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  1. #1
    ZipSnipe Guest

    Manual Mill project

    Someo of you might remember I built a manual milling machine several years ago using the x2 mini mill head with r8 taper.



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    Now the machine has served me well but has some issues

    (1) slop in the x and y axis

    (2) no drill press ability

    The slop in the x and y axis I have had for years and I am embarrased to say that I just discovered that the table had an adjustment for back lash, so the y axis I got most of the backlash out but the x axis is down to .010 from .025. So some anti back lash nuts might be in order. I haven't got to use the mill yet since I adjusted it so we will see on that one.

    Now this leaves us with drilling and this is where I could use some ideas. I currently have to crank the head up and down to drill and its a pain in the pita.

    I had one idea to add kinda of second axis to the z axis and basically mimic the x2 drilling abilty. But I realized that the position of the drill press handle was not possible. It would hit my mount for the motor controller and I am not moving the mount, I like it where it is.

    So then I thought I could convert the quill of an x3 into the head of the x2. But this brings the cost in around $350 not counting the labor involved.

    So either I can leave it the way it ism buy an x2 for drilling and be done with it. Or anybody else have an idea?

  2. #2
    wizard Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by ZipSnipe View Post
    Someo of you might remember I built a manual milling machine several years ago using the x2 mini mill head with r8

    Now the machine has served me well but has some issues

    (1) slop in the x and y axis

    (2) no drill press ability

    The slop in the x and y axis I have had for years and I am embarrased to say that I just discovered that the table had an adjustment for back lash, so the y axis I got most of the backlash out but the x axis is down to .010 from .025. So some anti back lash nuts might be in order. I haven't got to use the mill yet since I adjusted it so we will see on that one.

    Now this leaves us with drilling and this is where I could use some ideas. I currently have to crank the head up and down to drill and its a pain in the pita.

    I had one idea to add kinda of second axis to the z axis and basically mimic the x2 drilling abilty. But I realized that the position of the drill press handle was not possible. It would hit my mount for the motor controller and I am not moving the mount, I like it where it is.

    So then I thought I could convert the quill of an x3 into the head of the x2. But this brings the cost in around $350 not counting the labor involved.

    So either I can leave it the way it ism buy an x2 for drilling and be done with it. Or anybody else have an idea?
    CNC the mill!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    26
    I have the same table a Shars one got from craigslist. I'm getting parts together to basically copy that your mill. Still tossing around the idea of trying to make my own spindle. Have read many threads on that and it seems that most diy spindles are a failure. But I think the run out problem can be helped if the spindle bore can be done mounted in its bearings and headstock.
    On your mill what changes did you have in mind?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    1187
    Wizard, had a cnc and it sat for the longest time, I just don't do enough to warrant a cnc. Of course after I sold mine I got into airgun smithing and could have used it for some breeches that I am currently making.

    I will be honest with you Phansen, I wish I would have just bought an X2 mini mill or the x3. I spent $700 to make that mill.

    And now I will invest another $170 to add the drilling capability.

    So I decided that I will move my z axis handle straight forward instead of the angle that it is now and this will allow me to add another axis to the z and it will basically mimic the x2 mini mills way of drilling . the second axis will have a rack and pinion and gas spring.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    1187
    Ok after sleeping on it , I looked at the mill again and realized that I can't go straight out with the handle as it will block the drawbar. So I have to change the angle I think I am at about 35 to 40 degrees and make it around 15 degree. Here's a Sketchup pic



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  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    3920
    Quote Originally Posted by ZipSnipe View Post
    Wizard, had a cnc and it sat for the longest time, I just don't do enough to warrant a cnc. Of course after I sold mine I got into airgun smithing and could have used it for some breeches that I am currently making.
    Done right it wouldn't interfere that much with manual use. Once you get use to some simple CNC programming you can use the controls as power feed axis. The only difference is that they can be smart power feeds. Especially in your drilling case, you could easily use the Z to run peck drilling operations with little trouble.

    In your case I was actually thinking that you should just automate the Z axis for now. It would solve your immediate need while leaving you with your same old manual XY.
    I will be honest with you Phansen, I wish I would have just bought an X2 mini mill or the x3. I spent $700 to make that mill.
    That really isn't that bad. It is hard to tell from photographs but it actually looks like you have a better mill than the X2 and maybe even the X3.
    And now I will invest another $170 to add the drilling capability.
    Overall that is still pretty cheap. Further that $170 would get you close to the CNC hardware required to automate the axis.
    So I decided that I will move my z axis handle straight forward instead of the angle that it is now and this will allow me to add another axis to the z and it will basically mimic the x2 mini mills way of drilling . the second axis will have a rack and pinion and gas spring.
    Yeah that may sound good but another axis means more moving parts and the potential for even less rigidity. I'd probably have to think about that some. It guess it depends upon how much drilling you expect to do.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    1187
    Wizard you are a cnc fanatic !!! I used to be all gun ho for it too but I realized my projects don't warrant all that. But I will say this my idea of a perfect shop would be the addition of a cnc router( heres a pic of a Sketchup I did)

    This mill that I am using now I would rather keep it manual. I need to do this drilling upgrade to it so when it comes time to build the router it will be that much easier. And if I never end up building the cnc router then my mill will live on as a better functioning mill drill.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails CNC Router2r.jpg  

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    26
    Zip have you considered using an x2 column mounted upside down. You would need the spindle housing mount ,fine and course feed, rack and pinion,etc. You might be able to mount the course feed on the left . With shorter handles the motor would also clear
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    1187
    Thanx Phansen,
    I did consider that. The problem is I will lose 4" of y axis as the head will stick out 4" further. I will instead hopefully win a precision slide of Ebay and will order a rack and pinion from McMaster Carr. The latter will be cheaper and 2" shorter. The slide I am looking at will be the ticket. I am probably going to go all out on revamping this mill.

