[underthetire]

The fuji switches are tougher to find than the eao? switches, i have part numbers at work. They are basically identical. You want momentary or push on push off?
I remember a spoon looking tool to pry the little door open on one , maybe on the top? Been 20 years or more now..

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk

[maxspongebob]

I just posted a mister nozzle that I made to GrabCad. You can get it here. https://grabcad.com/library/mist-coolant-nozzle-1

[m1n1m]

I just have 2 things to say. 1. You are doing a fabulous job and I am sure that your efforts will be rewarded. 2. Be very careful using a cheap mist system with denatured alcohol in an un-ventilated room with a space heater.

Thank you When you lay it out this way I feel stupid for even considering this option. I will do as underthetire suggested and run olive oil. I still have mixed feelings about running flood coolant. I want the surface finish but I'm not sure if I want to have this kind-of "toxic" fluid filling the air in my tiny shop with fumes that I breath in. I soon have to decide tho.. Flood coolant won't cost me more than the coolant and if I want misting I'm going with a fogbuster nozzle atleast on the unit I have built.

The fuji switches are tougher to find than the eao? switches, i have part numbers at work. They are basically identical. You want momentary or push on push off?
I remember a spoon looking tool to pry the little door open on one , maybe on the top? Been 20 years or more now..

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk

I'll search some more. Temp solution is a car switch I had lying around hooked up inside the cabinet. I'm not switching off DNC often anyways so it's not a big deal.

I just posted a mister nozzle that I made to GrabCad. You can get it here. https://grabcad.com/library/mist-coolant-nozzle-1

Cool. I'll see if I can manage to make something similar. The rest of the mister is basically done. I need to replace the valve on the fluid line as it's leaking but other than that it did provide me with a mist at 0.5bar pressure.




I was tired of that door interlock ruining things so I pulled the switch apart and removed some of the latches in the key system. Now there is only one left that I can unlock with a 3mm flat screwdriver and turn on/off. The door switches is a good thing I guess but there is no stop mechanism on the doors so I had to gently align the doors until I head two clicks from the switches and if I touched the doors while it was milling it could stop giving me an error. I mill with the doors closed but now the switch is turned off.


Then I had to arrange and measure my tools. First thing up was cleaning them with some CRC and scotchbrite pads and they now look like new. Also replaced a 10 and a 12mm mill with new ones as they where pretty worn. I mocked up something quick to mount my BT30 holder onto. It's not final but I had to have it for fixing my endmills. Will make one in alulminium when I get the chance


Then off to tool zeroing. I got the chinese tool presetter in the mail the other day and it actually repeats very good. The way I zero my tools it doesn't matter if it's 50 or 51mm so the only thing that is important is how it repeats. I zero the presetter to the edge of the presetter with a round bar over the top of the presetter. This way of zeroing it let me zero the haimer to the edge of the presetter. The way I zero is moving the spindle head down without a tool in it and input this as G54 zero to have a reference for the other tools. I then had to run a short program calling G54 again so it zeroed out the display. Now I started loading tools in and measuring each tool and the Z readout was then the offset from spindle without tool in. At the end I measured the haimer against the edge of the tool holder (same as zero on the dial) so I know the full distance of the haimer. Now everytime I zero Z with the haimer I just read off machine zero and add haimer offset to the G54-55-56-57 Z zero offset. I'm open to better ways of doing it but this was what my simple mind could figure out as a working solution. I made a short spreadsheet that I can use for inputing machine Z and getting out a calced Z height including haimer offset. The sheet is for measuring bores with the haimer and zeroing on a hole also so I just add stuff there as I need it. When I upgrade my unit I will try to figure out how to do this with macro b.


shiny alu bars Looking forward to making some chips of these!


Here is a short video showing milling with a tool change. Only sprayed some random multi lube onto the alu so no proper coolant hence the smoke
https://youtu.be/HJzbeMqkmMw

And today a friend came over and wanted me to help him extend a hole from 12mm to 17mm. I made a short program with helical interpolation down a hole with 10k rpm, 2600mm/min, 325m/min surface speed and 0.125mm chip per tooth. The speed can be seen down in the video. The only problem was that the hole that was supposed to be 17mm came out as 16.5mm. I thought this was because I enabled 3axis movement and helical interpolation on a machine that didn't have these parameters enabled from factory but a wise man told me I was rocking at the machines phyiscal limits. Once I slowed down feed to 600mm/min on a finish pass (WAY to low chip load tho) the whole measured the correct diameter. I guess I have to learn more about these machine limits as I go.. Tested some pockets and various moves and the tolerances are good as far as I can tell now. I'm really in love with the machine after getting drip feed enabled as now I can work quick and easy with programs without that stupid low limit..

