[RickPflimlin]

Thanks, I have watched just about every video there is on the subject. I'm sure I can do it. Getting the right sized balls (and the right number) is my main concern. How are they measured?

[LeeWay]

A micrometer is the best way, but when measuring old ones, do it a few times around the ball turning the ball slightly each time.
They can get football shaped.

[RickPflimlin]

I'm getting .0925 - .093 I'll probably need to convert that to mm?

[tmarks11]

Probably would not be noticable 1 " high but my business doesn't call for 1" serial numbers. As covered in earlier post Vectric VCarve Pro 6.5 and V8 from different computers. Three years without any problems.

I was asking because if it was noticeable in larger letters than it wouldn't be a hardware problem, but a software problem. But since you are generating posts from different software versions, I guess you have already ruled that out.

[RickPflimlin]

Good point. I had ruled it out but from a different viewpoint. Thanks for the confirmation.

[TXFred]

Spring loaded diamond drag bit. The letters are 1/10 of an inch high.

I didn't know that you were drag engraving. I'll bet you a large amount of money that your engraver has worn to the point that it's got some sideways movement.

Put an indicator on the engraver and see how much side play it has.

Frederic

[LeeWay]

That is whay I suggested that he try it with a V bit or something. To rule that out. It would not have to be much deflection to get that kind of error on such a small engraving. The fact that some letters appear straighter may very well indicate a worn spot in the barrel of thee drag bit.

[LeeWay]

I'm getting .0925 - .093 I'll probably need to convert that to mm?

You should be able to get precisely what you need in either MM or inches.

[RickPflimlin]

I didn't know that you were drag engraving. I'll bet you a large amount of money that your engraver has worn to the point that it's got some sideways movement.

Put an indicator on the engraver and see how much side play it has.

Frederic

Save your money. That was my first thought, but I have three engravers from two sources. My favorite one has a lot of hours the others not many at all. The results is exactly the same with all three.

[RickPflimlin]

You should be able to get precisely what you need in either MM or inches.

.093 is 2.38mm. I can find 2mm and 2.5mm balls but nothing in between? Could these be 2.5mm balls worn down? They seem too consistent for that???

[RickPflimlin]

That is why I suggested that he try it with a V bit or something. To rule that out. It would not have to be much deflection to get that kind of error on such a small engraving. The fact that some letters appear straighter may very well indicate a worn spot in the barrel of thee drag bit.

Before I tried my other two engravers I ordered three more. Two will be here today and I will double check with them but I'm sure I have eliminated that possibility. Spindle wear is another matter, how can I check that?

[TurboStep]

How are you holding your stock?
Step

[zephyr9900]

I'd suggest as another test, engraving an uppercase T and L. The T will be single, along-axis strokes and the L will be a single along-axes stroke but with a 90-degree turn during the movement. That should isolate axis movement vs. flex/runout/backlash. Is it possible that you have accidentally turned on Formula Axis Correction in Mach3? If you have ever used it in the past, the equation you used will still be present.

Randy

[RickPflimlin]

How are you holding your stock?
Step

Very tightly in a vise.

[RickPflimlin]

Is it possible that you have accidentally turned on Formula Axis Correction in Mach3? If you have ever used it in the past, the equation you used will still be present.

Randy

I have never used it and I wouldn't know how to turn it on or off. We all bump keys at the wrong time so anything is possible. How would I check?

I'll try the T & L test but it will probably be tomorrow. I'm way behind in getting some computer generated samples worked up for customers.

[RickPflimlin]

I should restate that I have found that I have .007 - .008 backlash in my X axis.

After the adjusting the gibs and the thrust bearings I'm thinking it has to be down to the ballscrew. Even with less than 3000 hours on it. I had to replace the Z ballscrew at about 2000 hours. That was a little more obvious with little chrome bits in my way oil.

Spindle slop is also a possibility but I can't feel any.

[RickPflimlin]

Finding the right sized balls to replace the ones in the ballscrews is now my biggest problem.

[MichaelHenry]

I should restate that I have found that I have .007 - .008 backlash in my X axis.

After the adjusting the gibs and the thrust bearings I'm thinking it has to be down to the ballscrew. Even with less than 3000 hours on it. I had to replace the Z ballscrew at about 2000 hours. That was a little more obvious with little chrome bits in my way oil.

Spindle slop is also a possibility but I can't feel any.

That seems like a lot more than should be expected. A while back I traced a few thou of lost motion in the X-axis of my 1100 to a loose ball nut carrier on the X axis. The lost motion largely disappeared when the SHCS in the mounting block were tightened.

Attachment 307548

[LeeWay]

Here is another ball source, though I haven't ordered from them.
They can get you very close to 2.38 mm chrome steel balls. They also have .093" size. Those look like they are 10 cents each. Part number 37432.

Bal-tec

$20.00 minimum order.

[RickPflimlin]

That seems like a lot more than should be expected. A while back I traced a few thou of lost motion in the X-axis of my 1100 to a loose ball nut carrier on the X axis. The lost motion largely disappeared when the SHCS in the mounting block were tightened.

Attachment 307548

I read about someone else having that problem and wished I had checked when I had all the guards and covers off.

I will check that out but I will have a replacement on hand before I tear it down that far again. Maybe I can fish a long extension in there and check them?