Think someone could convert this to a dxf for me. Thanx
Think someone could convert this to a dxf for me. Thanx
does anybody have a San Antonio Spurs logo or even a spur?
Does anyone have a San Antonio Spurs logo or a spur?
Bob
"Bad decisions make good stories."
If just finished my homemade cnc
check it out:
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uQ_G82SjGM"]YouTube - My third homemade CNC[/nomedia]
But how can you cut out the dxf puzzles without breaking the bit, or making ugly cuts? When my cnc is finished with cutting a puzzle part, the part shoots away and sometimes breaks the router bit.
I modify the dxf drawings, by creating small bridges so the part stays in place. It works, but it takes me a lot of time to modify the drawings. Is there an easier way?
What type of cutter are you using? I would try a straight flute or a down cut end mill, this helps stop the throwing. When programming your parts look at where your last cut ends. Make sure that it is not forcing the loose material into a corner, that will ether throw the part or break the end mill. Hope this helps.
Larry
P.S. Nice looking machine you built.![]()
Here are a couple of places I have bought from, and an idea of what I use on wood. I'm cutting 1/2 " - 5 ply plywood with an 1/8" bit, two passes because of the length of cut on the bits. Here is a sample of what I make, it's about 60" wide, cut as two pieces.
Larry
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I looked at your video and cool!
you have done the easy part and now you'll have to work on the hard part of learning the science of cutting. you didn't say what your using for software for cad and cam?? when you program you will need to start thinking about how you approach your cutting. one thing you might think about is doing an Onion skin. that is were you leave a very thin amount of material for the last past. the cutting can cut it very easy and thus there is very little force on your pieces. also as said above... ALL cuts should start and end away from the corners so you avoid hooking the piece and throwing it around and maybe back into the cutter and breaking it. you need to also start to understand cutters. there are so many different type that all look to solve some part of machining, but there is no magic cutter that works for everything. it looks like you have a dermal type motor so you are stuck with 1/8" shafts?? if so you are somewhat limited in your selections of bits. if you go to the Onsrude router bit sight, they have a great area that talks about bits and working on chip load. if you understand this, your bits will cut better and last longer. once you understand this you can go were ever you want to buy your cutters cheap.
as for software, take a look at Vcarve Pro. they have trial software you can down load and play with before you buy. it is great software and they cover just about anything you might want to do. remember it wont take too many broken bits to pay for a fair price software package. free isn't always cheapest.
Erik
U.S.A.
I am using Autocad 2008 and Artcam 2008.
I use a Proxxon MICROMOT 50/E. But i also have a bigger motor. But i have not made a mounting bracket for it yet. The bigger motor fits 8mm shafts only. I cant find bits smaller then 3mm for the bigger motor, thats why i use the Proxxon for cutting puzzles.
I will take a look at the Onsrude website. Thanks for your help.
Michiel
Michiel
I buy bits down to .4mm for my machine. They come with a 3mm shank. I actually use a large router mounted on my machine, it seems to last longer then the small Roto-Zip type motors. I only change brushes about every three or four months. 25000 rpm seems to work well on most of the cutters. I use an Erickson collet holder in my 1/2" router.
Larry
Cow/calf silhouette.
plasma/router
Free DXF - vectorink.com
I was wondering if anyone had the Detroit Red Wings and Ottawa Senators logos. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Pete
Free DXF - vectorink.com
Thank you all they are great. Let you know who it turns out soon as I have it done.
Steve