    My new plan

    (1)Add the precision slide and gas spring for the z axis to add drilling capability. And longer 2x2 solid feet to regain my y axis( currently have 2x2 hollow steel for the mills feet)

    (2) replace the 18x6 inch milling table with a 24x6" milling table.Also add anti backlash nuts (this is if my old boss will let me use his to make the table, we are still on good terms plus I bring glass for the sand blasting machines and maybe replace some glass in the cnc centers)

    (3) if I add the bigger table then I have some gear motors I want to use to make a x axis powerfeed

    (4) add DRO to the x and y

    (5) New paint to make her purdy

    So right now waiting on tax return before I pull the trigger

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    1187
    Kool my old Boss said I could use the shop anytime so now I will have access to a Bridgeport and a 28" surface grinder. I also decided that for the table I will use a slab of ductile iron at about $150 delivered. I will also keep my eyes open for a milling table close to the size I need and maybe be lucky and just have to trim down the dovetail to get it to work on my mill. The only bad news is my tax refund won't be in until the 28th of this month just a small delay.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    1187
    Ok made it to the surplus yard. Was just a lil disappointed as almost most of the stuff I wanted was buried deep under tons of steel that the poor yard guy was gonna have to wrestle to get it out for me just to cut off like 6 inches. I didn't have the heart to make him dig it out.

    But I did grab enough 5/8 steel to rebuild the mill head. I also grabbed the chunk of delrin and brass rod to make anti backlash nuts. ($24 + $8 gas)

    I also just ordered the r8 spindle,nut and spacer from LMS. ($81)

    I am going to wait a week before ordering anything else (need to make sure business stays steady)

    But after our tax refund shows up I am ordering the chunk of iron from Speedy Metals and the steel tube I need to make the quill.($171)

    Aaahh the fun is about to begin !!!!!!!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    1187
    Ok Spindle arrived, bearings are being shipped(one radial and one angular), bandsaw blade for metal bandsaw on order.

    Hoping to return to surplus yard to pick some chunks of steel and brass.

    I will concentrate mainly on the quill for now.

    BUT I have an excellent idea for the table , I will use the G0704 table($232 shipped from Grizzly), originally I didn't think I could use it because the dovetails are larger on the G0704. But then it dawned on me why not just mill the x part of the saddle flat and bolt the 1 inch wider steel dovetail saddle on top. Easier than trying to mill and surface grind a 24 inch slab of iron.

    I also tried the Evanut idea I found on another website where you basically melt a piece of delrin around the acme screw. So I made the nut but was only able to get the backlash down to .005 which is better than the .015 I had before. When I do the longer table I will be using a new nut.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Ok parts are arriving but I am still missing the main piece of steel tube I need for the quill and can't do much with out it. Hoping to make it back over to the surplus place this week.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I also found an even better idea for the table from LMS Super X3L Long Table Kit - LittleMachineShop.com

    The X3 long table is only a quarter of an inch wider than the one I currently have and the same goes for the dovetails, sure I need to mill 1/8 off each tail but there's plenty of meat to do it with. So a much easier conversion than using the g0704, comes in with nut at $281 delivered. My only thought is it comes with a 5/8-12 screw and there are no after market anti-backlash nuts that size. But I heard the X3 nut was of a good design.

    But my main concern is the head and hopefully will get the rest of the metal I need this week.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Well been busy milling. This is the unfinished quill which started off 4inch diameter down to 3.2 inch diameter.Click image for larger version. 

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    And this is the drive shaft that needs quite a bit of boring out to do Click image for larger version. 

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    I need a carbide boring tool so either I am going to try and fab one or purchase one. The drive shaft is made of a36 steel and is pretty hard to mill, the hss boring bars aren't standing up to it.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Attachment 181891 Ok here is the drive shaft finished. Trying to get my lathe right for the spindle and bearings, more to come....

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Ok the quill, finished boring and will be milled for slots next. But for now I have started on the table. I needed a way to tap the 5/8-12 acme thread and started looking at the y axis lead screw and realized that about 2 inches of it doesn't get used so ground a taper on it and then ground 3 flutes in for a nice tap, worked great !!!!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Finishing up the nuts and then I need to cut the old nut off the saddle and then mill it flat for the new black acetal nut.

  17. #17
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    Feb 2006
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    Some goodies came from Grizzly today, here is the Accuremote DRO installed on the x axis Click image for larger version. 

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    And finished the x and y axis nuts



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    Tested out the DRO and it works perfect, will install y axis DRO and install display support arm tomorrow

    More to come....

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Some goodies came from Grizzly today, here is the Accuremote DRO installed on the x axis Click image for larger version. 

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    And finished the x and y axis nuts



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    Tested out the DRO and it works perfect, will install y axis DRO and install display support arm tomorrow

    More to come....

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    334
    ZipSnipe,

    Looks like you are almost finished with your Cross Slide Mod's....Nice work!!

    Do you have someone in your area that provides a service comparable to: Totten Tubes Inc

    I bought the tubing for my spindles and Quill from them, and the rectangular stuff for several other projects,
    they are also doing small lot and secondary cutting for me,........ take a look at their web site.

    w. Smith, Mission Viejo, CA

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    1187
    No there is no one around here that could do that except for my old company I used to work for and they are too busy for my lil project. I am pretty comfortable with the cold rolled quill. It is next on my list to finish, I will be milling slots in it tomorrow for the rack, guides and travel limit. But I am pretty much done with the table mods, the acetal nuts are working sweet. The Accuremote DRO works great, and so far after 2 days is money worth spending. The only problem I see is with the weak wiring , so I wanna figure out some armor for the wires !!!

    Click image for larger version. 

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