https://youtu.be/OIndCsLRcLA

I'm in contact with a guy on this forum that has upgraded his Mate control to a O-MC control and he's packing and shipping a OM-C control to me today. Hopefully within a few weeks I'll rip out my old mate 16bit and get in a 32bit OM-C. I think this 16bit is what's giving me a headache with enabling more memory as a 16bit CPU only can address as high as it can count (65k) when it comes to memory. a 32bit cpu won't give me this problem so I can run it fully loaded with memory (for saving macros and stuff). This is only my theory of my limited knowledge of cpu's but it did make sense when I figured out I had a 16bit cpu. The new control will hopefully make me able to DNC at 19200 with better surface speed.

[m1n1m]

I need a new face mill of some sort. Not going to spend crazy amounts if I don't need to. Is there any recommended flycutter or facemill that is light on the machine? I'm running it off a 16A circuit (should be 32A) so I can't put full 3.6kW load on the spindle without risking to trip the fuse. Tripping the fuse will for sure ruin the endmill/facemill since Z drops a couple of mm at power down.

[generaldisarray]

I need a new face mill of some sort. Not going to spend crazy amounts if I don't need to. Is there any recommended flycutter or facemill that is light on the machine? I'm running it off a 16A circuit (should be 32A) so I can't put full 3.6kW load on the spindle without risking to trip the fuse. Tripping the fuse will for sure ruin the endmill/facemill since Z drops a couple of mm at power down.

I am partial to the Sandvik 245, I think it is a fantastic facemill for all around use. It is not inexpensive though.
I have tried many other brands and configurations, none work as well as that one.
Your power consumption would be in relation to
1 number of teeth engaged
2 depth of cut
3 cutter diameter
4 material
5 cutter geometry
6 cut direction
(not in any order)

So if you want to use a tool that leaves a good finish and has good life for a given material. You can reduce/change the other parameters

a 2.5 inch diameter is a good size for 30 taper

[m1n1m]

Sandvik 245 looks awesome but it was pricey Will def consider it! Now the new Fanuc OM-C controller prolly will arrive tomorrow so yesterday I made a scallop post of 500kB (25000 lines) that was supposed to machine in 1min 20sec. This is way more than the OMate control are capable of doing over DNC and most likely more than OM-C can do also. The purpose was to time the operation and observe the moves and to quantify the improvement. The Mate used 16 minutes to complete this job and it was stuttering as it moved due to beeing over the machines limit. It completed but if I milled in alu it wouldn't look great when it makes so many stuttering moves. Time will tell if the OM-C can improve this time and maybe even make it go kinda smooth. It's just a test anyways.. I won't be doing 3d surface work at 2500mm/min normally with it. Today I will pull the latest backups and remove the OMate control from my system making it ready to drop in OM-C when it arrives. I also tested rigid tapping. It works but the Fusion 360 post processor is throwing in a S500 M3 after the tool change. On rigid tapping it specifies in the manual that speed should only be commanded in M29 so I will have to figure out a way to rewrite post so it sets speed to zero. Since the S code is modal I assume it won't help that I just remove the S500 manually since speed is often commanded earlier on a job. Going to google it a bit later on.

[generaldisarray]

I dont think this will help on the mate, but it looks to me as you might make use of it on your OMC. Fanuc HSM G08/G05.1 settings will your old eproms go right into the new control?

[m1n1m]

I've seen this but I'm not sure I can make post to work with it and programming it manually will be a PITA. It has to be activated/deactiveted often through the code from what I've read.

I'm reusing the ladder but PMC is new. Getting help from a nice guy in here that flashed the PMC and servo eproms with proper software before shipping off the unit to me.

[m1n1m]

Short update after yesterday’s retrofit. The OM-C went straight in, I had some servo whine but letting the 8X04 value sort it self according to motor type made it go away. Dnc speed increased from 16minutes to 11minutes on my stresstest so it’s a lot faster. Prolly hitting the lookahead buffer limit. I also made myself a quick macro b toolchange macro to confirm that this is now working. 128kb/320m memory also Now activates as it should. Will be back with some pictures and more explaining later.

