[KustomKoncepts]

Where is every one getting tooling?

Vortextool.com?

What are the basic ones I will need?

[ger21]

maybe better resolution i am learning and testing

Here's a tip for you so you don't have to take pictures of your monitor.

When you want a screenshot, hit the "Print Screen" key on your keyboard (somewhere to the right of F12). Open Paint (Start>Programs>Accessories>Paint) In Paint, either Control-V or Edit>Paste. You should now have your screenshot in Paint. You'll need to resize it to be able to post it here, so first go to Image>Attributes to see the size of the image (your monitors resolution), then go to Image>Stretch/Skew and stretch by about 75%. You want the width to be 800 or less, stretch accordingly. After the first time, you'll know how much to stretch by. Last, save as a jpg file.

[ger21]

Where is every one getting tooling?

Vortextool.com?

What are the basic ones I will need?

Vortex tools are very good, but if I were you, I'd buy some cheaper ones to practice with. Tooling depends on what your cutting. Plastics require different bits than wood for best results, and even hard plastics use different tools than soft plastics. However, when starting out, just about any woodworking tooling should work ok for you. And when you do buy Vortex, make sure you buy enough to get the 30% discount. With 1/2" tools, you usually only need to buy 2 or 3 to get the discount. With 1/4" tools, it's about 7 or 8.

[Jimmy007]

Larry, I have just measured the width and length of our table.
The width of the vacuum table is 1545mm which appears to be the "usable" width.
The length of the vacuum table is 3000 mm which also appears to be the "usable" length.
I have taken the spindle area against the end of the gantry into consideration.

Rocket.

Rocket,

When you have a chance could you please zero the X Y axis at the machine home position and and then see what the keypad readings are when you reach the maximum physical X Y locations.

Be careful, the only limit switches are at the home position- if you hold your finger on the axis control button the machine can and will try and go past the ends of its rails.

Cheers,

Jimmy

[rocket67]

Rocket,

When you have a chance could you please zero the X Y axis at the machine home position and and then see what the keypad readings are when you reach the maximum physical X Y locations.

Be careful, the only limit switches are at the home position- if you hold your finger on the axis control button the machine can and will try and go past the ends of its rails.

Cheers,

Jimmy

No worries. Charlie has still got about 2 hours work to do on it. so we will do it straight after that.

Rocket.

[cabnet636]

just to let you know hillary is still in striking distance in new hampshire, it's going to be a long year in us politiks.

in other words

HOWS YOUR ROUTERMATE
JIM

[cabnet636]

i bought a few 1/4 inch straight flute and a couple of 90 and 60 degree v bits
a 1/8 and 1/4 inch ball nose bits.
right away i stuck the 60 in a hole and watched it try to cut its way out and burned the s%$t out of it. what do you have for local tool stores, home depot, lowes use a few cheap frueds for your learning curve i am sure you can get bits over night vortex onsrud etc, learning curve includes burning bits. at least on my part.

ger thanks for tip i am going to practice, also how can i print a specific post?

jim

[ger21]

ger thanks for tip i am going to practice, also how can i print a specific post?

jim

Click on the post number and use File>print. Or selct the text, copy and paste into Notepad and print from there.

[cabnet636]

i looked a dibond as i did not know what it was only to find i have used it.

yes the routers will well cut and machine this panel product but i would get at least a 4x8 US lin foot machine as you will be cutting material panel of this size.

glad your here, help us help you

jim mcgrew
cabnet
www.mcgrewwoodwork.com

thanks ger just did it copy/paste

[Jimmy007]

i bought a few 1/4 inch straight flute and a couple of 90 and 60 degree v bits
a 1/8 and 1/4 inch ball nose bits.
right away i stuck the 60 in a hole and watched it try to cut its way out and burned the s% out of it. what do you have for local tool stores, home depot, lowes use a few cheap frueds for your learning curve i am sure you can get bits over night vortex onsrud etc, learning curve includes burning bits. at least on my part.

ger thanks for tip i am going to practice, also how can i print a specific post?

jim

1/4" Solid carbide bits are below 5USD from our friends in the East.

My local tool sharpener suggested the quality appeared good- my crude testing revealed that I got more sheets of MDF routed with the cheapie than the 1/4 bit I bought from him for $32AUD.

You do have to but 100 of em but I am looking at going in with Rocket once we work out which bits we need most and having a supply on hand.

Perhaps others in AUS may like to think about some sort of group buy in. Local postage makes this a value proposition.

