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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    43

    SL 25 B with low oil pressure

    First off, thanks to all in the past for the help I have received. INVALUABLE! Now after I recently replaced the 3.2a F13 fuse in the rear cabinet on the power module(still dont know why it went) I now have low pressure on the showa oiler. When I depress the manual button to try and generate pressure, no matter how long I hit it, I get minimal pressure, but no pressure spike like it used to. I was getting what I thought was excessive oiling earlier, but I would rather have more oiling than less for safety sake. Suggestions?(group)(group)(group)(group)(group)(gr oup)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    2517
    low oil pressure alarms are pretty common on older machines.
    assuming the oil unit is working that alarm is usually caused by faulty oil unit or blockages in the oiler filters that are at the ends of the oiler copper pipes or at the oiler manifolds where the copper pipes meet and split or a broken oiler copper pipe (i.e. an oil leak somewhere). they are usually not easy to find. start at the pump checking that it works and is outputting oil and go from there.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    6028
    Step by step..
    Remove line from tank to machine. Plug with pipe fitting (1/8npt works here)
    Push manual button. Note pressure. Should bounce right up to the green (15 kilograms per square centimeter/220psi) .
    If this fails, you need to clean filter in the pickup of the waylube pump. If it still fails, you may have to take the entire pump apart and clean it and re- adjust the pressure relief valve on the pump body. If this still fails, you need a pump.

    Next, check for broken lines. One up the X axis track that feeds Z&X, and one down the cable track for the tailstock. Should be pretty obvious. You can plug the line at the end and manually run the pump. If you have a pressure drop at the pump, you found the line.

    Now, this is the MOST common failure point on old machines other than lines. It's the manifolds. The cast aluminum manifolds are what actually regulate how much oil goes tot he slides/screws. They have a plunger system inside. The system is supposed to pressurize those manifolds, closing off the flow via closing the plungers. Once pressure is released, the plungers spring back to open. So if the manifolds stick or leak, you start to get high waylube consumption since the high pressure pump is flowing right through them. Once a couple plungers fail, the pressure on the system drops, since the pump is low volume.

    Most people dont want to hear this, since the manifolds are expensive. You need to change all of them once they start failing. Probably 3 manifolds on X, Z,(all up high on the X axis slide) one on the tailstock, and usually a small one in the headstock, but not on all machines. Replace them all, even if you dont use the tailstock. They all must be functioning. Plan on 1K in parts.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    2517
    we've replaced dozens of them in many of our Mori's. The manifolds are real bast@rds

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    43

    Any other way?

    Has no one ever come up with a suitable replacement for these manifolds if they are expensive and a problem? Where is the best place to buy if I do need them? Can the manifolds not be cleaned or rebuilt?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    6028
    Yes, and yes. I have rebuilt them in a pinch. Not worth my time to the customer, as the larger one takes 2 hours plus parts. All world machinery is the cheapest I've found. They are not really a problem, no different than having to change a timing belt on your Toyota. Machines require maintenance just like cars, the only difference is the machine pays for itself while your Toyota just requires money. The main reason other than age that kills them is not cleaning out the Waylube tank and filter once a year.

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