[m1n1m]

The BT30 holder now machined on the new OM-C controller. It works a lot better than I thought from the synthetic scallop test. I don't have coolant yet so when I did the pocket without clearing chips with compressed air I got chip welding.. I managed to stop the machine before it went south, cleared off and started blowing away chips manually. Some pictures and a movie here. All this is milled with 5 tool changes and in one gkode file generated in fusion 360. Will try to post some info on the upgrade later this week for those interested in doing a upgrade like this.

I'm going to order some coolant now on mondays but I'm green here.. I've heard a lot of good things about Blaser lube and I wanted to go with Blaser Balsocut 2000 at first then a friend of mine ordered Blaser B-cool 755. On paper this looks much better and has no chlorine. Can I go wrong with any of these? Do I also need some cleaner for the machine and a Jetmixer? The jetmixer from blazer costed about as much as 50liter of coolant so if I can do without I would prefer that..




https://youtu.be/jMe5I39Ug7k

[m1n1m]

Time for a update again. Still didn't have time to do a post on the OM-C upgrade.. Been using all my time off work on other things like the following pics and posts will tell :P

As a follow up to the BT holder I was making I managed to screw up the orientation when fixing the piece to the vice so the chamfer was a bit on the heavy side I ended up facemilling the bottom off flat so the piece wasn't wasted and I have learned how I should not do things


And then I decided to go for flood coolant. Since I have postponed the roof building many times I kinda had to get going now since there would be no space to build on later if I had a big coolant tank fitted at the rear of the machine. I raised it a bit up from 2.4meters and isolated it with some 5 and 10 centimeter insulation. After all was fitted I had my little helper join me painting it white. Still not done with the organisation of it but it's getting there



And it's easter in the workshop

[kladany]

Hi!
I have a question again.
Is it possible in Fanuc to change the spindle of the X axis?
With a 12 mm increase, I do not get a reasonable price axis in Hungary, but with a 10 mm increase.
I hope you understand my question.
Thank you very much

[m1n1m]

Hi!
I have a question again.
Is it possible in Fanuc to change the spindle of the X axis?
With a 12 mm increase, I do not get a reasonable price axis in Hungary, but with a 10 mm increase.
I hope you understand my question.
Thank you very much

25x10? Everything is possible i guess but its going to require changing the servo parametere and do servo tuning. I would say that if you don’t have experience with controls like this enough to know how to approach it I would rather import the proper ballscrew. If you can read up on the subject and save a lot of money on doing it then it might be worth it but keep in mind that it’s a lot easier to replace it with a similar part.

[kladany]

Yes, I know that.
I can not solve the tuning of the servo myself.
1 set 12 mm spindle and nut = 700 Euro
1 set 10 mm spindle and nut = 120 Euro

[m1n1m]

And more coolant preparation pics. The old tray was nasty stuff! I cleaned out as much as I could with chemical gloves by hand, cleaned it with rags and then soaked the thing in industrial cleaner before high pressure washing. This old coolant/oil mix was pretty hard to get off.. Wish I had a steamer!


I found this nice thing behind a lot of dirt. It was completely covered in dirt so I didn't even realize what it was. Thought it was a cool thing to get back into shape so I spent some extra time cleaning it out.


There was a leak from where the coolant ran off the machine and into the tray so I took it off, straightened the metal out so it had a better mounting surface and added some Tec7 sealent. No clue if it will hold up to the coolant but it was one of the more heavy sealants I had lying around ^^


And like everything else on this machine there is a lot of small details that has not been looked after in the past. One of the bolts was snapped off on the motor coupling house on the coolant pump. There was a clear air gap between the motor and the housing so moisture will come in that way for sure if exposed. The bolt came out fairly easy so I replaced it with a new one and put sealer on the house. I also insulated the taped connections properly so it wouldn't cause a short/earth problem in the future.


And the filters are cleaned out. This little tray is not stock but it's a very nice addtion. A picture in the next post will show why

This is the coolant lines running coolant along the sides of the machine to wash chips into the conveyor screw. The valves had been shut so there was 5-6year old coolant accumulated inside. Imagine the consistence of that mix now.. It required a strong alkaline cleaner to get that stuff out. By the way I didn't go mental with this cleaning thing for no reason. I watched a Haas Automation video on youtube saying that a machine that had bacterial problems with the old coolant could come back to it's old state in 7 days if not cleaned properly so I figured better safe than sorry. One of the videos on their series can be found here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NvyNUn2sp3Q


The old coolant hoses looked like something that was picked up from a boat store. They where hard as plastic and I figured that it would just leak. Replaced the hoses with proper hoses that should handle coolant and more nasty stuff. I also added a T and a ball valve to a new wash down hose. Some kind of filter system will be added eventually but I want to see how the coolant works before I invest more in it.

