[RicknBeachcrest]

Steve,

I think you will really like the Super PID. The only difficult part was mounting the speed sensor in the router. But after building your machine, this shouldn't be a problem.

This is the latest screen set that you posted about 2 1/2 years ago. Screen4 is from ArtSoft.

Mach3 continues to amaze. It gives you the everything and the kitchen sink and then allows you to pick and choose what you want to use.

[Senna]

Rick... that screen never went into use... I continued to tweak things and arrived at the attached screen.

I've been pouring over the msimpson20175 vids on youtube and his Kronos website page as well as the SuperPid 2 info to prepare for the install. Seems straightforward enough as far as I'm setting things up.

The enclosure and faceplate layout will probably take the most time. That and placement of the unit... since I went manual I'll want it readily accessible.

Mach 3 has NEVER given me a glitch... all faux paux's during machining have been self inflicted... and the SuperPid 2 will go a long way to eliminate those...!

If you ever upgrade do yourself a favor and include an Auto Z function AND go with a cabled OR wireless game controller for a poor mans MPG. I can send you my Z script which has been proven bulletproof in the years time I've been using it...!

[RicknBeachcrest]

Steve,
That is a nice clean screen layout you came up with. Do you use feed rate override very often? I think I will make some small modifications to the standard screen (take out flood and some other things I will never use) and then as I get more use on my machine, continue to make changes.

I was on youtube looking at the videos from Kronos and then noticed all the videos on the Super PID. Wow sure a lot of them. This one looked good.
Super Pid Installation Video - YouTube

Thanks for all your help.
Rick

[mike2768]

I would love to see a little video of how you scan the part and tweak it in the software. Is this something you could do.

[Senna]

I would love to see a little video of how you scan the part and tweak it in the software. Is this something you could do.

I have the video capability... actually have a HD vid cam and my Canon Rebel also records vids... but I've never been successful with uploading to YouTube etc. I'm just too busy to apply the time to learn.

I have a couple of knives that I will be developing in the next few weeks... I can attempt to do pics that show the process...???

[mike2768]

I have the video capability... actually have a HD vid cam and my Canon Rebel also records vids... but I've never been successful with uploading to YouTube etc. I'm just too busy to apply the time to learn.

I have a couple of knives that I will be developing in the next few weeks... I can attempt to do pics that show the process...???

Ok really info you can forward along would be great. I have a cnc router just sitting. Cutting a few things for friends. I would really like to put it to work if you what mean.

[Senna]

Steve,
That is a nice clean screen layout you came up with. Do you use feed rate override very often? I think I will make some small modifications to the standard screen (take out flood and some other things I will never use) and then as I get more use on my machine, continue to make changes.

I was on youtube looking at the videos from Kronos and then noticed all the videos on the Super PID. Wow sure a lot of them. This one looked good.
Super Pid Installation Video - YouTube

Thanks for all your help.
Rick

On the feed override... I do use it frequently. Most always due to the oversight while coding and forgetting to modify the tool database speed and feed. MOST always I'm ticking it down... but sometimes I see that a process could take some additional feed. The machine usually tells me when I've got it wrong. There is a certain sound the machine makes when happy and that's typically the tip off. No happy noise... something is not right! You'll get to that point... I guarantee it!

I hope you're in the 'having fun' part now...!
Steve

[RicknBeachcrest]

Rick... that screen never went into use... I continued to tweak things and arrived at the attached screen.

If you ever upgrade do yourself a favor and include an Auto Z function AND go with a cabled OR wireless game controller for a poor mans MPG. I can send you my Z script which has been proven bulletproof in the years time I've been using it...!

Hi Steve,
Could you please tell me what the top line (see attached screen shot) is? I should probably know. I went through the Mach3 manual and nothing popped out at me.

Thanks.

Rick

Ps. I definitely plan on using a game controller for an mpg in the future, but I think I should get a few miles on my machine first.

[gigjoec]

steve,
thank you for the USMC file......
have you added the super pid yet ?, if so how is it ?,
love the knife sides ?, i think i like the usmc and punisher the best................. have you thought of doing one with the punisher and the USMC ?, do you make knife kits or just the handles ?. awesome work.
if your ever passing through on I-5 on your way to seattle i live 1 mile off of I-5 in woodland will gladly buy you a Cup of Coffee or favorate adult beverage...
exit 21 look for the OAK TREE restuant sign
thanks again
joe

[pippin88]

Hi Steve,
Could you please tell me what the top line (see attached screen shot) is? I should probably know. I went through the Mach3 manual and nothing popped out at me.

