[Ron2d]

I purchased a 3 Axis CNC Stepper Control Box, Digital Stepper Motor Driver, 110VAC/220VAC for my G0704 High-Torque Stepper Motor, Stepper Motor, Driver, Stepper Motor kit, DC Servo Motor, DC Servo Motor kit, Stepper Motor Power Supply, CNC Router, Spindle, and other Components. Stepper Motor | Stepper Motor Driver | CNC Router | Laser Machine | 3D Prin It has what appears to be a DB9 connector on the rear of the control box labeled limit switch. The control box is advertised as X, Y, Z limit switch wired.

I opened the control box and the following explains the wiring from the breakout board to the DB9 connector;

P13 connected to pin 1 on DB9 connector with a red wire

P12 connected to pin 4 with a black wire

P11 connected to pin 3 with a red wire

P10 wire connected to E-stop

P15 connected to pin 2 with a black wire

GND connected to pin 5 with a black wire

Nothing connected to pins 6 – 9 of the DB9 connector


Attachment 326796

BOB wiring diagram at the bottom of link: KL-DB25 Opto-Isolated Breakout Board Stepper Motor | Stepper Motor Driver | CNC Router | Laser Machine | 3D Printers For Sale

I want to utilize the following proximity switches for X, Y, Z

A60 - INDUCTIVE PROXIMITY SWITCH

How do I connect multiple switches to the DB9 connector on the back of the control box? I attempted to contact the company and post on their forum on this site without any answers. Thank you.

[Fastest1]

What is the problem? Did you look at the wiring diagram on the CNC4PC site?
The switch will run on 5-24v. The board is 5v. Should be a piece of cake.

Pins 10-13 are input pins.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ron2d]

What is the problem? Did you look at the wiring diagram on the CNC4PC site?
The switch will run on 5-24v. The board is 5v. Should be a piece of cake.

Pins 10-13 are input pins.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Like I said in my initial post, the BOB is already wired to a DB9 connection (maybe not the right name for the connection) on the back of the control box. It was purchased as a prewired setup/essentially plug and play. The problem is what will allow me to connect the switches to that existing connection? If the switches will have to be wired to the BOB, what is the point of the connection on the control box labeled limit switch if it can't be utilized as the connection point for switches?

[john-100]

Hi Ron2d

your BOB and proximity switches with PNP outputs are not the easiest combination get to to work together
the diagrams from Keling are for the C10 BOB with the jumper set to select pull down resistors on the inputs


without the circuit diagram of the KLDB25 or a board to examine I have to make a few assumptions

1) assuming the volt drop across the LED in the opto isolator is 2v
2) the LED's current limiting resistor is 300 ohms

there for when an input is grounded 10mA will pass through the LED
so the light the LED emits switches ON the NPN transistor inside the opto isolator - the transistor will then ground your PC's printer port input pin

since the A60 proximity switch PNP output is either connected to the positive supply or open circuit when the limit is detected


if you have the A60 switches one simple solution could be to add a 50 to 100 ohm resistor between the BOB's input and ground

when the switch output is open the current through the opto-isolators LED and the added 50 ohm resistor will be 8.5 mA and should be enough to switch the opto isolators NPN output ON

when the proximity switch connects the BOB's input to +5V a current of 100mA will flow through a 50 ohm pull down resistor to ground

connecting two or more proximity switches will need more thought as the minimum supply required by the proximity switches is 5V
depending on how many switches are wired in series the supply to the first switch needs to be high enough to ensure the last one in the chain works but care has to be taken not to pull the BOB's input higher than +5.5V !!!

John

[Ron2d]

Considerable differences (e.g., Fastest1 indicating this should be easy/piece of cake in comparison to john-100 who is describing a more complicated scenario is just one example) in-terms of wiring have made this part of the process frustrating to say the least. I purchased a prewired control box to avoid this type of hassle. I have multiple A60 proximity switches, but don't really know what approach to take now.

[john-100]

Hi Ron2d

what power supply has been fitted in your control box to supply the BOB's power to terminals VDD and GND ?

you may be able to add a wire to connect the positive supply to one of the unused pins on the DB9 connector to save having to use another supply for the proximity switches

then the only extras you need are the three pulldown resistors ( one for each axis - 51 or 56 ohms will be easier to find in the likes of Tandy/Radio Shack )


John


Attachment 326888



PS
C10 BOB wiring
(part of diagram from CNC4PC)

[Ron2d]

I was told to wire the A60 proximity switches in series based upon the following link as a reference. http://cnc4pc.com/Tech_Docs/A60_C10A.JPG My BOB is a KL-DB25 and not a C10. I went into ports and pins configuration of Mach 3: enabled homes for x, y, and z, made sure port number is correct, and entered appropriate pin number. Active low initially had x's for all three which resulted in yellow lights for M1home, M2home, and M3home in the diagnostics page of Mach to immediately light up, so put a check mark for all three active low which turned the yellow lights off. The proximity switches have their own light on each of them that remain lit until turning off when close to metal. However, upon testing the switches near metal no lights come on in the diagnostics page of Mach for M1home, etc. to indicate they are functioning correctly. For example, when the E-stop is pressed the respective red light on the diagnostic page lights up to indicate that function has occurred. What else should be checked and/or possibly changed? I am utilizing a UC100 USB motion controller if that matters. Any help would be appreciated.

[john-100]

Hi Ron2d

you do have a multimeter to check the voltage at the breakout boards inputs don't you ?

with one wire connecting the E-Stop to P10 and an another wire connecting the second E-stop terminal to GND
your meter should see the voltage between GND and input P10 switch between 0V and +4 to +5V
as you operate the E-Stop switch

with the limit switches / proximity switches operating correctly you should see the same change in voltage on the other inputs you have used

with micro switches connected between GND and an input its easy just copy how the E-Stop is wired but

with the PNP proximity switches it will only work when you add a pull down resistor as your BOB does not have that option - the C10 BOB does


PDF manual


John

PS
from the web
OK for microswitches




PPS
top of BOB PCB


possible circuit of 6 axis BOB - photos on web are not a higher enough resolution to be 100% sure

[Ron2d]

John, I appreciate you taking the time in an attempt to assist me. It sounds like micro switches would be a better option in-terms of ease of wiring and compatibility (i.e., not requiring resistors) with my BOB. I will probably just return them and purchase micro switches instead. Thanks again for your help.

[john-100]

Hi Ron2d

micro switches are the simple solution to get you going

at a later date you can always look again at using proximity switches

for you and any one else finding this thread

I have a two more diagrams for the KL-DB25 optically isolated Break Out Board



note - the 56 ohm resistors need to be 56ohm 1/2W
better still 56 ohm 1W


John