[cabnet636]

i see the 1224 is a 4x8 us

jim

WHERES THE PHOTOS FELLOWS MAY BE EVEN CARVIN WILL SHOW US HIS

[Jimmy007]

i see the 1224 is a 4x8 us

jim

WHERES THE PHOTOS FELLOWS MAY BE EVEN CARVIN WILL SHOW US HIS

Jim,

Photo's of what?

[Big S]

Perhaps others in AUS may like to think about some sort of group buy in. Local postage makes this a value proposition.

Count me in on a group buy, shipping to NZ can't add THAT much

Shannon,

[rocket67]

Slow progress fellas. Office is flat out, and one of our installers has just crashed his van.
Charlie has not yet finished. It is knock off time so he will come back tomorrow.
I have taken more photos with gantry cover removed. It has been a crazy day. We are headed home for dinner and will post photos tonight.

[rocket67]

Kent, here are the photos with the gantry cover removed. Note the swarf in the bottom of the cover. This is from when the holes for the cover were drilled and tapped.
In the middle bottom photo i tried to get a picture of the gears. The stuff that is hanging down is the protective cling wrap.
Hope these pictures help.

rocket.

[rocket67]

Jimmy, Charlie has finished wiring up the machine, the vacuum pump and the dust extractor.
Could you please have a look at these photos and let me know if the wiring looks ok? I did not take any manuals to work to show him so he was flying blind.
He is coming back in the morning to do more work on our fuse box before we can start the router.
We fired up the vacuum pump and the dust extractor, they both work just fine.

Rocket.

[Kent_Norway]

Kent, here are the photos with the gantry cover removed. Note the swarf in the bottom of the cover. This is from when the holes for the cover were drilled and tapped.
In the middle bottom photo i tried to get a picture of the gears. The stuff that is hanging down is the protective cling wrap.
Hope these pictures help.

rocket.

Thank's a bunch Rocket. That did explain most of my ideas on how this was working. But I guess that there must be a "gearbox"/reduction gears before the cogwheels start working in the axis direction to be able to keep the accuracy in place? Those cogwheel "gripping slides" looked pretty rough in it's spacing ....

It would be interesting to hear if someone has measured the machines accuracy to check if the numbers are in the correct ball-field as stated. For the main interesting part is to do small intricate designs for cut out and pocketing. I guess the method performed here could be used by those who have a machine : http://www.cnc-router-routers.com/ht...nauigkeit.html

K

[Kent_Norway]

Here is a collection of 4th axis solutions which could be tried. I'm investigating the pin out for connectivity for the stepper solutions. Is there anyone who know how the steppers on you're machines are configured? 2 phase, 3 phase and connected in bipolar parallel connection? Nanotec has great description how to configure their steppers, so if I get the steppers name I could most likely figure out how they are connected and if a 4th axis would be able to be used (by swapping one of the initial axis to the 4th axis).

Note the D1 version which is just 83mm high, hence could fit under a machine with a Z working range of 100mm

http://www.iselautomation.de/product...lang=en&ID=c45

K

[rocket67]

Kent, Optical illusion. Those gripping slides are precision ground hiwin rails and the spacings are just fine.

[Jimmy007]

Jimmy, Charlie has finished wiring up the machine, the vacuum pump and the dust extractor.
Could you please have a look at these photos and let me know if the wiring looks ok? I did not take any manuals to work to show him so he was flying blind.
He is coming back in the morning to do more work on our fuse box before we can start the router.
We fired up the vacuum pump and the dust extractor, they both work just fine.

Rocket.

Looks pretty good to me Rocket....

You must be rolling in it- notice you splurged on the 3 phase sockets and plugs, I just hard wired into my switch housings.

Hard to see where the earth is connected at the machine, did he take it to the main bond on the cabinet or the earth link? Main earth connection was a bit dodgy on my machine, you might ask that he check- I scraped a bit of paint off and made sure everything was nice and tight.

For those having great interest in the DSP system the image showing the green connection headers on the side of the board is the DSP system. Yep, that little board (coupled with the hand controller) is the extent of it.

Works a treat.

I'll be out and about tomooorw Rocket but mobile will be on.

Couple of other tips- VAC is harder to maintain than pressure- check there is plenty of PTFE tape on the threads where the filter housing meets the VAC pump. Id also suggest to find someone who can fit to crawl around under the table and make sure all VAC hose clamps are nice and tight and in the right spots.

Remember spindle warm up proceedure- 2 mins @ 100, 200 and 300hz (6, 12 & 18000 rpm.