Thanks.

Rick

Ps. I definitely plan on using a game controller for an mpg in the future, but I think I should get a few miles on my machine first.

Those are active gcodes. Specifying units, absolute vs relative and similar things.

[Senna]

steve,
thank you for the USMC file......
have you added the super pid yet ?, if so how is it ?,
love the knife sides ?, i think i like the usmc and punisher the best................. have you thought of doing one with the punisher and the USMC ?, do you make knife kits or just the handles ?. awesome work.
if your ever passing through on I-5 on your way to seattle i live 1 mile off of I-5 in woodland will gladly buy you a Cup of Coffee or favorate adult beverage...
exit 21 look for the OAK TREE restuant sign
thanks again
joe

Hey Joe,

I hope you were successful with that USMC EPS file... I tried to make it as easy for you as I could... the one shot v-carve CALCULATE OR two shots if you went with the carved continents in the globe.

I'm still awaiting delivery from down under of my SuperPID 2. I tried tracking the thing with the supplied number but that proved fruitless. So the ONLY time I'll know where it is... is when it gets HERE...!

I've not even thought to combine the Eagle Globe and Punisher... would doing so be a sacrilege...??? That's an awfully large fraternity to piss off...! AND I'm just talking about the PUNISHER fanatics...!!!! LOL!!! I don't do kits... on occasion I do offer complete knives but mostly I do scales (handles).

Thanks for the nice comment and beverage offer...!

Steve

[gigjoec]

any update on the SUPER PID ?........ i'm getting almost to the point where i can order that next

[Senna]

I did get my SuperPID2... I opened the box... inspected the contents and that's it. I'm just too busy with orders to take my router offline at this point in time. OH... I also watched a couple of YouTube vids that detailed the Hitachi M12VC modification for the optical sensor install. That looks easy enough... so its mainly an enclosure, heat sink, and faceplate project... BUT I'm not certain just when things might slow to the point that I can get onto that...

[Senna]

Latest bit of knife bling... OD green G10 scales in the Tribal Skulls design on an Emerson Commander...

[RicknBeachcrest]

The next project on the punch list was the dust shoe. I'm on the 6th or 7th iteration presently after trying a multitude of materials for the containment skirting. I have nothing but good to say about Kent CNC Split Shoe... KentCNC. Dust Shoes & Accessories... however... his development of that particular design is geared toward the industrial 4" system... NOT a 2-1/4" shopvac system. So... I based my design loosely on Kent's removable brush and attempted to optimize the lower vacuum draw the smaller shopvac's develop.

The typical design of having a plate clamped to the router body with a vacuum inlet juxtaposed and the containment area of brush or skirt encompassing not only the vacuum inlet but also the router bit is just too optimistic for a shopvac. Having a directed vacuum draw focused at or centralized upon the router bit would be optimum. This would involve the necessity of a vacuum body to focus the draw at the bit or even better... surround the bit.

My attempt to create this directed vacuum was to make a 2 piece clamshell vacuum body having a tunnel that goes from the hose inlet to a surrounding ring chamber encompassing the router bit. I then created a reducer ring to neck the ring chambers diameter down to a 2-1/4" exit. Anecdotally this necking back down to the smaller dia exit created a greater drawing power or vacuum effort at the bit. I made the outside diameter of the reducer ring large enough so that the skirt material length when folded inward toward the router bit cannot contact the bit. I hope that makes sense...!

The material I ended up using for the skirt was cut from an old wetsuit I no longer could wear and had hanging in the closet at the forgotten end of the rack! It's 1/8" neoprene with a nylon outer shell. The skirt length is 1-1/2" and has the typical finger cuts. I created a 1/8" wide dado kerf about 1/2" deep on the bottom of the reducer ring. I then doubled up about 1/4" of the skirt top edge and jammed it into the kerf. It looks nicely finished and works great.

I test cut a MDF plaque and it works really well! There was no additional vacuuming of escapees required once the file was finished cutting!!!

There is one additional benefit of this shoe design. On the Hitachi M12VC router the cooling air exhausts from vents in the routers cast body straight down. This issue is overcome by the installation of a deflector plate. The deflector plate no matter how efficient interrupts the free air exhaust and causes the router to run slightly warmer than it would without the plate in place. With this new vacuum body dust shoe design the lower portion of the router body and thus the exhaust air is exiting into the vacuum ring chamber I created. I'm not certain but I believe the vacuum draw is greater in velocity than the router cooling air exhaust so that additional air is being pulled thru the router when in operation. I base this on the fact that after a 50 min run to test the system... the router body wasn't warm at all... it was ambient room temperature... hence the added benefit I mentioned.

