[hoss2006]

Yep they are sending me a new one with the option to return for refund if I am not satisfied (great people at CNC4PC.

Funny how I was lucky to hold 0.5mm before the co version (dummy behind the wheels) and now I am frustrated to no have 0.01 or better.

Yes they are good folks at cnc4c, I've done a lot of business with them over the years and always satisfied.
Though may be adjustable the body should not have a wobble like yours, may have been dropped or something in transit.
Hoss

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Yes they are good folks at cnc4c, I've done a lot of business with them over the years and always satisfied.
Though may be adjustable the body should not have a wobble like yours, may have been dropped or something in transit.
Hoss

Nope - I've had two of them, and the bodies wobbled on both. It does not affect the functionality in the slightest. The shank is simply threaded, and screwed into the body - no real effort made to make it perfectly concentric or square.

WildHorse is a one-man "hobby" operation - he makes every one of those things himself, so they're not perfect, like a Renishaw.

Regards,
Ray L.

[hoss2006]

Yep they are sending me a new one with the option to return for refund if I am not satisfied (great people at CNC4PC.

Funny how I was lucky to hold 0.5mm before the co version (dummy behind the wheels) and now I am frustrated to no have 0.01 or better.

I'd tell them to keep it, glad I never spent my money on one let alone 2.
Get the Tormach Passive Probe, looks like better quality and folks seem to like it.
Passive Probe
Or you can go old school and use these to find your edges.
Edge and Center Finder, Fisher - LittleMachineShop.com
Edge Finder, Electronic - LittleMachineShop.com
Hoss

[zerodegreec]

Care to share how that is done? Nothing in the instructions or any obvious way from looking at it. It is just a Delrin type arbor with three brass posts resting on the 6 balls. The tip just screws into it. A spring on the back to keep pressure on the posts. Maybe the PCB could be adjusted, but this one is just pressed into place and possibly glued to the bottom.

[hoss2006]

Care to share how that is done? Nothing in the instructions or any obvious way from looking at it. It is just a Delrin type arbor with three brass posts resting on the 6 balls. The tip just screws into it. A spring on the back to keep pressure on the posts. Maybe the PCB could be adjusted, but this one is just pressed into place and possibly glued to the bottom.

You can read here if yours is the same.
http://www.wildhorse-innovations.com...-Alignment.pdf
I'll stick with my good ole edge finder.
Hoss

[zerodegreec]

Yep, thats the one. Thanks Hoss. Will take a good look at the new one and give it a fair shake before I judge it. This is the type of document that either needs to be included in the box with the probe, or at least a piece of paper with a link to the file.

On a similar note, I am using a Z-plate that is active Low. This type of probe is a NC type contact and is an Active High. Wonder would it be possible to code the auto corner edge finder script to watch for a change of state of the "OEMLED" rather than its current configuration. I would have to ditch the part of code that looks for a grounded plate (already have it quasi disabled by changing the value to 1 for it to work with the probe). Any ideas anyone? that way I could use the same input for my touch plate and this probe type without having to wire another input. This is not much of an issue since I will be going with a second BOB soon to run my spindle after I add the 4th axis

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Yep, thats the one. Thanks Hoss. Will take a good look at the new one and give it a fair shake before I judge it. This is the type of document that either needs to be included in the box with the probe, or at least a piece of paper with a link to the file.

On a similar note, I am using a Z-plate that is active Low. This type of probe is a NC type contact and is an Active High. Wonder would it be possible to code the auto corner edge finder script to watch for a change of state of the "OEMLED" rather than its current configuration. I would have to ditch the part of code that looks for a grounded plate (already have it quasi disabled by changing the value to 1 for it to work with the probe). Any ideas anyone? that way I could use the same input for my touch plate and this probe type without having to wire another input. This is not much of an issue since I will be going with a second BOB soon to run my spindle after I add the 4th axis

That would be easy enough to do, but you'd lose the protection of sensing whether the probe is active at the outset. That means, if the probe is not connected or otherwise not operating properly, the macro will be quite happy to go ahead and attempt the operation, which is likely to result in a broken probe, as it drives the tip right into the part or vise. Much safer to just go into Ports&Pins, and flip the PROBE input pin polarity. Or, add a little logic to invert one of the probes, and AND them so the PROBE input goes active when one probe goes HIGH or the other goes LOW. That could be done with a single transistor.