[m1n1m]

The washdown hose mentioned in last post is just made from a regular garden sprayer. I'm looking for one in aluminum that can withstand coolant but I'm sure this $5 will last a while anyways. Really cheap and handy addition to the machine to be able to wash down the chips to the conveyor after use. When I was washing the tank I aslo emptied the tank into 25 liters buckets for disposal with this gun and the pump in the machine. Just had to rise the tray on one and so the coolant was higher over at the pump side and it was no problem to almost completely empty it with the internal pump.



To clean out the machine I followed the Haas video in previous post. First I used water + alkaline cleaner and washed down the whole inside of the machine. I let this mix run for 2-3hours to clean out old hoses/lines. Then I emptied that mix and filled the tray with 2% mix of Blaser bcool 755 coolant and ran the machine for 2-3 hours washing down everything one more time. Emptied that out again and filled up with 8% mix of Blaser Bcool 755. The pain in this process was that the tray is so big that I had to fill it with atleast 50-60liters to be able to run the pump properly so I now have over 100liters I need to dispose. Someone told me that I can cook that stuff outside to extract all the water so it's easier cheaper to dispose I might do something like that. For now I just run to my neighbor to get some big cans to store it in


Then the next problem was figuring out how the coolant was supposed to work from the machine control. The pump started running immediately after powerup the machine. This was a bit annoying so I had a look in the ladder program again. The Y49.3 output on the first line here is the coolant valve for the splash coolant and the Y048.1 is the main coolant pump. A short version is that they have used diagnostic 484 to setup how the pump/valve works. Like it was setup the pump was always on and the valve was triggered with a M08 command. I changed one bit (484.0) and then the pump and valve is both triggered by the M08 command only running when they are told to. If my valve was working it would make sense to have it like it was setup but I need to fix that before I can use it.


When I added air to the control valve I discovered that it was blowing air into the coolant. After disassembly I see that there are at least two o-rings that are damaged so I either have to find a new valve or a new gasket set for this one. The O-ring I had stocked but the seal below the "piston" is probably special SMC part so I didn't find this anywhere on short notice. Will ask SMC for a gasket kit.

[m1n1m]

The addition of Blaser coolant was so nice. The machine is so nice and clean and chips is so easy to remove. Just had to add these two boring pics since I'm on a picture frenzy here anyways. Btw sorry if I'm spamming here but they would only let me add 10 pics pr post so I had to split it to include some more. My english is crappy so pictures says so much more


I designed a tic tac toe game last night just to have something real to do testmilling on. The finnish with coolant is just WAY nicer than before when I ran dry. I'm still not dialed in on the feeds and speeds so I guess it can only improve from here. Wasting a ton of material since I don't have a band saw yet and I'm to lazy to manually cut big chunks of alu but it's a great way of doing test facing or test milling before I cut out what I'm actually making. The chip tray below shows how much chips there was from that board only. Really nice tho having it all back in that tray instead of having to vacuum down the whole machine inside ^^

[m1n1m]

How much oil is acceptable in the coolant tray? Most of mine goes into a separate chamber so it’s easy to pick up with a oil cloth but some seems to end up floating on top of coolant like I’ve read about around the web. I purchased a skimpy oil skimmer but I haven’t installed it yet since I lack a oil/coolant separator to extract all the coolant it pulls. If anyone has a tip on how to make a DIY separator similar to the one skimpy sells please let me know as it will take weeks to get one sent over from the US..

[m1n1m]

Having a blast milling with the machine lately. This is a mold for a customer and I hope I can get a few more jobs so I can finance a renishaw probe solution. Is there any good aftermarket probes I should look for? I want one that can go in the tool changer and one for probing tool offsets. I think probing offsets would be the first thing then later get one to replace the haimer. Will have to aim for second hand since new is out of my budget.

[m1n1m]

Are you takling about the spindle bearing/clamping/holder of the motor? If it’s the motor you can get a new from Fanuc or from eBay but keep in mind that there are 3 different motors for this machine depending on option when it was bought. I believe it’s 6-8-12k final speed. There are also differences in encoder setup and more details between the motors so keep that in mind when searching for it.