Slowly I'm getting things checked off the list. The dust shoe is working great... so it is officially OFF the punch list!!!

Steve

Hi Steve,
I'm sure you have been busy with your machine.

I am to the point where I need to make an attachment for the shopvac. I have been studying yours. It looks like a solid design. Do you have any last comments before I start on mine?
As always thanks for all your help.
Rick

[Senna]

Rick...

I'm still totally sold on my dust shoe design AND in fact still using the MDF MK1 version. I never got around to machining another out of HDMW. My dust system of the tunnel shoe AND the cyclone perform exceptionally well... so much so that I need only inspect and clean the shop vac filter once or twice a year. I'm going to guess but I'd estimate that 100% of the heavies and less than 1% of the fines find their way past the cyclone and into the shop vac... it's that efficient! As you know I'm working with G10 almost exclusively... and that stuff when machined has a large amount of powdered fines that you do not want laying about or airborne in the shop. I've recently gone with a direct exhaust to the outdoors with the shop vac. Previous to this the shop vac exhausted into the shop environ and I don't know if you are familiar with the odor of G10 when machined... but it is quite objectional and very pungent. Direct outdoor exhausting has eliminated that completely. I still wear my 3M full face cartridge respirator however the pervasive burnt electrical odor that used to linger in the shop has been eliminated.

A dust shoe is a good addition... a cyclone & tunnel dust shoe is the ticket...!

Enjoy you fruits of labor...!
Steve

[NSR_CIVIC]

I have to ask. Where do u sell these awesome knives! I have a friend that is a knife collector and he would love a custom one in his collection..

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Tapatalk 4

[Senna]

I have to ask. Where do u sell these awesome knives! I have a friend that is a knife collector and he would love a custom one in his collection..

Thanks for the nice compliment!

For the most part I do scale and back spacer sets that the knife owners themselves do the swapping out. On occasion I'll have a knife that I modify on spec and sell primarily on the knife forums I subscribe to. I don't have a web page as this is hobbyist level participation... not a business.

Steve

[RicknBeachcrest]

Rick...

I'm still totally sold on my dust shoe design AND in fact still using the MDF MK1 version. I never got around to machining another out of HDMW. My dust system of the tunnel shoe AND the cyclone perform exceptionally well... so much so that I need only inspect and clean the shop vac filter once or twice a year. I'm going to guess but I'd estimate that 100% of the heavies and less than 1% of the fines find their way past the cyclone and into the shop vac... it's that efficient! As you know I'm working with G10 almost exclusively... and that stuff when machined has a large amount of powdered fines that you do not want laying about or airborne in the shop. I've recently gone with a direct exhaust to the outdoors with the shop vac. Previous to this the shop vac exhausted into the shop environ and I don't know if you are familiar with the odor of G10 when machined... but it is quite objectional and very pungent. Direct outdoor exhausting has eliminated that completely. I still wear my 3M full face cartridge respirator however the pervasive burnt electrical odor that used to linger in the shop has been eliminated.

A dust shoe is a good addition... a cyclone & tunnel dust shoe is the ticket...!

Enjoy you fruits of labor...!
Steve

Hi Steve,
I am still working on my dust shoe. End of summer projects keep getting in the way. I sure am ready for winter and some in the shop time.

The way I have my router (spindle) in the mount is causing design problems. If I mount something under the lower clamp, I cannot gain access to the top nut (for changing bits). I would really like to mount it between the two clamps, but this is proving problematic.

I guessing that when you remove the removable portion of your dust shoe, that you are able to change bits easily? There is no easy way for me to lower my router (spindle) in the clamps.

Thanks for all your help.
Rick

[Senna]

Rick...

A solution MIGHT be to go with something like the quick-change MUSCLECHUCK. Quick Change Router Chuck - Dewalt - Porter Cable - Festool - Hitachi - Bosch - Makita - Trend - Feud - Fein - Metabo - Carvewright - Camless Router Chuck - High Speed Chuck - Precision Chuck - Wood Working Chuck - Router Accessories - Eliminator - D

It adds a 1/2" of length and takes a slight turn of a hex wrench for bit changes. I have no idea if it would fit your particular router... but they do fit a good number of different routers. I believe I saw them in the latest ROCKLER catalog. No more knowledge than that. I still use the two wrench nut system...

My dust shoe is a slip fit clam shell where the entire lower portion slips out of the attachment which gives access to the nut and shaft.

I'm still having a ball makin' the knife scales!!!
Steve