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  1. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    305
    The flow indicator is mounted and most mechanical is done so I'm starting the wiring. I have some 18/4 braid/foil shielded cable so I'm doubling up the wires for the servo motor power. I plan to leave the shield unconnected at the motor ends and ground them in the panel. If anyone thinks there will be a problem with the dual wires or grounding, please let me know.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00462.jpg   DSC00463.jpg   DSC00464.jpg  

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    305

    Timing Pulleys

    For the timing pulleys I did a little unconventional mounting on some. After reaming to 1/2" the one on the y-axis motor had too small of a hub to do a keyway and setscrew so I narrowed up a split shaft collar and split the tiny hub. Since the X-axis ballscrews will need to be clocked relative to each other, I sort of made the hub into its own split collar. I like these methods compared to keying because they will never get loose over time from reversing direction. Even better is to mill a flat on the shaft and use a straight clamp on the flat. Setscrews alone are a big no-no in my book, even if you use drill points to seat them in.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00468.jpg   DSC00466.jpg   DSC00469.jpg  

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    305

    Electrical

    I did some rearranging on the right side electrical panel and it's coming along. It's not ideal because I started with an existing one and didn't want to move the power supply or servo drives. A single 24" X 24" panel would have been better. The first picture shows the new layout. From left to right are main fuses, DC Servo power supply primary fuse (hidden), main contactor that switches the servo power supply and VFD, Servo Drive fuses, Servo PS, and Main disconnect switch. Rutex servo drives are at the bottom left.

    The second picture shows a plate that will be mounted with Ethernet Servo Stepper, Charge Pump, and 24VDC & 5VDC breakout boards. One port goes straight to the servo motherboard, another goes to the C10 with a little ribbon cable, and the 3rd port goes to the C31 through a ribbon cable behind the plate.

    The enclosure is only 12" X 18". It's pretty packed. Sorry for the bad pictures, I need a new camera.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00484.jpg   DSC00485.jpg  

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    305
    Those pictures are terrible- here's a better one along with the machine tilted back so I don't have to lay on my back to wire it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00490.jpg   DSC00489.jpg  

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    0
    Hi Kevin,
    This is very nice machine. The work is very precise, I can't imagine how you can build such a thing in home environment.

    Peter

  6. #46
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    305
    Thanks Peter, I wish I had more pictures to post, but haven't had time to work on it lately. I did get an electrical enclosure and small Dell to replace the rack-mount PC that was in the way. It still needs to be painted. More progress soon I hope.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC00477.jpg  

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    305

    Re: My new router with DIY ISO30 ATC

    Oh man, I just realized that I posted my lathe build here but never finished the router thread. This one was also finished and has been in use for a few years with no problems to speak of. I ended up ditching all of the controls and using a Centroid Acorn. It's very accurate, cuts Aluminum regularly, and can rapid faster than I want to go. There's no ATC yet, but maybe someday. If anyone is interested in any construction details, let me know.
    Kevin

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