Regards,
Ray L.

[amyers]

Thanks, I'll add your name and let you know.
Hoss

fabulous, i'll keep an eye out or if you could pm me when you are ready would be great, thanks for all you do.

[gd.marsh]

Go to page 131 of the MachStdMill user manual found here: http://www.calypsoventures.com/msm_d...r%20Manual.pdf There's a schematic for building a little circuit to use both a NO touch plate & NC probe on the single probe input into Mach3 ..

I'm not an electronics guy by any stretch of the imagination, but I do a little tinkering here & there and was able to build this circuit myself with parts that came from local electronic retail stores near me.

Works great because both probe & touch plate stay plugged in all the time and either is available for use when needed. And at least on the MSM probing screen all you have to do it move the probe tip a bit by hand and you get a light to confirm it's active, avoiding the possibility of destroying it as described by Ray.

gdmarsh

[Kibo]

You could measure the backlash to some degree with a fixture of some kind. Assembly will involve a break down or 2 of the machine most likely. Especially if it is your first build. You will have time to measure backlash on the actual machine, order balls and repack while doing other tasks like wiring, plumbing, enclosure , tool changer, PDB. You get the point.

Thanks, that makes sense. Yup, first build--hence the reason things that may be obvious when I finally get to that point are just mental conjecture until then. In the meantime, just need to finish a couple more parts to Hoss' plans before it's time to break down the mill, roll up my sleeves, and see what I don't know.

Not to steal space in Hoss' thread, but this discussion of the Econo-probe is very timely, as I've been looking at purchasing one. Now I'm seriously thinking of pursuing Plan B: converting one or both of a pair of Renishaw probe heads I picked up on eBay for $0.99 plus shipping. :idea:

[Connor]

Yes sir, did that and a few more mods and made a decent little lathe out of the old 7x10.
Strictly manual though I doubt I'll cnc it.
Hoss

5C Collet Lathe.wmv - YouTube

More vids on the 5C lathe here.
hossmachine - YouTube 5C

Hoss,

Where did you get the 5C casting? How hard was this mod?

[hoss2006]

It's a regular 7x10 lathe head bored out on either end to fit the bearings for the 5C spindle.
The spindle needs threads cut on the end for a pair of jam nuts.
Hoss

[Connor]

It's a regular 7x10 lathe head bored out on either end to fit the bearings for the 5C spindle.
The spindle needs threads cut on the end for a pair of jam nuts.
Hoss

Where did you get the spindle from?

[hoss2006]

One of these collet fixtures.
5c Precision Spin Index Fixture Collet for Milling New | eBay
Hoss

[diyengineer]

Amazing Job Hoss!!

OK, the 5th axis is done, mechanically.
This nema 34 at 1.6:1 and bipolar parallel gives the best results.
It's moving 77% faster than the 570 n23.
Backlash is down to .012 degree, about .001 as the tool would see.
The tool would move at about 190 IPM.
Hogged some ally with the locks off and it runs very solid.
Have a belt cover to draw up and machine out of plastic then to learn the software.
Technically need to get the 4th axis rotary running again to make a part with 5 axis'
but in due time.
Hoss

G0704 5th Axis Final Setup and Hogging. - YouTube

[hoss2006]

Thanks! a bit of an old one but thanks.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

Been busy this past several days as you can see here.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/1232119-post1029.html
Now I can get back to the powder cup funnel and new super capacity version.
Hoss

[Whizbang]

Been busy this past several days as you can see here.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/1232119-post1029.html
Now I can get back to the powder cup funnel and new super capacity version.
Hoss

Those are great machines. I have printed and built one for a friend, he seems to really like it. I may print myself one once i get rid of a few Mendelmaxs. what do you plan on doing for the build platform? aluminum? fixed or spring bed?

[hoss2006]

Aluminum spring bed with tempered glass on top, works great on my prusa.
Hoss

[hoss2006]

Those are great machines. I have printed and built one for a friend, he seems to really like it. I may print myself one once i get rid of a few Mendelmaxs. what do you plan on doing for the build platform? aluminum? fixed or spring bed?

I have to design my own now since the original was for an 8x8 bed and mine will be 14x14.
Hoss