[SwampDonkey]

They're labled, But dont match what I have on my encoder. My encoder lists:


Lead Color Line Driver Output
Red DC 5+V
Black GND
Blue A+ Ch
Blue/Black A- Ch
Green B+ Ch
Green/Black B- Ch
Yellow Z+ Ch
Yellow/ Black Z- Ch
Brown U+ Ch
Brown/ Black U- Ch
Grey V+ Ch
Grey/Back V- Ch

White W+ ch
White/black W-ch


These dont seem to coincide with the labeled pinouts on the BLDC leadshine drivers




Any advice? I really want to find a driver for these. Click pic to enlarge. Thanks in advance.
Attachment 292874

[engnerdan]

Well it appears your encoder is missing the "W" hall sensor, and you will need to figure out what side of the hall sensor the drive wants to see. So if the drive wants the negative side, you should be connecting the U+,V+,W+ to the VCC pin.

VCC = Red DC 5+V
EGD = Black GND
EA+ = Blue A+ Ch
EA- = Blue/Black A- Ch
EB+ = Green B+ Ch
EB- = Green/Black B- Ch
EZ+ = Yellow Z+ Ch
EZ - = Yellow/ Black Z- Ch

Brown U+ Ch
Brown/ Black U- Ch
Grey V+ Ch
Grey/Back V- Ch

Encoder
EA+ = Encoder A+
EA- = Encoder A-
EB+ = Encoder B+
EB- = Encoder B-
EZ+ = Encoder Z+
EZ- = Encoder Z -
VCC = +5
EGD = 0VDC (guessing on this one, Encoder GrounD)

Hall Sensors
HU = Hall Channel "U"
HV = Hall Channel "V"
HW = Hall Channel "W"

[SwampDonkey]

Right you are! They were buried in the Tamagawa formatted pinout legend. Are there any drives you would recommend? Ive never dealt with AC/BLDC servos before. And thank you for your help on this.

Well it appears your encoder is missing the "W" hall sensor, and you will need to figure out what side of the hall sensor the drive wants to see. So if the drive wants the negative side, you should be connecting the U+,V+,W+ to the VCC pin.

VCC = Red DC 5+V
EGD = Black GND
EA+ = Blue A+ Ch
EA- = Blue/Black A- Ch
EB+ = Green B+ Ch
EB- = Green/Black B- Ch
EZ+ = Yellow Z+ Ch
EZ - = Yellow/ Black Z- Ch

Brown U+ Ch
Brown/ Black U- Ch
Grey V+ Ch
Grey/Back V- Ch

Encoder
EA+ = Encoder A+
EA- = Encoder A-
EB+ = Encoder B+
EB- = Encoder B-
EZ+ = Encoder Z+
EZ- = Encoder Z -
VCC = +5
EGD = 0VDC (guessing on this one, Encoder Ground)

Hall Sensors
HU = Hall Channel "U"
HV = Hall Channel "V"
HW = Hall Channel "W"

[engnerdan]

You have not given any info about the motor you have.

[SwampDonkey]

You have not given any info about the motor you have.

Its a Tamagawa TS4747 200W AC servo. I believe it also operates as a BLDC since it has "DC48 V" on the label.


Attachment 293018

[jfong]

Right you are! They were buried in the Tamagawa formatted pinout legend. Are there any drives you would recommend? Ive never dealt with AC/BLDC servos before. And thank you for your help on this.

I use applied motion SV7-S-RE drives. 7amps continuous, up to 80volts. Can run both AC or DC brushless with either sine or trapezoidal commutation. They are expensive but I've seen them go on eBay for around $100. Easy windows software config and tuning.

Uses encoder with hall inputs. Analog / Step and direction interface. It would be no problem for this drive to run your motor.

They will also run old style brushed motors too.

[engnerdan]

Well that is confusing, my expeience says You get AC or DC but not both.

AC servos I have used are "induction motors" meaning they have a steel laminate rotor and the alternating current in the field windings induces a magnetic field in the rotor which the the magnetic field from the field windings counter acts to cause rotation.

BLDC motors (or brushless DC servos) have a permanent magnet rotor and field windings (along with hall sensors). The magnetic field created by the field windings counter acts the permanent magnetic field of the rotor. The drive for these motors needs to know where the north and south poles of the rotor magnet is in order to send the correct polarity to each field winding.

From a couple minutes of looking around the internet I would assume the motor you have is a BLDC motor. I found some reference stating they thought the motor was identical to Applied Motion Products #V0200-214-B-000.

For a compatible drive I would guess one of the Leadshine drives would work, or a Applied Motion Products drive. But you will have to risk it and just try one in order to find out. If I personally had the motors in hand and wanted to use them I would use a Dynomotion KFLOP + SnapAMP, but this is not the simplest setup it will take some research, programming in C and patience. The reason for the Dynotion products is 1. They work and work well, 2. the SnapAMP will most likely be cheaper than several individual drives, 3. I would not have to use the abomination that is Mach3.

-Dan