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Thread: SLATS

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    268

    SLATS

    Hi All
    Well this is it, table being delivered to my house today or tommorow, i get home in 3 days, i know it doesnt come with slats so i either have to have them cut for me, or cut my own which i would like to do. Would appreciate any info or tips on doing this, seen where some guys bow the slats with a extra angle iron down the center of the table, i might go that way also, most DT vids i've seen have straight edge slats, is there any advantage to making the edge wave or jagged like PC's slats, or would that type of slat cause more tip ups?

    Regards
    EDD

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    264
    Easiest way would be to buy some flat bar. The bow in the slats really helps to extend the slat life. We use standard flat bar.

    Mike

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    62
    I had a thinner plate sheared into strips before I picked it up.
    And then I cut a crude, yet simple support system for the middle of the table that allows you to put a curve into the thinner slats.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    268
    Thanx, was talking to a friend after posting who also suggested flat bar, didnt even dawn on me, but thats the way im going, plus the center peice to bow them and see how it works, may try different styles later on when they need to be replaced.

    EDD

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    13
    anybody using the saw tooth style slats????........any advantages or disadvantages to them??

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1260
    Quote Originally Posted by KjZitur View Post
    anybody using the saw tooth style slats????........any advantages or disadvantages to them??
    Although I'm not using them right now I am going to try them when my flat ones need replaced.

    Advantages I see: less area contacting bottom of sheet being cut = less area to cause blow back to the tip or cut process welding to slats. Slats may possibly even last longer

    Disadvantages I see: Possibility of smaller size parts to partially drop through your grid. This could leave corners sticking up for your tip to catch on rapid moves. Smaller parts would have more of an opportunity to drop through the table & have to be fished out of the water. If not a water table & they fall through burn dross will collect on them in the tray.

    I don't think there is a perfect solution. Just what works best for your particular needs.

    My main gripe with straight slats is the amount of dross that can collect on top of them that needs to be removed so next sheet will lie flat on the table.
    If it works.....Don't fix it!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    40
    Thought I'd share my experiences with supporting the material.

    I went and built a bunch of 16 " square grids for my water table. Top has a saw tooth profile made up of a series of 3" wide slats tack welded on 1-1/2" centers.
    Same idea as those cardboard things in wine cases to keep the bottles from rubbing together. Almost never have to go fishing for parts now, if I do I can just lift up one of the grids.

    Downside:1 Should have gone wider than 3" as I got some warping when cutting the slats, 2 took many hours to cut all those damn slats to make up the grids, tack weld them etc..., 3 although parts can't fall through anymore they will tilt up ever so slightly just enough for the tip protector to run into.

    Can take some pictures if anyones interested.

    I have used slats of 4" X 3/16" flat bar in the past with good results also.

    Tyler

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    343
    I'd like to see pics of the grid system!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    40
    A few picture for you guys. Grids similar to what you might see on a some laser tables, I guess they don't like fishing for fallen parts either. As you can see the grids are easy removable and most parts such as these 4" square ones will be still sitting on top when your program ends. Table is a little odd looking I know, ( used to be a Torchmate ).

    By the way, any body have any suggestions on how to get rid of a runaway out of control algae problem
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My cutting table.jpg   4 inch parts.jpg  

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    54
    i know theres something you can put in the water to get rid of the algae..
    someone will chime in and let you know what the brand name is I cant seem to remember..
    If noone chimes in i'd look through the forums and you find the name..

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    153
    Please tell me there's dye in that water! Is the algae really that bad?

    Plasma Quench from Koal Industries is the stuff I've seen mentioned for controlling rust, odor and algae. A cheap alternative for algae control might be Bromine, a biocide used for pools and spas, similar to chlorine without the smell. If you want/need the corrosion control as well, there are lots of chemicals available for treating boiler water and/or cooling water. Plasma Quench would be the best solution, but I can not find a source for it other then the manufacturer, and they have not responded to my RFQ.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    54
    Quote Originally Posted by Med-Pac View Post
    Easiest way would be to buy some flat bar. The bow in the slats really helps to extend the slat life. We use standard flat bar.

    Mike
    if im not mistaken flat bar is more expensive than by buying a sheet and shearing it down..
    if you dont have a shear i dont know what it would cost to have it sheared

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    40
    Sorry guys, was B.S.'N about the algae. The green is from a half dozen jugs of antifreeze. Keeps things liquid to about -10 C. Controls corrosion to.

    Tyler

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