[David Da Costa]

David I feel really bad you have had so much trouble with the Z-Axis, wish i knew about the Xylotex board better, I think you ordered the HobbyCNC Board, maybe you can try that later on with the 425oz motors, and run them
unipolar at 305 oz.

Joe

Well it's all part of the learning experience

I need to find a power supply for the HobbyCNC setup, I checked ebay quickly yesterday, but did not find one.

[gtschance]

All,

Back a bit more than a week ago when I was having fits with stalling, one of the things I did was to shift to a single Acme nut with two set screws. I drilled the acme nuts on my mill and tapped them (using the tap in the mill chuck but turning by hand). One of the things I had noted was some sort of vibration coupling between the motor to lovejoy to leadscrew. With the double nuts and the length of the 425's shaft, with the motor tightly seated to the mount, there was a fair about of compresson expressed on the spider. I had only by chance found that with my motor not fully tightened down, I got better results.

I am running now where there is a visible air gap between the spider and one side or other lovejoy.

David, it appears as though the extra space you got by adding the washers took axial load off the screw and or motor.

I am convinced that my steps as above did the equivalent and that was one of the gains in performance I got a week or so ago.

George

[David Da Costa]

Hello David,

I was just checking the motor specs and the Xylotex manual and wanted to check with you and see if this is how you have the motor wired to the Xylotex board.

blue/white and red/white to ZA
Blue and Red to ZA#

green/white and black/white to ZB
Black and Green to ZB#

This set up would require your Vref setting at test point TPZ to be 3.6 volts.

What Voltage did you set the Vrefs to?

Rick

I'll double check tomorrow, but I wired them exactly as per Xylotex instructions. Currently I have the 269 back on the z axis and these are 4 wire.

Vref is currently set to 3.32 how did you calc 3.6? What should it be for the 269oz/in?

[gtschance]

David,

Note we posted about the same time. Did not want to have you miss my post immediately above.

George

[David Da Costa]

All,

Back a bit more than a week ago when I was having fits with stalling, one of the things I did was to shift to a single Acme nut with two set screws. I drilled the acme nuts on my mill and tapped them (using the tap in the mill chuck but turning by hand). One of the things I had noted was some sort of vibration coupling between the motor to lovejoy to leadscrew. With the double nuts and the length of the 425's shaft, with the motor tightly seated to the mount, there was a fair about of compresson expressed on the spider. I had only by chance found that with my motor not fully tightened down, I got better results.

I am running now where there is a visible air gap between the spider and one side or other lovejoy.

David, it appears as though the extra space you got by adding the washers took axial load off the screw and or motor.

I am convinced that my steps as above did the equivalent and that was one of the gains in performance I got a week or so ago.

George

I don't think it did as I already had a gap between the spider and the side of the love joy. Certainly on the 425's there was axial load as the shaft is longer and does not allow for a gap.

The rubber gromets are definately damping down the resonance and improving motor performance. I need to go to Home Depot tomorrow and find some more grommets as the ones I am using are all different as that is all I had hanging around.

I was runing lengthy 1" 100 ipm up and down movements and was able to "tune" the motors through adjusting pressure on each mounting screw.

More testing tomorrow as I add back the parts of the z axis

[David Da Costa]

It appears it is very easy to upset the balance of the system depending on the tightness of the mount, backlash and pre-load. This sensitivity appears to be a function of the Xylotex drive. It will be interesting to see the behaviour with the HobbyCNC board (assuming I can build it okay ).

[joecnc2006]

Well it's all part of the learning experience

I need to find a power supply for the HobbyCNC setup, I checked ebay quickly yesterday, but did not find one.

I used three computer psu's wired together for 4 months with the HobbyCNC board. So the two you have will work for testing it out.

You should not have any problem building the board, it has good instructions and the soldering will be easy. i have built two of them already.

Joe

[xscsime]

Dave,

If you set the 425 up for bipolar parallel the current/phase is 2.8 Amps. According to the Xylotex manual the highest the board will support is 2.5 amps which equals a Vref of 3.6 volts. This is under the Power section on page 2.

I don't have the spec infor for the 269s, so I can't say. However, If you have your board wired for bipolar series, the Vref you have now is set too high. This might be some of your problem, because it causes overheating and overheating of the system can cause you to loose steps. Vref setting for the 425s wired bipolar series should be around 1.9 to 2 volts.

Rick

[ccsparky]

David,

I brought my Xylotex kit and a stepper motor home to get it set up with Mach3. Posted what I did on my site.

I'll be taking it in to the shop tomorrow to get it all hooked up to the machine. Will let you know how it went and if I can provide any info, will do so.

