets of linear ways (x , z) and one more ground ball screw for the z.

    here are a few pictures of the table. last one shows the ball screw that will be used for the table.




  17. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    56
    also decided not to use the g540, instead i will build up a controller using gecko 201/203v drives

    i ordered this break out board from cnc4pc.com the C1G


  18. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    1114
    Nice, you sure like your dykem.

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    56
    i do infact, and i dont have any remover. it will all get a good cleaning, primer and painting so it will look pretty for you.

  20. #40
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    56
    can anyone recommend a panel mount connector for my control box? need a few for limits/home switches and 3 or 4 for the steppers.

    im a fan of ebay if possible.

    thanks

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