The first lasers are on their way. Here are some pictures for your enjoyment.
Very clean and very well designed...
Thanks for the update John. I was think us using this in a business and I do think it would need one of the certification marks that the ESA recognizes.
https://www.esasafe.com/electricalproducts/marks
Steve
Here is a Bodor video of the laser I purchased from Novakon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTkiGOEtN1M
MichaleHenry
Here is a video of the Bodor 40 watt mini laser in action.
It seems from what I can see is that Bodor carries the quality and materials they use on the big commercial machines down to the smaller units like ours.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5K8dfGMxan8
Michale
It is my understanding ( and I am still a total newb) that a 3d engraving operation is software driven using layers and altering the laser Power and speed between layers.
If you research RDworks videos there is a fellow from england named Russ that has a great series of video tutorials and how to's regarding the RD works software, it seems quite robust for a free included package.
here is a link to save you the search
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLSI...PPSpER6T1JZVcX
Ram98 - my understanding is that 3D engraving requires a power supply whose output can be varied continuously and fairly rapidly but that's just an inference. From what I've read, 3D engraving is not necessarily a standard laser feature and the generic K40 lasers are not 3D-capable as shipped. Still learning though, and hoping somebody hear knows for certain.
MichaelHenry you are correct in your understanding that a higher-powered laser tube will create a better 3D engraving. The Bodor 110w laser machines that Novakon is selling can do 3D engraving. The supplied RDWorks software allows you to use up to 256 shades of grey to create a bit mapped image. You enter a minimum and maximum power setting for the image. The RDWorks software than assigns an individual power level to each shade of grey that is in the image. The lighter pixels are assigned a lower power level and the darker pixels are assigned a higher power level. In other words, an image with sixteen shades of grey would have sixteen different laser power settings equally divided between the minimum and maximum power levels entered into the RDWorks software program.
The quality of the 3D engraving can vary greatly depending on the material being engraved. A 3D image engraved in MDF is usually poor quality. Different types of wood provide varying levels of quality. Search YouTube for videos relating to 3D laser engraving to obtain more information on this subject.
Hi Steve,
Depending on the application and where you want to install this, you can get a waiver for certain situations. I have seen this done with our mills. Having authority to connect to the grid is different than OSHA safety requirements. If it is just legally connecting to the grid, check with your local electrical contractor for the details. As far as I know, the lasers in this price range are not made in the USA and probably don't have any certifications.
If the application is a school or a government connection, it is more difficult to get approved but UL point of installation can be purchased. If it is for your own business startup, it much simpler, practically nonexistent.
Maybe this will help you in your research.
Regards,
John
FWIW, I used to work in a US government lab which got instruments from all over the world. Not infrequently, the equipment was not NRTL-listed so it had to be inspected by laboratory personnel that were trained and approved to do the inspections. That wasn't a huge deal and inspections frequently took a few hours or less. Perhaps Steve's employer has a similar program.
Hi John
Nice looking machine. I see it has a Reci tube. Does it also have a Reci "P" 'intelligent' power supply or is it a "DY" series? the DSP looks very similar to one I have although slightly different.
Im going to send you an email. I need to talk with you about a reci tube... Im in need of a little help.
remember anderson....?
Cheers! Rich
Hi Rick,
Sure has been a long time! I vaguely remembered that name, but now I will have to forget it again...
I got your email and now I better understand your situation. There are a lot of "fly by night" suppliers in China and you will get junk if they think it is a one time sale. My choice for selecting Bodor lasers came after looking at many factories and then making my decision. I do have an advantage of having an employee close to the factory and being able to screen the parts relatively easily. I will be stocking common parts soon for my model laser, and I can look into the power supply information with China tonight about your power supply problem. You are on the west coast so probably I can call you tonight before it is too late if I get a quick answer back.
We will talk soon.
Regards,
John
Thank you John, Appreciate it. I look forward to speaking with you. Sorry to stir the pot...LoL!! Just remember ber that there isn't much worth remembering!
An 80 watt tube will cut 3/4 plexi / acyrlic well. I suspect that a 110 watt tube will do an even better job.
Have you considered offering a 150-180 watt set up that will cut thin mild steel materials?
For those of you with Novakon's Bodor Lasers, have any of you changed out the Final focal point Lens from the standard?
Interested in the process to do that. We've taken the tube off of ours and it looks pretty easy to change, but obviously if you change the focal length, then the spacing that you adjust the red tube to the material is going to have to change.
Did you get a different tube?
What is the focal length of the standard lens?
Thanks in advance,
Scott...
Instructional Videos for CNC Guitar Building
http://www.rmgvideos.com
Scott
It is very easy to change from the supplied 63MM (2.5 in lens to the 101MM lens If you look at the tube, it is threaded on both ends the 101 mm lens installs in the opposit end of the tube.
it is a long thread you just remove the 63mm and insert the 101mm in the other end of the tube,
make sure the flat side of the lens if facing the work, drop in the o ring and screw the retaining ring down to snug the lens.
If you have any more questions or would like a pic or two for clarification let me know
Ray