Sorry your still have so much trouble!!!!

[David Da Costa]

thanks ccsparky, I actually felt I made a bit of progress today.

[trubleshtr]

Another thread same issue, he is getting 60 ipm after tightening his
acme assembly up....

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...t=23664&page=3

[calgrdnr]

Hello David,

First off I would like to thank all the Joes2006 builders for all the great ideas and tips. I am sorry you are having problems . But as you said this is a learning experience. Maybe your misfortune will save countless hours for someone else later. Well the reason I am in your thread is because of entry #58 and #59.
I am hoping next weekend will be warm enough for me to paint. I want to use RustO you know which paint "hammered look" I already have computer with two tone silver/blue, looks good so I would like use it again. My dilemma , is I can not find a definitive answer on what primer/sealer to use. So if you or BP092 good enlighten me I would be most happy

Thanks again to all you good folks Kent

[David Da Costa]

I used three computer psu's wired together for 4 months with the HobbyCNC board. So the two you have will work for testing it out.

You should not have any problem building the board, it has good instructions and the soldering will be easy. i have built two of them already.

Joe

Thanks Joe.

I did see theat guy on ebay has a 36v 8.6a psu but I think that will not be enough amps. I have already ordered from him a 24 16 amp for the Xylotex.

[David Da Costa]

Hello David,

First off I would like to thank all the Joes2006 builders for all the great ideas and tips. I am sorry you are having problems . But as you said this is a learning experience. Maybe your misfortune will save countless hours for someone else later. Well the reason I am in your thread is because of entry #58 and #59.
I am hoping next weekend will be warm enough for me to paint. I want to use RustO you know which paint "hammered look" I already have computer with two tone silver/blue, looks good so I would like use it again. My dilemma , is I can not find a definitive answer on what primer/sealer to use. So if you or BP092 good enlighten me I would be most happy

Thanks again to all you good folks Kent

I just used the Rust0 sandable white prime on mine which sealed the MDF fine after 2-3 coats.

[Fixittt]

someone needs to post how to put CAPS (materials list and a how to) on the XYLOTEX PSU is what I meant

[bp092]

Hello David,

First off I would like to thank all the Joes2006 builders for all the great ideas and tips. I am sorry you are having problems . But as you said this is a learning experience. Maybe your misfortune will save countless hours for someone else later. Well the reason I am in your thread is because of entry #58 and #59.
I am hoping next weekend will be warm enough for me to paint. I want to use RustO you know which paint "hammered look" I already have computer with two tone silver/blue, looks good so I would like use it again. My dilemma , is I can not find a definitive answer on what primer/sealer to use. So if you or BP092 good enlighten me I would be most happy

Thanks again to all you good folks Kent

The sandable primer that was mentioned is probably your best bet for canned paint. That product was used by a wide range of joe 2006's builders and I love the stuff. It protects the wood but you can scuff it down perfect for a final finish. I believe it is about $3 and change a can at HD. Top coat is your choice, I would say go with a flat or semi gloss. If you go with a high gloss your nicks and bangs will show up significantly. But then again it is a machine isn't it (nuts) . I went with david and did rustoleum white semi gloss (painters touch) it's a blue can with a white top. (Home depot around here is a disaster for finding stuff. Primers are mixed with top coats, polyurethane with random paint. crazy.. Also you mentioned the cold. We in connecticut have had quite a cold front lately, a mild winter up until now. I wouldn't personally do any painting of any product in anything less than 50 degrees. And 50 is pushing it. I just spray in 50ish and let it dry, all the overspray gone and let it cure inside. But I'm afraid of even leaving the stuff to sit outside for even a half hour in this weather. Have fun

[bp092]

someone needs to post how to put CAPS (materials list and a how to) on the XYLOTEX PUS

I'm planning on doing that, haven't seen any for joe's build besides minor tips. Might be beneficial for others. From what I hear though xylotex's documentation and usergroups are more than enough. But for the visual learners like me

[calgrdnr]

Thanks for the quick replys on Paint question, I went ahead and bought a compressor and HVLP sprayer (I have a metal equipment rack and roll away that could use freshpaint) So I have been looking for the sandable primer, but haven't found any thing like that in the big box stores , I'll try find a paint store and see if they have it. thanks again Kent

[David Da Costa]

someone needs to post how to put CAPS (materials list and a how to) on the XYLOTEX PSU is what I meant

That would be interesting if it is possible.

David

[bp092]

Almost any home depot and most hardware stores will sell it. If you don't see it at home depot I Wouldn't be suprised but ask for it. Rustoleum is a brand I believe every home depot carries (Ie: ryobi)